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The Rundschau System for Body Coats


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#1 Sator

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 07:20 AM

The Rundschau System for Cutting a Body Coat Sloper (Der Zuschnitt XVI ca.1959)

First, the Rundschau measurement chart:

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The example they use is a morning coat (ein Cut in German), but the main difference between body coats lies mostly in the style of the skirt. The resulting pattern can be used as the sloper upon which to base other styles of body coat eg dress coat, frock coat, or mess jacket. Cutlänge means "length of the morning coat", but I have translated it simply as "total length of coat". The morning coat is worn as part of formal morning dress:

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The Foundations

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W/b/L Start square here
W-b Back neck = 7.8cm
h-H Displace upwards by 2.5cm
W-H Draw in neck seam
W-Rh Back depth of scye + 1cm = 24.5cm (addition to the straight line of the line of the armscye depth)
W-T Length of waist
W-L Full length of coat = 110cm
Join Rh, T, L
T-T1 Centre of back normally 2cm
L-L1 Centre of back normally 2cm
W/T1/L1 Draw in centre back seam
R-Rb Back width = 20.2cm
Rb-At Calculated armscye diameter = 17cm (ease of 1.5cm for the extra panel under the arm)
At-B Chest width = 23cm
Rb- Square vertically upwards to find point b
At- Square vertically upwards and downwards to find
Hü-U Front width of waist = 23cm
b-a1 Depth of back shoulder seam = 2cm
H-a1 Draw line of construction
a1-a2 Width = 2.5cm
H-a2 Draw in shoulder seam
a1-s Back armscye seam height = 1/2 shoulder seam height (Rb-a1) minus 1cm
a2-s Draw in curve of armscye
R-r Side seam = 1/2 Rb minus 1cm
T1-T2 Side seam = back neck minus 1cm
T2/r/s Draw line of construction
m1- = the middle of s-r
m1-m2 displace by 2cm for curve of seam
s/m2/r/T2 neatly draw in the side seam
L1-L2 Lower width of skirt = back neck (Hs) minus 1cm
T2-L2 Draw construction line
T2- = Displace by 3/4cm seam width. Gradually draw in the skirt seam edge.
T2/L2 Add 2.5cm for the skirt pleats
T1/L1 add 2.5cm for the centre vent
At-Ad Depth of armscye = displace upwards by 25.5cm
e- = the half of At-B
f- = the half of Hü-U
e-e1 For a more crooked neckpoint displace backwards by 1/2cm
f-e1 Construction line for the neckpoint
f-e1 Place square on this construction line and with point Ad form a construction line passing horizontally forwards to find point H1
H1-H2 Depth of gorge seam = back neck = 7.8cm
H2- Draw construction line with square
H2-H3 Width of gorge seam = back neck + 2cm
H1/H3 Draw in curve of gorge seam
H3/B/U Draw in centre front
Ad-A1 Height of shoulder seam = 3.5 cm
H1-A1 Draw construction line
H1-A2 Width from the back panel (H-a2) is carried over minus 1cm
At-c Construction point = ca.6cm, construction line to A2
s-S Armscye = displace 2cm
Rb-a Armscye = displace ca.5cm
A2/S Neatly draw in the armscye
U1-U Construction line for waist = 1/2 waist + 7.5cm ease for seams and comfort

Seams and Darts

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U-T1 Shortfall or excess according to measure. In this instance it is given as ca. 8.5cm. The excess is taken out at the side seam, and the two side body seams.
r-r1 = displace by 1cm
T3-r Draw construction line according to diagram
s- Side seam = open by 0.5cm. Complete by drawing in S
Rb-r2 Side body seam = displace by 3cm
r2- Square upwards
t- Waist suppression = 1cm each side, 2cm in total. Draft in side body seams as per diagram
At-r3 Underarm seam = displace by 3cm
r3- Square downwards
t1- Waist suppression = 1.5cm. Draw seams as per diagram.
f-t2 Waist dart = displace by ca. 6cm. Dart is on an angle.

