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Mary Frittolini: Hand-sewn hem.

Mary Frittolini shirts hand-sewn shirts bespoke shirts shirt hems

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#1 tailleuse

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 05:39 AM

I haven't been that happy with my shirt hems in the past.  I bought a special foot, but did not like the results.  The next time, I may try the ban-rol * method or doing it by hand like this.

 

 

 

 

 

*Although this link is to a home sewer's pattern site, a very experienced individual who works in the garment industry described it to me. It's not just a home sewer's technique. (Some of the professionals here get upset if home sewing methods are discussed.)


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#2 greger

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 05:52 AM

She made a jig out of ban-rol.
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#3 Henry Hall

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 08:13 AM

That ban-rol (which I've never seen before) method is actually quite good. Probably more tricky on a curved shirt hem, but I'd give it a go. 

 

I've tried lots of ways including pressing, and using a glue stick. I've never managed that hemming foot. I have the idea that I was using the wrong one.


Edited by Henry Hall, 17 June 2015 - 01:47 AM.

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#4 posaune

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 04:37 PM

I do it quick and dirty:
I serge the hem with very thin thread and the serger presser set so that it eases in .
I fold along the stitches and I sew this down with 6 mm stiches (which I remove later)and then fold it over and sew again (2.5 mm).
Fine baby hem and it shows a nice curve.
lg
posaune
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#5 tailleuse

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 09:39 PM

I do it quick and dirty:
I serge the hem with very thin thread and the serger presser set so that it eases in .
I fold along the stitches and I sew this down with 6 mm stiches (which I remove later)and then fold it over and sew again (2.5 mm).
Fine baby hem and it shows a nice curve.
lg
posaune

 

I know that method, too, although I learned it without the serger step.  It's a common method, but I felt I should be able to do it without laying down the 1/4" (6.35mm) line as a guide.  In addition, my fabric would sometimes curl up or I had insufficient control on the industrial to get a perfect 1/4" line.I probably could do it now.


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#6 tailleuse

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 09:39 PM

She made a jig out of ban-rol.

 

Yes. I hadn't thought of it in those terms, but that is what it is.


Edited by tailleuse, 17 June 2015 - 03:53 AM.

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#7 R.m.Bakker

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Posted 24 June 2015 - 01:40 AM

lol, that ban-rol is pretty damn genius.

 

hemming foot never worked for me neither so i just roll it by hand and blindstitch it, much the very same way mary frittolini does it..


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#8 greger

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Posted 24 June 2015 - 09:13 AM

Mom had a blindstitch method on her home sewing machine. I think it was a zigzag stitch where every 4th stitch went out a hair further.
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