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Women's tailoring

Ladies garments

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#1 creatieve mie

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 04:23 PM

I have been reading this forum for quite some time now and wonder if any of you can help.I mainly sew for myself but find it very difficult to find much references for ladies tailoring.I am specifically interested in the making up of garments,since drafting for myself is a whole different talent and very hard to achieve properly.Since many of the uploaded files seem not to be available anymore(I keep getting some photobucket announcement)could you please help me out?
Which books do you really feel are of interest to me and can be acquired?
The rundschau books are very expensive,are they worth the money?
The Cabrera book is on my wishlist,any other books to buy?
I don't mind if there are men's chapters as well but I have found that in making up garments there definitely is a difference.
Thank you for the loads of information I have found so far on this forum.
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#2 Learner

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 05:39 PM

I'd say that, outside of this forum, there's far more information about ladies' tailoring than there is for men's.  I don't think that the Cabrera book is a particularly outstanding work; it's simply the case that very few alternatives exist which focus on men's tailoring.  

 

Most of the information that is on this forum can still be viewed via the Internet archive Wayback Machine.  For example, this thread can be viewed here.



#3 peterle

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 07:07 PM

It depends on wich kind of clothing you want to make. There is a lot more info for making dresses and such things out there.

 

A bit more difficult is getting info for constructed jackets in the manner of men´s jackets. I can´t help with english literature but  as I own a German edition I can recommend the Time life book on classical Tailoring from 1974. ( in German it´s called "der klassische Schnitt" out of the series "Die hohe Schule der Handarbeit").

 

Update:

Just found it in English: "Basic Tailoring" out of the series " The Art of Sewing:

 

https://www.amazon.c...ZXJKRJBKEAVVC7E


Edited by peterle, 05 October 2017 - 07:14 PM.

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#4 creatieve mie

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 08:54 PM

It is indeed information on jackets and coat construction I am mainly looking for,skirts and dresses you can find more information of.Thank you so far for the tip

#5 peterle

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 10:32 PM

It is indeed information on jackets and coat construction I am mainly looking for,skirts and dresses you can find more information of.Thank you so far for the tip

 

Well, then "Basic Tailoring" is the right for You. It focuses only on jackets and trousers for men and women. And it´s  sold usually for a  very reasonable price.


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#6 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 10:33 PM

Do you read German?

 

I have found the Rundschau books to be wonderful. But you need to be able to get into them, i.e. read them.

 

There are very many forums on construction, drafting and fitting women's garments, even coats and jackets.

 

But if you are asking here it must be that there is something here you like, I wonder what that is? 

 

That's not a rude question but the answer might help find what you are looking for.


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#7 creatieve mie

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 02:48 AM

Yes,the basic German language I can read,it might take me a while to get used to the technical language but it isn't impossible.
The reason I keep returning here is,and I do not wish to insult anyone,that I feel most sewing forums focus mainly on doing things fast and easy,taking shortcuts whenever they can,and seem to have forgotten how to take time for certain details.
I have done so for many years and there seems to always be something missing.
Now,taking my time and paying attention to every detail,it does make a difference but sadly,lots of sewing knowledge seems to have been forgotten.I like the classic styles with its crisp lines and timeless beauty,I guess this it what attracts me to this forum.
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#8 greger

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 04:31 AM

There are several books you can download. Poulin's 1973 has some women's stuff in the back. His older book has some useful information about adjusting patterns. Jane Rhinehart wrote a book that has some useful information. As a boy I learned to tie the end threads together instead of extra stitches. Her book explains how to do this. Tieing off makes the garment more supple, which is more comfortable. There are some other books that explain hand sewing. Poulins tells some. Good hand sewing comes in handy. My grandfather believed complete handsewn garments were by far the most luxurious, which I agree. Cheaper garments the sewing machine is fine, and has its own skills. Handsewn stitches are loose to prevent strain on the cloth and thread, but tight enough not to be able to be snagged. You could say that the cloths are "hung" together. They use a lot of basting stitches and sometimes pins. Skimp here and quality is way lower. 


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#9 pfaff260

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 05:43 AM

Here are 2 little books that might be helpfull:

https://www.scribd.c...Women-s-Jackets

 

and

 

https://books.google...iloring&f=false


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#10 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 09:49 AM

Well, sounds virtually, exactly like many of us then :)

 

I would agree with Pfaff260, Tho those books also present difficulties to view.