The figure of the value of 8.5cm of waist suppression is arrive at in this way:

T2-T3 Side seam suppression = 3.5cm
t- Side body suppression = 2cm
t1- Side body suppression = 1.5cm
t2- Waist dart suppression = 1.5cm
TOTAL WAIST SUPPRESSION = 8.5cm


U- Centre of square
U-u Waist seam = displace down by 2.5cm
u-t1 Draw in waist seam
T3- Waist seam = add 3/4cm and gradually draw in

The Completed Upper Sections and Skirt

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U- Buttoning point = ca. 5cm higher. Here a 1.5cm allowance has been added to the front edge, leading gradually down to point u
H1-h1 Lapel break line = 2cm. Draw in line of bridle and revers according to diagram
B- Chest pocket = displace down by 3cm. Draw construction line to At. Length and size to taste.
At-F Sleeve pitch marks = 1/4 Ad minus 3/4cm

The Skirt
T3- = add 3/4cm seam allowance, square vertically down
T3-G Depth of seat = 1/8th height
G-G1 Width of seat = 2.5cm
T3-G1 Construction line is extended downward
T3-L3 Length from back T2-L2 + 1cm
G1 = displace run of curve backwards by 1.5-2cm for the back edge of skirt
L3- Square forwards of this point
U-u1 Upper skirt width = displaced back by 3cm
L3-L4 Lower skirt width = 1/2 of the upper skirt width
u1-L4 draw in construction line
u2- waist seam is opened up by 1-1.5cm
T3-u3 go upwards 7.5cm
u2-u3 = draw waistseam of skirt as per diagram
u2-L3 skirt front edge as shown
t- Add 1cm dart to completed waist seam
T3-L3 add 2.5cm for back pleats
u2/L3 allow for ca. 2.5cm inlay

All seams have been allowed for with a 3/4cm seam allowance. The centre back seam, neck seam, waist darts, front edge and skirt edge at the back as well as the pleats represent completed seams.

A system that is a variation on the above draft from Kurt Czujewicz from Das Schneiderhandwerk can be found here. A discussion on making up morning coats (and to some extent on body coats in general) from Whife and Dellafera (The Tailor & Cutter) can be found here.

#2 Sator

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 11:05 PM

The translation is now complete.

The original German text is as follows:

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Note that there is a printing era in the section Nähte und Abnäher - Abbildung 831. It reads U1-T1 Ausfall oder Mehrbetrag. I am sure it should read U-T1 instead

#3 Sator

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 09:11 PM

The Rundschau System for Dress Coats

The following is a Rundschau draft for a dress coat (the evening tailcoat worn with white tie) dates from around 1959. Although the following illustration of a dress coat comes from a 1934 edition of The Tailor & Cutter, it is stylistically very similar to the one in the Rundschau book. A general overview on cutting dress coats can also be found here.

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Back and Upper Section

W/b/L Start square here
W-b Back neck = 8 cm
h-H Displace upwards by 2.5cm
W-H Draw in neck seam
W-Rh Back depth of scye + 1cm = 25.3 cm (addition to the straight line of the line of the armscye depth)
W-T Length of waist = 46 cm
W-L Full length of coat = 114cm
Join Rh, T, L
T-T1 Centre of back normally 2cm
L-L1 Centre of back normally 2cm
W/T1/L1 Draw in centre back seam
R-Rb Back width = 21 cm

