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National Differences in Tailored Styles - Fact or Fiction?


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#1 Sator

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 12:24 AM

Alleged differences in styles between countries is something that is often discussed. It is also a boon for satirists:

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However amusing these sort of stereotypes may be, there is a need to question whether there is a significant perceptible difference between countries beyond variations between tailors, as well as due to fashion and personal taste.

With that in mind, I thought I would invite readers to try to spot which country each of the following six examples comes from. All pictures come from an international tailor's exhibition. The pictures were originally published in Rundschau, 1st September, 1952.

The correct answers will be given next week. Good luck! You will need it.

1.

Posted Image

2.

Posted Image

3.

Posted Image

4.

Posted Image

5.

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6.

Posted Image

#2 carpu65

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 11:35 AM

Italy picture-1 ?

UK picture-2 ?

P.S. In my opinion an interesting fact is that the national difference are more evident after the war,in 50s and 60s that before the war, in 30s.
Why?
Well i think that before the war all look to London.
London is the City,Saville Row the street.
After the war London lost his primate,maybe because UK is not more a superpower.
So,London creates a vernacular style (Neo Edwardian),
USA go to Ivy League,
Italy creates the Roman slim cut with natural shoulder,
France have a coat long and with recognizable wide shoulder,
Ecc,ecc,ecc.

#3 Schneidergott

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 05:44 PM

Sator, could you at least name the countries involved? If I had to guess I'd say that all (except #2) are German... :hi:

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#4 posaune

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 07:17 PM

I think Sator has more nations in it:
It is very difficult. For me is
# 1 german
# 2 italian
# 3 austrian
# 4 netherland
# 5 swiss/france?
# 6 english


it is real guessing on my part and sure I have blamed myself.
lg
posaune

#5 Frog in Suit

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 08:32 PM

If I had to hazard a guess, I would say that picture number 1 is Japan. I cannot even make a guess about the others.
Frog in Suit

#6 Schneidergott

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 08:37 PM

#2 is probably French (wide shoulders and chest).
#6: British
#1: German

All others would be totally guessing, since we do not know if there is an Italian model.
Again, they all look similar to me. Dictate of fashion?

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#7 Sator

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 09:15 PM

Yes, yes keep going!!! :)

#8 posaune

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 10:40 PM

Oh frog in suit, yes, it could be Japan or Korea.
I thought about "Stresemann" that will be german, but the cut is so clean and refreshing. I saw some japanese cut like this.
lg
posaune

#9 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 01:26 AM

I wish #1 is German cause that is what Germans craftmansip is able to do. #5 is also God-like tailored, maybe Austrian. #6 Switzerland - very accurat as well.

All others are not important.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#10 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 03:52 AM

Yes, I believe no 1 is German as it has a cookie cutter appearance and no form.
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#11 Schneidergott

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 05:25 AM

#6 looks weird: The left lapel is SB, the right lapel looks DB.

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#12 jukes

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 06:32 AM

1. France
2. USA
3. Austria
4. Germany
5. Spain
6. England

#13 Padme

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 09:43 AM

I can only guess at 4 of them.

1. US
2. England
3. Italy
6. German

#14 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 01:08 PM

The problem is that all of the above are either formal or novelty cuts. These are based more upon artistry than national or personal styles
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#15 PocketTriangle

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 07:27 PM

The problem is that all of the above are either formal or novelty cuts. These are based more upon artistry than national or personal styles


Agreed. This would be much easier with lounge suits.

Also, national styles do not necessarily correspond with national origin. A British or American tailor could make an "Italian" style suit (or vice versa), just as a British cook could make a pizza. The pizza would come from England, but if asked its style of cuisine, I would answer "Italian".

#16 NJS

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 12:19 AM

This can be only a tantalizing guessing-game :Thinking: . However, none the less fun :sorcerer: for that. Accordingly:

1.Japan or Hong Kong.
2.German.
3.USA.
4.Impossible to say - so France.
5.Italy.
6.England.

NJS.
<b></b>NJS<b></b>

#17 Sator

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Posted 12 May 2010 - 12:03 AM

I thought about "Stresemann" that will be german, but the cut is so clean and refreshing. I saw some japanese cut like this.
lg
posaune


The Stresemann is what the English sometimes called the "stockbrocker's rig". In the banking districts of London this was once a common sight:

Posted Image

The name Stresemann or "kleine Besuchsanzug" is only used when a jacket is worn. In the case of our mystery coat Number 1, it is a formal morning coat which in German makes it a "grosse Besuchsanzug".

Here is the Japanese version of formal morning dress from Allgemeine Schneiderzeitung, August 1964:

Posted Image

#18 posaune

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 04:32 AM

Sator,
the week is over!!!!!
I want to blush of shame
Lg
posaune

Edited by posaune, 18 May 2010 - 04:33 AM.





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