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A Golden Age of Italian Tailoring: Galliano Caraceni


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#1 Sator

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 11:52 PM

In the December, 1952 issue of Rundschau, they pay a visit to Galliano Caraceni in Rome. The firm was founded in 1926 by Domenico Caraceni on Via Boncompagni - a very elegant street in the diplomatic quarter of the Italian capital. Domenico's brother, Galliano, took over the firm after his death.

Maestro Galliano Caraceni is Vice President of the Associazone Artistica Habilitamento. Unlike in Germany not all tailors belonged to the association but only leading high end and fashion leading houses. Caraceni counts amongst its clients not only members of the Italian aristocracy, but almost the entire Italian diplomatic corps, as well as well known American and international film stars. Hollywood film stars never fail to pay Maestro Caraceni a visit when they are filming in Cinecittą.

As our pictures show the Maestro prefers a correct but fashionable style free of exaggerations, without ever losing it own personality. He told our reported that he disapproves of the American style. His style could be characterised as a blend of English, German, and Italian styles. Amongst his clients include Gary Cooper, Tyrone Powers, Douglas Fairbanks, Maria Felix, Myrna Loy, Lynn Merrick, Helene Shepherd, Jenny Yugo, Junie Astor, and Luis Trenker.

Signore Galliano Caraceni:

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This reefer jacket is cut along currently fashionable lines that run parallel to German trends:

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Autographed photos of clients line the walls:

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A typically Italian version of the lounge jacket of light coloured worsted with a small check and contrasting piping - three buttons done up!

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An interesting detail on this lounge coat with double breasted lapels are the sleeve cuffs and cloth covered buttons:

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#2 carpu65

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 02:57 AM

The "contrasting piping" is only an graphic sign on the photo for better see the picture not much clear.
P.S.
"Rundschau" is a German magazine?
You buy the old issues on Ebay?
Thanks.

#3 Kevin Koch

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 03:08 AM

Looks like piping to me. ?
Kevin A. Koch
Koch House of Design

#4 carpu65

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 03:38 AM

Caraceni is "without-time".
This is a Domenico Caraceni suit,cut for Gianni Agnelli in 1936:

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This is a 1954 Galliano Caraceni for Agnelli

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Galliano Caraceni 1957:

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Tommy & Giulio Caraceni 1967:

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Tommy % Giulio Caraceni 1971:

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Tommy & Giulio Caraceni 1980:

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Tommy & Giulio Caraceni 1991:

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Is interesting note that in the Gianni Agnelli opinion,the best Caraceni is in Rome (Galliano-Tommy & Giulio).
The Caraceni double breasted is "transformable":
Can be close to the lower buttons,but also to the mid bittons couple,and the rever is "elastic".

Edited by carpu65, 13 May 2010 - 03:45 AM.


#5 carpu65

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 03:41 AM

Looks like piping to me. ?

The sign is too much black and mark

#6 Sator

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 12:30 PM

The above text is a translation. That is, the authors back in 1952 actually call it piping in their text.

#7 carpu65

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 02:43 AM

The above text is a translation. That is, the authors back in 1952 actually call it piping in their text.

Is surprising to me!
Caraceni was (and is) a tailor very,very,very conservative.
Is possible a some influence (look also at the cuffs,and covered buttons in peaks lapels single breasted)
by the contemporary Neo Edwardian fashion?

#8 Sator

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 10:38 AM

I think that tailored clothes penetrated into more aspects of people's lives. A sports jacket like that might have been worn to the beach or to a picnic in the country (with a bow tie and straw hat perhaps). It would have been perfect for that. The idea that a coat could only be worn for "proper occasions" didn't exist. Edwardian and Victorian tailors showed much more, usually tasteful, imagination than today's ones, who have reacted against the catwalk culture with an extremely rigid conservatism that exceeds that of the Victorians.