Rb-At Armscye diameter = 16 + 1.5 cm (extra 1.5cm for the seams of extra panel under the arm) = 17.5cm final figure
At-B Chest width = 24cm
Rb- Square vertically upwards to find point b
At- Square vertically upwards and downwards to find
Hü-U Front width of waist = 24 cm
b-a1 Depth of back shoulder seam = 2cm
H-a1 Draw line of construction
a1-a2 Width = 2 cm
H-a2 Draw in shoulder seam
a1-s Back armscye seam height = 1/2 shoulder seam height (Rb-a1) minus 1cm
a2-s Draw in curve of armscye
R-r Side seam = 1/2 Rb minus 1cm
T1-T2 Side seam = back neck minus 1cm
T2/r/s Draw line of construction
m1- = the middle of s-r
m1-m2 displace by 2cm for curve of seam
s/m2/r/T2 neatly draw in the side seam
L1-L2 Lower width of skirt = back neck (Hs) minus 1cm
T2-L2 Draw construction line
T2- = Displace by 3/4cm seam width. Gradually draw in the skirt seam edge.
T2/L2 Add 2.5cm for the skirt pleats
T1/L1 add 2.5cm for the centre vent
s- Side seam = open by 0.5cm.
s-S Armscye = displace by 2 cm. Complete by drawing in S
At-Ad Depth of armscye = displace upwards by 26.3 cm
e- = the half of At-B
f- = the half of Hü-U
e-e1 For a more crooked neckpoint displace backwards by 1/2cm
f-e1 Construction line for the neckpoint
f-e1 Place square on this construction line and with point Ad form a construction line passing horizontally forwards to find point H1
H1-H2 Depth of gorge seam = back neck = 8 cm
H2- Draw construction line with square
H2-H3 Width of gorge seam = back neck + 2cm
H1/H3 Draw in curve of gorge seam
H3/B/U Draw in centre front
Ad-A1 Height of shoulder seam = 3.5 cm
H1-A1 Draw construction line
H1-A2 Width from the back panel (H-a2) is carried over minus 1cm
At-c Construction point = ca.6cm, construction line to A2
A2/S Neatly draw in armscye
At-F Sleeve pitch marks = 1/4 Ad minus 1/2cm

The Calculation of the Waist Measures

U-U1 Should be 1/2 waist measure + 7 cm extra
U-T1 = Shortfall according to measure. Here it is ca. 10.5cm. This extra length is taken out in the follow way:

T2-T3 Side seam = 4cm taken out
Side body seam at t = 3cm
Side body seam at Hü = 1.5cm
Waist dart at front = 2 cm
TOTAL WAIST SUPPRESSION = 10.5cm


r-r1 = displace by 1cm
T3-r Draw construction line according to diagram
r2- Square upwards
t- Waist suppression = 1.5 cm each side, 3 cm in total. Draft in seams as per diagram
At-r3 Underarm seam = 3cm
r3- Square downwards
t1- Waist suppression = 1.5cm. Draw seams as per diagram
f- Waist dart = Place dart ca. 6cm back from f. Dart is on an angle and is made 2 cm wide (finished seams)
U-u Skirt seam/ front edge = Back neck = 8 cm
U- Commencement point of lapel = 6cm
u-u1 run off of front edge = ca. 7 cm at the bottom
u1-t Nicely draw in skirt seam/ front edge
T3- Skirt seam is lengthened by 3/4cm
H1-h1 Lapel break line = 2cm. Draw in line of bridle and revers according to diagram

Breast pocket draft to taste in size and position

The Skirt

T3- Add 3/4 cm seam allowance. Square vertical to waistline
T3-G Depth of seat = 1/8th height
G-G1 Width of seat = 2.5cm
T3-G1 Construction line is extended downward
T3-L3 Length from back T2-L2 + 1cm
G1 = displace run of curve backwards by 1.5-2cm for the back edge of skirt
L3- Square forwards of this point
Hü-u3 Width of skirt = 1 cm
L3-L4 Lower tail width = 1/2 the upper skirt width u4-u3
u2-L4 Draw construction line
u4 Skirt seam is opened up by 1.5cm
T3-u3 Skirt seam displaced 3/4 cm higher
u4-u3 Waist seam of skirt
u4-L3 Front skirt edge as per diagram
t- Add 1cm dart to completed waist seam
T3-L3 add 2.5cm for back pleats
u4/L3 Inlay for skirt front edge ca. 2.5 cm wide

All seams have been allowed for with a 3/4cm seam allowance. The centre back seam, neck seam, waist darts, front edge and skirt edge at the back as well as the pleats represent completed seams.

A discussion on how to make up dress coats from Whife and Dellafera (The Tailor & Cutter) can be found in this thread.

