I have a few questions about women's tailoring based on your book, which I enjoy very much.
The first thing that struck me was the way you describe interfacing for the entire front panel, as well as back and side panel. This is something that I have seen called "underlying". That is you cut interfacing using the coat pattern, and then once the panels are underlined they are handled as a single piece for the rest of the making up. This is something never done in men's tailoring. Is underlying done only because women tend to choose cloths that are too light for traditional tailoring methods to handle? Or do women demand that their lounge jackets looks so immaculately clean that even a 18 Oz suiting is underlined to make the coat even cleaner? Otherwise, when do they decide to underline a fabric or not? Also, what sort of underlying is used - linen, wool/horsehair canvas etc?
The next question I have is about the technique of quilting the canvas. Quliting is a very old fashion technique that has largely died in men's tailoring. They use to quilt dress coats and frock coats. The results often looked like this:
This comes from a Victorian frock coat in the Victoria and Albert Museum. Whife describes this technique for dress coats as recently as 1962. Often the entire front panel was quilted like this. However, the chest piece and lapels were first pad stitched, then covered over in domette before being quilted on the lining (Whife, The Art of Garment Making, 1962).
In your book you talk about how the canvas is quilted in the area over the haircloth chest piece and corresponding shoulder piece in the upper part of the back panels. No pad stitching is described or shown over the chest piece. How common is it in women's tailoring to use quilting stitches in place of the traditional pad stitches in men's tailoring. Are the quilting stitches done by hand? How closely quilted is the canvas? And, why are the pad stitches omitted?
Cutting canvas on the bias. This is my third question to you. Your diagrams seem to show the canvas being cut on the bias. This, again, is rather uncommon in men's tailoring - but not unheard of. Whife describes it in the soft tailoring of drape cut coat:http://www.cutterand...hp?showtopic=42
Most men's tailor's prefer to cut the canvas on the straight. What is the rationale for cutting canvas on the bias in women's tailoring?
For all of those interested the book can be purchased here:http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/1561584975