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#127 benjaminh

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Posted 24 August 2018 - 09:42 AM

Dark cloth does not show details.

It is best, when learning, to use lighter cloths.

On this screen, in this thread, the pictures are useless.

From what I've read it sounds like you've got a nice shirt coming along.

 

Yes I realize now that dark cloth isn't ideal. On my moniter, though, I can still quite easily see the issues: multiple tight small folds at the lower half of the back sleevecap, and larger twisting folds on the front. I guess it depends on your monitor. Next time I'll know better to get a lighter cloth...


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#128 greger

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Posted 24 August 2018 - 01:18 PM

Don't even have a computer connected to the internet, or even set up otherwise.

The tablet, well, I don't even know how to adjust for contrast.

Maybe in the near future I'll have a worthwhile computer.

It's nice to see people come here to learn.

There are better places for in depth learning. And rightfully, they demand pay.



#129 posaune

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Posted 26 August 2018 - 03:42 AM

Hi Benjamin,

I'm back from Holiday. Oh oh a sick sleeve again -no progress here.

 

For me the sleeve draft looks "normal" (has a full cap) and your armhole as far as I can see too.

You must take out the sleeve and please sew a vertical white line from shoulder notch to hem and a horizontal from front to back direct at widest part under the cap. So we can see how the sleeve falls. (In back it sits (besides some little folds) relatively ok. I think you could shape a bit at the lower cap. But we will see this after we can see the grain.)

And please we need to see your ear and your hand. So we can check the shoulder point and where the sleeve sits at the arm.

 

If you think it is twisted, try following: You rotate the whole sleeve (for start) 1 cm to the front. Means the sideseam of the sleeve is now moved 1 cm forward and the notch at the shoulderpoint sits1 cm to the back. Not on shoulderseam!. It is worth and quickly done. I do not think that is the case but ......... This will bring the sleeve mor forward.

lg

posaune



#130 benjaminh

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Posted 27 August 2018 - 11:40 AM



Hi Benjamin,

I'm back from Holiday. Oh oh a sick sleeve again -no progress here.

 

For me the sleeve draft looks "normal" (has a full cap) and your armhole as far as I can see too.

You must take out the sleeve and please sew a vertical white line from shoulder notch to hem and a horizontal from front to back direct at widest part under the cap. So we can see how the sleeve falls. (In back it sits (besides some little folds) relatively ok. I think you could shape a bit at the lower cap. But we will see this after we can see the grain.)

And please we need to see your ear and your hand. So we can check the shoulder point and where the sleeve sits at the arm.

 

If you think it is twisted, try following: You rotate the whole sleeve (for start) 1 cm to the front. Means the sideseam of the sleeve is now moved 1 cm forward and the notch at the shoulderpoint sits1 cm to the back. Not on shoulderseam!. It is worth and quickly done. I do not think that is the case but ......... This will bring the sleeve mor forward.

lg

posaune

 

Posaune, great to have you back! I've taken your advice and sewn the requested lines, then reset the sleeve as it was originally, without any rotation. I tried rotating it prior to sewing the lines in, but it didn't seem to help.

 

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Edited by benjaminh, 27 August 2018 - 11:41 AM.

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#131 posaune

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Posted 28 August 2018 - 03:11 AM

Fine, no twisting to see in the sleeve. The folds originate from a low cap height. I think adding 1.5 cm will do the job. If you do not want to change your ease you have now the sleeve will be a bit tighter. Or you cut down the sleeve a bit. (quick and dirty). In the back we see a fold where there should none so big in the bodice. That is welcomed in an overcoat. Here you can round out the armhole a bit more. A shirt has a little drape but it should be functional. The back isa bit too wide at the lower armhole in my opinion.

lg

posaune


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#132 benjaminh

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Posted 30 August 2018 - 02:22 AM

Thanks for the input, posaune. Could you explain what you mean by cutting down the sleeve? How much ease is about max for a sleeve like this? It is a little as is, I'd rather the sleeve be looser. I'm on holidays currently so I can't work on this shirt for the next week and a half.

#133 posaune

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Posted 30 August 2018 - 10:12 PM

http://www.mediafire...height.pdf/file

 

the ease depends on your fabric. If it is a stiff popline you will not have much fun to get it in. 2 % is doable. In a wool you can do about 10% easily.

have nice holiday.

lg posaune


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#134 benjaminh

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Posted 13 September 2018 - 01:24 PM

OK, I'm back. Here are some pics with the sleeve cap height increased by 1.5cm, and the lower back armhole scooped about 1cm deeper.

 

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2ylcf4otwsj2mv74g.jpg



#135 posaune

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 10:03 PM

hell, a bit better but only a bit. What is your feeling??

The sleeve is still pushing the fabric of the shirt. But....

so I would test it.

When you pin out a fold about 1.5 cm content at the back down near the back hole (start with 0 at shoulder) - changed to better or worse?

You open the seam front and back at the lower half of the sleeve. And you look how the sleeve settles. Does it drop under the armpit of the shirt.

when you rotate the sleeve a bit - say 1cm to the front - what are the folds at back are doing?

Here I'm at the end of my latin.

I suggest to take a real shirt fabric (NOT black) and start a new project. Make the Bb about 1 cm wider (half pattern) , back 0.5 cm smaller, and make all the alteration we have done so far. This shirt ist meant to wear, so do  seam allowances about 3 cm (you can cut that back to 1.5 cm) but better save then sorry.

lg

posaune






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