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A trouser draft


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#1 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 29 May 2010 - 06:41 AM

I have read some of the trouser thread topics and wandered where to place a draft of my own for discussion and comment.
I have decided to start a new thread and hope this will be OK.
As usual I am falling on Sators' good will to open my doc file!
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#2 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 29 May 2010 - 06:43 AM

File for the above post.

Attached Files


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#3 Martin Stall

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Posted 29 May 2010 - 08:31 AM

Nice one, Mansie. This is the one you use, right?
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#4 saveira

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Posted 29 May 2010 - 09:05 AM

File for the above post.


I like the notes for this trousers pants. Usually I do not measure the hips for men, instead I use Hips = 7" more that waist, but I think I will follow this draft exactly as it is. What increase (increment) per size is appropriate for men?
Thank you for posting... Will let you know the results after I fit someone using this draft.

#5 Terri

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Posted 29 May 2010 - 09:20 AM

Looks good, two questions:
1. point 5A is given as 5 cm beyond 5, what about different sizes? Usually I think of a proportionate amount here.
2. seam allowances- are they allowed everywhere or are some lines net? Is the seam allowance .75 cm (1/4") or a full 1 cm ?

#6 jukes

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Posted 29 May 2010 - 05:08 PM

Seam allowance looks to be 1/4" all round, the proportion for the fork is allowed for on the topside, 1/2 of 1/6th scale.
The seat angle looks to be quite "straight"
Be careful not to curve the seam runs too much (straighter is better) through the hip and thigh especially with side pockets as this will affect the way the pockets sit

Edited by jukes, 29 May 2010 - 05:16 PM.

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#7 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 30 May 2010 - 06:03 AM

Looks good, two questions:
1. point 5A is given as 5 cm beyond 5, what about different sizes? Usually I think of a proportionate amount here.
2. seam allowances- are they allowed everywhere or are some lines net? Is the seam allowance .75 cm (1/4") or a full 1 cm ?


There is a proportionate increase in the fork region with the hip measure the 5cm is for stride room.
Another method is to locate point 5a by measuring 1/12 of the seat from point 19 and adding a 2.5cm allowance for the stride room.
Its the age old problem of what is the correct amount?
Seam allowance included == 1cm
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#8 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 30 May 2010 - 06:16 AM

I like the notes for this trousers pants. Usually I do not measure the hips for men, instead I use Hips = 7" more that waist, but I think I will follow this draft exactly as it is. What increase (increment) per size is appropriate for men?
Thank you for posting... Will let you know the results after I fit someone using this draft.



My instructions were written with students in mind, but sometimes in trying to make things easier to understand the instructions can become quite extensive.

It is always advisable to take the waist and the seat measure. The life style of people today would make the 7" a bit doubtful!

Most size charts today give a 4cm increase between sizes. the old system was 2" between sizes.
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#9 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 30 May 2010 - 06:25 AM

Nice one, Mansie. This is the one you use, right?


Yes. I have used this method for some time. I divised it for students so they could understand how to find the seat angle by proportions of the seat. It is not too far removed from most trouser systems, I do not claim it to be a new system or anything radical, but it gives a nice clean fitting trouser.
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#10 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 30 May 2010 - 06:31 AM

Seam allowance looks to be 1/4" all round, the proportion for the fork is allowed for on the topside, 1/2 of 1/6th scale.
The seat angle looks to be quite "straight"
Be careful not to curve the seam runs too much (straighter is better) through the hip and thigh especially with side pockets as this will affect the way the pockets sit


Seams are 1cm allowed in the system, you are right about the seat proportion.
The sideseam does look a bit shaped between the seat and the knee but I think its becouse it was the style of the day when the draft was devised.
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#11 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 30 May 2010 - 06:50 AM

Here is another trouser system. This is from a book by Poole written in 1920, Its a bit dated but take note of the way he locates the front waist position. It is quite valid and is ideal for calculating the front waist proportion for corpulent trousers.

