My thought was only if the back depth better should be 1/8 chest + 1/16 body height + 0.5cm like in 1960. I feel the proportion is a little bit too tight without 0.5cm.
As for the sleeve cap height I would prefer not to subtract 0.5cm but would rather take the whole length measured to avoid Heberolle.
It is called Heberolle what is under the Arm caused by a 0.5... 1cm shorter sleeve head cap to produce Hebelänge. I read that throughout the East German Literature.
West Germans did not even know the term cause they drafted something they didn't really understand and they mixed Heberolle together with sleeve cap height and sleeve length throughout the books. In 1969 they got so confused with that, that they abandoned the Heberolle draft as it made no sense. In reality they still had a secret Heberolle of 0.5 which is not wrong. East German Cutters also mixed with the Heberolle around and abandoned it already in 1967. I would not say a 0.5cm Heberolle is wrong it allows you to make the sleeve cap a little bit wider but it could produce a small bulb in the front. To check that out is rather tricky cause you have to measure in the mm on round seams. When 3 people measure the armhole depth they get 3 different results cause you have to hold and open the armhole in a proportional way of the Armscye width, so the measured depth is always a little bit different.
Indeed a corpulent person who wears his arms a little bit side wards need Hebelänge in order to avoid wearing folds in the sleeve cap.
Für den hinteren Unter-Ärmelabschnitt, der voll geschnitten sein sollte, wie auch die richtig Lage der hinteren Seitenspitze von 6cm, um einen vollen Hinter-Ärmel mit Bewegungsvolumen hinzubekommen, da gibts Abhandlungen, wie oben von SG. Losberg setzt die Seitenspitze sogar auf 7.5cm fast, der hat eine Bequemlichkeitsmacke.
Dietl has 11% in his sleeves, I would rather use 12%, more than 12%, I would say it is too much for today's fabric, 11.5 - 12% should be perfect. He also uses the full armhole depth in the sleeve cap.
Edited by Der Zuschneider, 18 September 2012 - 12:24 AM.