#9 murtadza

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 03:53 PM

Caraceni is "without-time".
This is a Domenico Caraceni suit,cut for Gianni Agnelli in 1936:

Posted Image

This is a 1954 Galliano Caraceni for Agnelli

Posted Image

Galliano Caraceni 1957:

Posted Image

Tommy & Giulio Caraceni 1967:

Posted Image

Tommy % Giulio Caraceni 1971:

Posted Image

Tommy & Giulio Caraceni 1980:

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Tommy & Giulio Caraceni 1991:

Posted Image

Is interesting note that in the Gianni Agnelli opinion,the best Caraceni is in Rome (Galliano-Tommy & Giulio).
The Caraceni double breasted is "transformable":
Can be close to the lower buttons,but also to the mid bittons couple,and the rever is "elastic".



Mr Carpu65, Thanks for the photos.

I am traveling to Rome,tentatively mid July,and will visit Caraceni definitely.
Do you lived in Rome?Can you kindly oblige me with your contact address(e-mail).I would like to discuss
and obtain your advice ,as this would be my first experiance with the Caraceni.
my apology if I am out of topics

murtadza

#10 carpu65

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 04:56 AM

Dear Sir,
Im sorry for my poor English.
Im living in Messina,Sicily,not in Rome.
About Caraceni you must know that are several tailors with this name,
in Milan,in Rome and one in Ortona (Abruzzo) too.
In Milan we have:
1- "Mario Caraceni & Mario Pozzi" (former "Agostino Caraceni").
2-"Domenico Caraceni",by Gianni Campagna once an apprentice at Sartoria Domenico Caraceni in Milan.
3-"Ferdinando Caraceni",a simple homonymous, famous for be the tailor of Silvio Berlusconi (that never knew to be gone to the wrong Caraceni).

In Rome we have:
1- Tommy & Giulio Caraceni heirs of Galliano
(and until early 90s another "Domenico Caraceni" property of old Caraceni cutters).

In the little city of Ortona (hometown of Caraceni) we have an nephew,Domenico Caraceni; but i don't know if is a good tailor or not.

The best Caraceni (forget the others) are Mario Caraceni & Mario Pozzi in Milan,and Tommy & Giulio Caraceni in Rome.
The best of the best are Tommy & Giulio Caraceni.

The style of the house is identical to the suits that you can see in this thread about Galliano Caraceni.
I think that a lounge suit is a some less expansive of Huntsman , Anderson & Sheppard or Rubinacci.

Caraceni is the master of "doppiopetto trasformabile" (double breasted with tranformables lapels): a tranformable lapel is a lapel that can be buttoned at the mid couple of buttons or at the lower couple of buttons.
The lapel roll elastique and you can see the internal buttonhole (look the second picture in this thread),but you can also buttoned to the mid couple perfectly.
I dont'know if in London this technique still exist or if is lost.
In Italy begins to become rare.

Another thinks that you must know is that the silhouette of Caraceni have a bit of drape.

Edited by carpu65, 18 May 2010 - 09:15 AM.


#11 carpu65

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 01:20 PM

Edward VIII (future Duke of Windsor) with a not tranformable double breasted
(note like the lapel buttoned at low couple don't roll at all)

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Edward VIII with a transformable double breasted (the lapel roll perfectlly).
Is this suit an Caraceni?
Are know some secretly visit of Domenico Caraceni to Edward in London.

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#12 murtadza

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 03:41 PM

Dear Sir,
Im sorry for my poor English.
Im living in Messina,Sicily,not in Rome.
About Caraceni you must know that are several tailors with this name,
in Milan,in Rome and one in Ortona (Abruzzo) too.
In Milan we have:
1- "Mario Caraceni & Mario Pozzi" (former "Agostino Caraceni").
2-"Domenico Caraceni",by Gianni Campagna once an apprentice at Sartoria Domenico Caraceni in Milan.
3-"Ferdinando Caraceni",a simple homonymous, famous for be the tailor of Silvio Berlusconi (that never knew to be gone to the wrong Caraceni).

In Rome we have:
1- Tommy & Giulio Caraceni heirs of Galliano
(and until early 90s another "Domenico Caraceni" property of old Caraceni cutters).

In the little city of Ortona (hometown of Caraceni) we have an nephew,Domenico Caraceni; but i don't know if is a good tailor or not.

The best Caraceni (forget the others) are Mario Caraceni & Mario Pozzi in Milan,and Tommy & Giulio Caraceni in Rome.
The best of the best are Tommy & Giulio Caraceni.

