The Cutter and Tailor: Trivial Per-suit - The Cutter and Tailor

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Trivial Per-suit

#1 User is offline   Kevin Koch 

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 11:16 AM

When I learned drafting we started with a perpendicular center back line (to the draftsman) and placed the top to the right and the coat/vest/trouser bottom to our left. The books we referred to always showed the front on the left and the back on the right (as you look at the page). I was surprised, when I began following this forum to see that the other systems, and especially MTOC, were the opposite (old dog learning new tricks here). Is this an American/British difference?

Also, do many of you draft directly to fabric? My master tailor did, but that is one thing he never taught me before he died and I really never paid much attention when he did that (don't hit me!).
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#2 User is offline   Der Zuschneider 

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 01:27 PM

It doesn't matter if you start from left to right or from right to left.

In order to draft directly on the fabric you need a lot of experience. You also need a few fittings cause drawing directly on the fabric is not exact enough.
I would not even draft on the fabric, drafting on the paper gives you more room to think about the curves and posture of a body. The paper model can be easily adapted for the posture. Drafting directly on fabric also only makes sense on uni color fabric without stripes.

First learn drafting on paper, that is more fun.

When your tailor didn't explain the drafting don't worry he didn't have time to explain his 40years experience cause you didn’t ask target questions.
It is time for you to develop your own style now, there are plenty of ideas in the forum to be found.
"Kinder betet! Der Vater schneidet zu."
"Children pray! Father is cutting."

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#3 User is offline   jcsprowls 

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 01:59 PM

Agreed. It doesn't matter which side you draft from. Just be consistent. I always draft mens from the left side of the body. And, women's from the right side. It's much easier to sort hard patterns if you stay consistent with the drafting method.
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#4 User is online   jukes 

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 04:29 PM

I draft direct on the cloth most of the time, depending on configuration. Over the years i have switched from drafting the back first, i now start with the forepart for a jacket / coat. I can also get a tighter lay this way.

This post has been edited by jukes: 10 March 2010 - 04:32 PM

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