#4 Sator

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 09:14 PM

The original German text on cutting a "Frack" can be found here (click to enlarge):

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#5 Sator

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 10:52 PM

The Rundschau System for Cutting Frock Coats

This also comes the XVIth edition Rundschau book published around 1959. Although the frock coat largely went out of fashion in the 1930s, when it was supplanted by the morning coat, it seems that it never entirely vanished. Richard Anderson, the Savile Row cutter, wrote in his recent book that he cut himself a frock coat for his wedding. Here is a stylish example from Tommy Nutter, in the 1970's:

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Back and Upper Section

W/b/L Start square here
W-b Back neck = 8 cm
h-H Displace upwards by 2.5cm
W-H Draw in neck seam
W-Rh Back depth of scye + 1cm = 25.3 cm (addition to the straight line of the line of the armscye depth)
W-T Length of waist = 46 cm
W-L Full length of coat = 112 cm
Join Rh, T, L
T-T1 Centre of back normally 2cm
L-L1 Centre of back normally 2cm
W/T1/L1 Draw in centre back seam
R-Rb Back width = 21 cm
Rb-At Armscye diameter = 16 + 1.5 cm (extra 1.5cm for the seams of extra panel under the arm) = 17.5cm final figure
At-B Chest width = 24cm
Rb- Square vertically upwards to find point b
At- Square vertically upwards and downwards to find Hü
Hü-U Front width of waist = 24.5 cm
b-a1 Depth of back shoulder seam = 2cm
H-a1 Draw line of construction
a1-a2 Width = 2 cm
H-a2 Draw in shoulder seam
a1-s Back armscye seam height = 1/2 shoulder seam height (Rb-a1) minus 1cm
a2-s Draw in curve of armscye
R-r Side seam = 1/2 Rb minus 1cm
T1-T2 Side seam = back neck minus 1cm
T2/r/s Draw line of construction
m1- = the middle of r-s
m1-m2 displace by 2cm for curve of seam
s/m2/r/T2 neatly draw in the side seam
L1-L2 Lower width of skirt = back neck (Hs) minus 1cm
T2-L2 Draw construction line
T2- = Displace by 3/4cm seam width. Gradually draw in the skirt seam edge.
T2/L2 Add 2.5cm for the skirt pleats
T1/L1 add 2.5cm for the centre vent
At-Ad Depth of armscye = displace upwards by 26.3 cm
e- = the half of At-B
f- = the half of Hü-U
e-e1 For a more crooked neckpoint displace backwards by 1/2cm
f-e1 Construction line for the neckpoint
f-e1 Place square on this construction line and with point Ad form a construction line passing horizontally forwards to find point H1
H1-H2 Depth of gorge seam = back neck = 8 cm
H2- Draw construction line with square
H2-H3 Width of gorge seam = back neck + 2cm
H1/H3 Draw in curve of gorge seam
H3/B/U Draw in centre front
Ad-A1 Height of shoulder seam = 3.5 cm
H1-A1 Draw construction line
H1-A2 Width from the back panel (H-a2) is carried over minus 1cm
At-c Construction point = ca.6cm, construction line to A2
A2/S Neatly draw in the armscye
At-F Sleeve pitch marks = 1/4 Ad minus 1/2cm

The Determination of the Waist

U1-U Construction line for waist = 1/2 waist + 7.5cm ease for seams and comfort
U-T1 Shortfall or excess according to measure. In this instance it is given as ca. 8.5cm. The excess is taken out at the side seam, and the two side body seams.
T2-T3 Side seam suppression = 3.5cm
r-r1 = displace by 1cm
T3-r Draw construction line according to diagram
T3-S Draw side seam according to diagram
Rb-r2 Side body seam = displace by 3cm
r2- Square upwards
t- Waist suppression = 1.5 cm each side, 3 cm in total. Draft in side body seams as per diagram
At-r3 Underarm seam = displace by 3cm
r3- Square downwards
t1- Waist suppression = 1 cm. Draw seams as per diagram
f- Waist dart = Place dart ca. 6cm back from f. Dart is on an angle and is made 2 cm wide (finished seams)
U-u Waist seam = displace down by 2.5cm
u-t1 Draw in waist seam
T3- Waist seam = add 3/4cm and gradually draw in
u- The lower buttonhole lies in the waist seam. The upper buttonhole is ca. 12 cm above that. Overlap of edge 6.5 cm below, 7.5 cm above
H1-h1 Lapel break line = 2cm. Draw in line of bridle and revers according to diagram

