[Der Zuschneider]

Unfortunately an article in German only. But it explains wearing an unfashionable suit.
I like this article cause it brakes the rule of wearing a sloppy long Coat Sakko with 84cm length instead of 78, going back to tradition.
And I was thinking already I am unfashionable...

Maybe someone with good English can translate it.

Danger in the suit

[Sator]

I am all for the idea of tasteful and elegant fashion. However, the "designer" they interviewed probably can't really cut or tailor. This is what he seems to recommend that the modern businessman wear:





The coat fits poorly and is so tight you see strong X shaped creases. The extreme short length of the trousers would only be the subject of ridicule. The length of the coat is short to the point that it looks like a ladies' monkey jacket.

A tailor advising a businessman on how to look professional yet modern would never advise a client to dress like that by saying that "Mode hat auch immer mit Mut zu tun" (fashion has always had to do with courage).

[Sator]

"Mode hat immer auch etwas mit Mut zu tun"

[Kevin Koch]

That is hilarious, Sator!




I did not read the German article, so I can not comment specifically about that. I was taught the object of the runway has always been to push fashion in a particular direction by displaying the extreme. No (sensible) person is to emulate a runway look in everyday wear, but rather be persuaded toward a change in the current style or to suggest variations on the same (the designer hopes). In this case, closer fit, clean lines, a reverse in sagging trouser lengths, etc.



I agree that this look should not leave the house as is (unless on his way to fire his tailor). As for the "tutu-suit"... it looks like two couturiers had a fight backstage and the unfortunate model got caught in the middle.

This post has been edited by Kevin Koch: 11 March 2010 - 06:00 AM

[Der Zuschneider]

Yeah, the picture is ridiculous. Trousers are too short. If the suit is his making, then this is even more danger for the wearer.
But in the 60thies the coats were shorter and the trousers as well, but not so terrible like in the picture.
The suit in the picture is a punishment!

[Sator]

I was just thinking about that article in which the designer basically saws that even people who wear classical business dress should still be fashion conscious because little things change - lapels become narrower, coat lengths become shorter, and trousers are worn shorter. Next thing, the article shows this picture allong with the battle cry that "fashion has always had to do with courage":



I wonder if the designer interviewed chose that picture (by Joop), or if the journalist writing the article choose it? Either way, what, when taken in moderation, is not unreasonable advice has been severely undermined with one silly picture that said a thousand unwanted things to make a mockery of it.

[hymo]

Oh I find the article to be thoughtful and far more nuanced than your typical "Stilratgeber". The picture is an abberation and could not have been selected by the author. Far more likely selected by the magazine staff. The article says the trouser hem is not to touch the heel -- everybody in Germany believes they should -- he did not say they should hang several inches in the air.