The style of the house is identical to the suits that you can see in this thread about Galliano Caraceni.
I think that a lounge suit is a some less expansive of Huntsman , Anderson & Sheppard or Rubinacci.

Caraceni is the master of "doppiopetto trasformabile" (double breasted with tranformables lapels): a tranformable lapel is a lapel that can be buttoned at the mid couple of buttons or at the lower couple of buttons.
The lapel roll elastique and you can see the internal buttonhole (look the second picture in this thread),but you can also buttoned to the mid couple perfectly.
I dont'know if in London this technique still exist or if is lost.
In Italy begins to become rare.

Another thinks that you must know is that the silhouette of Caraceni have a bit of drape.



Thanks Mr.Carpu.I am visiting italy as a whole and my landing will be Rome and after that will be various destination(touring).I take your reccomendation and go to Tommy&Guilio Caraceni .I think the 'doppiopetto trasformbile'may help me to cover my prominent front.

I ,ll be going south to Napels too.I hope we could meet.

My email is:almurtadza9@yahoo.com

Appreciate if you could post more pictures for us ,especially the one in SB


MURTADZA

#13 carpu65

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 03:48 AM

1938.
Domenico Caraceni for Gianni Agnelli.

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1948.
Galliano Caraceni for Tyrone Power.

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1960.
Galliano Caraceni for Henry Fonda.

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1960-1963. Galliano/Tommy & Giulio Caraceni for Gianni Agnelli.

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1966-1968.
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni for Gianni Agnelli.

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1987.
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni for Edoardo Agnelli.

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Note: Domenico Caraceni-Galliano-Tommy & Giulio are the same tailorshop.

#14 carpu65

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 04:03 AM

1957.
Galliano Caraceni for Douglas Faibanks.
Double breasted with transformable lapels:

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Edited by carpu65, 19 May 2010 - 04:05 AM.


#15 Schneidergott

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 05:07 AM

Domenico Caraceni in Caraceni in the 30's (he's the one on the right):

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The team of Augusto Caraceni in front of the Milan Dome in 1946:

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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#16 carpu65

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 11:36 AM

A little correction.
The first picture,with Douglas Fairbanks Sr is take in 20s
(I don't remember if is 1926 or 1928,but i believe is 1928).
Where are from the pictures?
I have see only the first in a old magazine,but was small.

P.S.

Galliano and Augusto,the brothers of Domenico.

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Augusto in 30s was the director of the Caraceni of Paris.
With the War,in 1940 he set in Milan.
Galliano was in Rome with the Brother Domenico.
When he die,inherited the tailorshop of Rome.
Tommy & Giulio are the nephews,and were with uncle Galliano
from early 50s.

Edited by carpu65, 19 May 2010 - 12:06 PM.


#17 Schneidergott

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 02:16 PM

The images are from the book: Sarti d'Abrruzzo (The Abruzzi tailors), which is out of print and hard to find, except here!
It seems the author got the date wrong, it says 30's in the book.

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Another Caraceni?

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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#18 murtadza

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 04:35 PM

A little correction.
The first picture,with Douglas Fairbanks Sr is take in 20s
(I don't remember if is 1926 or 1928,but i believe is 1928).
Where are from the pictures?
I have see only the first in a old magazine,but was small.

P.S.

Galliano and Augusto,the brothers of Domenico.

Posted Image

Augusto in 30s was the director of the Caraceni of Paris.
With the War,in 1940 he set in Milan.
Galliano was in Rome with the Brother Domenico.


Mr.Carpu,

Thanks,great pictures.
I would like to propose the work of Maestro Caraceni be documented into a book as an inspiration for futu
re generation ,not only to admire but also to look for inspiration,especially for the upcoming bespoke artisan of ITALY.
The influence for designers clothing are becoming too rapid.The customers aren't aware of its disadvantage that their cloths are no longer wearable
the next day.
Forgive me if I am using this forum to express my sentiment

murtadza


When he die,inherited the tailorshop of Rome.
Tommy & Giulio are the nephews,and were with uncle Galliano
from early 50s.






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