The Skirt

u3/u2/G Draw the foundation square
r3-u2 Width of skirt = Carry the total length of T3-U of the upper section over minus the dart. This length should be measured exactly
u3-u4 Skirt seam with the same total length as U-u = 2.5 cm + 1.5 cm extra = place 4 cm higher
u4-u2 Skirt seam as per diagram
u6- = displace curve ca. 1.5 cm
u4-u2 Draw line of construction as per diagram
u4-u2 Waist seam as per diagram
u4-G Depth of seat = 1/8th Kg
G-G1 Width of seat = ca. 2.5 cm
u4-G1 Extend construction line downwards
u3-L3 Length from back T2-L2 + 1 cm extra
G1- = Curve passes 1.5-2 cm away from G extending to the base to form the back edge of the skirt
u2- Square vertically down
u2-L4 Carry over length of u4-L3
L4- Draw square
L3-L4 Draw lower edge
u2-u5 Add 7 cm to front edge
L4-L5 Add 9 cm to lower front edge
u5-L5 Draw front edge of skirt. In practice it is worthwhile adding in a ca. 3 cm inlay here

Waist dart of skirt: 3/4 cm wide forming a completed seam

The Flared Skirt

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On completion of the standard skirt, the lower width of the skirt from L3 to L4 is divided into three equal sections. The same thing is done with the upper width from u4-u2. The sections are opened up around 3 to 4 cm at the bottom. It is recommended that this widening of the skirt is carried out in most cases. The amount of flare added to the skirt can be changed according to taste. It also adds greater ease of movement.

#6 Sator

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 09:15 AM

Full original text for the Rundschau "Gehrock":

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#7 I.Brackley

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Posted 24 March 2010 - 06:22 AM

This is fantastic. Thank you for posting this. I know this is more esoteric territory and might not garner the same ammount of traffic as the lounge coat sections but might this thread be made sticky (getting crowded up there!) alongside the other Rundschau lounge and sleeve system sections, if only for completeness?

Richard Anderson, the Savile Row cutter, wrote in his recent book that he cut himself a frock coat for his wedding


This is quite encouraging for those of us who are of the opinion that the Frock may yet have a place in a present day wardrobe, daytime weddings are certainly a space where they would not look out of place (I have mixed ideas about it's use as semi-formal evening dress but that may be my early 1990's nostalgia speaking).
If a professional tailor with a regular formalwear niche (and Nutter's level of self-promotion savvy) could offer bespoke bodycoats (including the frock) they might regain a toehold as status symbols.
Sadly, that potential niche in the formalwear market is instead occupied by this sort of thing:

http://tuxedowholesa...c=os_frockcoats :nea: :no:
"The possibilities that exist in the portrayal of personality constitute the strongest, and in fact the only unanswerable argument for the supremacy of Custom Tailoring"

-F.T. Croonborg, c. 1917

#8 Sator

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Posted 24 March 2010 - 01:24 PM

This is fantastic. Thank you for posting this. I know this is more esoteric territory and might not garner the same ammount of traffic as the lounge coat sections but might this thread be made sticky (getting crowded up there!) alongside the other Rundschau lounge and sleeve system sections, if only for completeness?


Yes, it's a bit crowded so I put in an edit at the end of the Rundschau lounge post in big coloured letters with a link to this thread. Hopefully, that will be enough. If not, I will reconsider pinning this post at the top of this forum.

I also have some other things that I will add in time: the mess jacket, and cutting coats for disproportionate figures.