 

Although I bet the principal difference that you are looking for will be in Drafting and Fitting, it seems, from your initial comment that it's Construction that you are asking about.

 

These have been recommended before but if you are considering things specifically for women then it's easy to pick these books up from abebooks:

 

Lucielle Milani - Tailoring the Easy Way. (its old enough to still contain good details)

 

Samuel Heath - Coat and Skirt Making (also quite detailed, more traditional skills discussed)

 

To help with any Rundschau or other German stuff which, you know, still represents a living professional System of Tailoring:

 

Wilfried Schierbaum - Bekleidungs Lexikon

 

There is lots and lots tucked away in the forum. Many of us will have spent hours and hours searching through.

 

G


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#11 Steelmillal

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 07:41 PM

The bibliography for ladies tailiring and book writeups is what you need.

Books I have, Heath, '74 Basic Tailoring, Allyne Bane, Clair Shaeffer, etc

For ease of acquisition, Ms. Schaefer and Ms. Bane books. They'll be immediately available as shelf items to benefit. The older books can be expensive and rare, but worth it when actually needed.
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#12 tailoress

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Posted 07 October 2017 - 09:29 PM

Vintage Couture Tailoring by Thomas von Nordheim is a really excellent book for constructing women's tailored jackets. 


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#13 Mammothy

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 05:39 AM

I do think that you may perhaps like some of the Craftsy courses. Or perhaps via Youtube:

 

Silhouette Patterns Webcast - Jacket Sew A Long (Part 1)

 

 

There is so much great material out there, just start looking for it and you got it :)

Please post your results.


Edited by Mammothy, 08 October 2017 - 05:46 AM.

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#14 Mammothy

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 05:42 AM

Vintage Couture Tailoring by Thomas von Nordheim is a really excellent book for constructing women's tailored jackets. 

 

It's even available on Kindle... Thanks


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#15 SPOOKIETOO

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 01:07 PM

Cabrera and Von Nordheim are probably the easiest, most reasonably priced books to buy for a starting point. they both stress actual tailoring methods and can function as a good basic reference.

 

There is so much to know regarding tailoring that a single volume will never hold all of the answers. This website and numerous videos posted by actual trained professionals on sites like Youtube are all good additional resources. Rory Duffy and Des Merrion have extremely informative videos. Jeffrey Diduch's blog, TuttoFattoaMano, has a wealth of information regarding techniques demonstrated through "disections" of various tailored garments.

 

Of course all of the methods are demonstrated for menswear but most also apply to women's. It is the fitting process that is difficult to address.  I have come to understand that our bodies vary so very much, it again would be difficult to address all possible issues in a single volume,or ten - and then what would be the price?

 

As for home sewing experts, I have several books from both Claire Shaeffer and David Page Coffin. Both are continuing students of the industry and neither takes the "Its sew easy approach" - opting instead for quality and professional results.  While I may on occasion watch or read other home sewing experts I have found all of them sorely lacking in true tailoring skills. They may have an occasional helpful tip, but all try to shorten and "dumb down" the process as far as I can tell and often present "homemade" looking garments as samples. Personally, that's a look I try to avoid.

 

If I could afford Rundschau, that's how I would proceed.


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#16 posaune

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 05:31 PM

In Rundschau there is mostly patternmaking not the how to contruct and sew.
In the moment Susanne Hirt, Swiss, (https://www.facebook...susanne.hirt)is writing very usefull articles maybe 1 a year about the know how.
this month how to sew an egg shaped coat:
http://www.trendschn...alle-kategorien
she takes you through all the steps.
But she uses modern methods with stuff you can buy today.
If you are interested you can buy the issue Damenrundschau 10/2017
lg
posaune
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#17 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 11:55 PM

See that there is a space missing in the facebook address:

 

It should read - https://www.facebook.com/susanne.hirt

 

G


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#18 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 07:04 AM

I'll weight in here, for women's tailoring, in my opinion the best two are Samuel Heath (73 ed for imperial and the 80's ed for metric) and The art of tailoring from Esmode http://www.esmod-edi...ing-c2x14246445
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