Again it is an attached file in Word format.
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#12 Sator

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Posted 01 June 2010 - 08:35 AM

The first Word document is as follows:

BASIC TROUSER DRAFT (plain fronts)
Measurements.
Outside leg 102cm
Inside leg 76cm
Waist 84cm
Seat 100cm
Knee 52cm
Bottoms 44cm

TOPSIDE

Lay out your diagram paper. Draw a line down the paper about 20cm in from edge.
Make line equal to the side seam length.
Locate point 1 at the top right of paper.
2 from 1 = the rise measure less 3cm.
3 from 2 = the inside leg measure.
4 from 3 = 1/2 the leg measure + 5cm to locate the knee position
Square both ways from 1, 2, 3, and 4
5 from 2 = 1/6 of the seat measure
6 from 2 = 1/6 of the seat measure
Divide 5 and 2 to locate 7, (Equal to 1/12 seat.)
Square up from 7 to locate 8 on the line squared across from 1
Measure back on the line 8 - 1; make this equal to 1/4 of the waist measure + 2cm locate point 9 (This is the front waist line.)
10 From 7 = 1cm, Connect 10 to 8
11 From 7 = 1/12 of the seat, square back 1/4 of the seat measure to locate 12
Draw a short line at a 45% angle from 7 and locate 13 equal to 4.5cm
Starting on the line 8 to 10, at point just above 11, draw a curve down through 13 into point 5
(This gives you the front fly line.)
14 and 15 = Half the knee measure divided equally each side of point 4
16 and 17 = Half the bottom measure divided equally each side of point 3
Now, connect point 5 through point 14 down to point 16 for the inside leg seam.
Connect point 9 with a gentle curve, down through point 12 to point 6 and onto point 15 at the knee and down into point 17 at the bottom of the leg.
(This gives you the side seam run, point 15 to 17 can be drawn with a straight line.)

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This completes the topside.

UNDERSIDE

Measure out 2cm from points 14, 15, 16, 17, and locate 14a, 15a, 16a, and 17a.
Measure out 5cm from point 5 and locate 5a.Shape the inside leg seam.
Measure from point 14 to 5 and make 14a to 5a the same measure. (Point 5a will drop below the line squared from 5.
18 From 11 = the same distance as 7 to 11 (1/12 of the seat)
19 is midway between 5 and 7. Draw a line from 19 through 18 and continue the line above the top of the trouser.
Locate point 20 on the intersection of the front waist line. (This gives you your seat angle.)
21 From 20 = the same as 5 to 19.
Shape the back seat seam by curving from the seat angle at a point opposite point 11 and run into point 5a with a gentle curve.
To give a clean seam at the back, donít make the curve anymore than 1.5cm from the fly line.
22 from 21 = 1/4 of the waist + 5cm and is located on the line squared out from 9
23 is measured from point 18 and = 1/4 of the seat + 5cm and is located on the line squared out from point 12.
Shape the side seam from 22 through point 23 and continue down to points 14a to 17a.
Measure midway between points 21 and 22, make point 24 1cm back towards point 22. Square down from the waistline about 8cm for back dart.
Complete the dart by dividing 1.5cm each side of the dart line= 3cm. Mark dart as shown.

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Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#13 Sator

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Posted 01 June 2010 - 08:41 AM

Here is another trouser system. This is from a book by Poole written in 1920, Its a bit dated but take note of the way he locates the front waist position. It is quite valid and is ideal for calculating the front waist proportion for corpulent trousers.



The Word file containing the 1920 Poole trouser draft is as follows:

Normal Trouser Pattern Dias 3. 4. 5. Instructions for drafting

Measures = 41 ½”Outside leg 30”Inside leg 34”Waist 39”Seat 19”Knee 16”Bottoms

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Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#14 greger

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Posted 02 June 2010 - 06:16 AM

The last post shows part of the directions. Where is the rest? Like point 25. Or, the waistband. It looks like a nice pattern.

#15 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 02 June 2010 - 07:13 AM

Thanks for pointing that out 'Greger' I have missed out a complete page!
I must have had a senior moment!
Here is the missing page.


Sator, I am still having proplems with Photobucket! I have forgotten my password and cannot get unto the site. I will keep trying.

Edited by MANSIE WAUCH, 02 June 2010 - 07:13 AM.

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#16 Sator

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Posted 02 June 2010 - 11:04 AM

Here is the missing page:

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Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#17 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 06:10 AM

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This looks ok, everything else here is odd.

Schneidern heisst, viel Wissen, viel Arbeit und keine Kohle im Sack, dafuer aber viele Kunden, die alles besser wissen.  :Big Grin:


#18 jukes

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Posted 04 June 2010 - 04:25 PM

This looks ok, everything else here is odd.


This method is almost the same as i draft trousers, apart from the seat angle, so on Monday i cut and made a pair following these instructions along with 1/4 waist measure either side of 3/4" back from topside waist centre line, as explained in the other draft instructions.
The results were very good, so i think i will stick with this.
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