#9 Sator

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Posted 10 April 2010 - 02:01 PM

Those interested in The Tailor & Cutter system for cutting body coats are referred to the following thread:

http://www.cutterand...?showtopic=1104

#10 Sator

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Posted 29 April 2010 - 03:44 PM

The following comes from Rundschau , 6 November 1962. The pattern is for a dress coat:

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The system is the same, except the proportions they start with are a bit stouter:

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The 1962 coat is a tad shorter, and the lapels narrower (see diagram):

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One of the more surprising aspects of the Rundschau body coat block is that the neckpoint is very straight - at about 1/9th of the chest measure. The following procedure crookens the neck, making room to shorten the front edge to infuse more fullness into the chest without unduly straightening the neckpoint (this better maintains the neckpoint closer to a more neutral 1/10th of chest measure from the front of scye line):

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A cut is made into the paper pattern running horizontally across the chest as shown. A gorge dart is then introduced 2.5-3 cm from the bridle. The neck point is crookened by first opening up the cut by 1.5cm. The gorge dart is then opened so that it is 1.5cm wide. The bridle no longer needs to be drawn in, as shown in the above version from the Rundschau XVIth Ed. book. Note the curve in the run of the bridle giving it extra length which is removed on drawing it in. With the introduction of the dart, the bridle is shown as being straight, because the dart alone suffices to introduce shortness to the front edge. The gorge dart is then finished off using a French curve as shown. Note that the dart ends up being a shorter than the cut introduced into the pattern.

A gorge dart like this can be introduced into any Rundschau body coat.

#11 Sator

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Posted 29 April 2010 - 11:07 PM

On a related note, it should be noted that on making up any Rundschau coat it is important not to stretch the front of armscye. Rundschau coats are intended to be made up by introducing shortness to the armscye. This is done mostly by shrinking at the bottom front of the armscye. Although I have never seen it discussed in Rundschau, because the armscye is already quite easy and the neckpoint quite straight it should also be possible to reinforce the ironwork by sewing in something like a strip of linen or tape to the bottom front edge of armscye, drawing it in to hold it short. This also helps to prevent any stretching or the ironwork 'coming undone'. This procedure helps to make the chest fuller, and the easy armscye more fitted.

#12 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 04:22 AM

On a related note, it should be noted that on making up any Rundschau coat it is important not to stretch the front of armscye. Rundschau coats are intended to be made up by introducing shortness to the armscye. This is done mostly by shrinking at the bottom front of the armscye. Although I have never seen it discussed in Rundschau, because the armscye is already quite easy and the neckpoint quite straight it should also be possible to reinforce the ironwork by sewing in something like a strip of linen or tape to the bottom front edge of armscye, drawing it in to hold it short. This also helps to prevent any stretching or the ironwork 'coming undone'. This procedure helps to make the chest fuller, and the easy armscye more fitted.


It is not only the shrinking at the armhole, you are driving mostly the width out over the shoulder seam at the armhole, the armhole itself you could secure with bias tape (Schraegband) that all is superior German engineering against all other cutting system worldwide and this since 1954.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#13 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 04:39 AM

superior German engineering against all other cutting system worldwide and this since 1954.


So you want to start another war? bring it Hun! :spiteful:

Posted Image


:drinks:
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#14 zokiTzar

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 05:00 AM

thanks sator for the effort
beautiful stuff
doesnt matter which nationality produced it at all
hope to be able to do one someday maybe for my diamond wedding :drinks:

#15 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 06:43 AM

So you want to start another war? bring it Hun! :spiteful:

:drinks:


=@ :crazy:
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#16 Sator

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 09:33 AM

Guys, please... :Praying:

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#17 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 10:32 AM

That's not what you were saying about 1 am last night :p

He knows I'm joking, but the non German system bashing does need to end.
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Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#18 Nishijin

Nishijin

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 10:45 PM

He knows I'm joking, but the non German system bashing does need to end.


Well said. All this is ridiculous. It is well known that French systems are far superior :super: , that is why France has so good patternmaking schools. Pity better French systems are copyrighted and I cannot publish them here :diablo:
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