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16 Top Bespoke Artisans


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#1 Sator

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Posted 25 May 2009 - 10:38 AM

While in town yesterday, I picked up an issue of the Japanese magazine, Men's Ex. In the June issue was a list of the "16 best" bespoke artisans. Those who have access to the edition might like to check it out (whether you read Japanese or not, as the names and contact details of the artisans appear in Roman script, and the photographs are interesting). Here is the list along with their provided contact details:

1. Sartoria Franco Puppato
San Marco-Calle dei Fabbri, 4723 Venezia
http://www.francopup...venezia_eng.htm
+39 041 5221814
From 3000 Euros

2. Alessandro Martorana
Corso Marconi, 13 Torino
+39 011 655622
http://alessandromartorana.com/
info@alessandromartorana.com

3. N.H. Sartoria
http://www.nhsartoria.it/home.htm
Via Chiossetto 2, Milano
http://nhsartoria.it/

4. Sartoria Guido Bosi
Via Luigi Carlo Farini, 3 Bologna
+39 051 581975
An article about him in Italian
http://www.stilearte...o.asp?IDart=886

5. Francesco Guida Per Montezemolo
Via Pantano 52, Capalle, Firenze
http://montezemolo.net/

6. Sartoria Pastena
Via Ascensione, 38 Napoli
+39 081 401867
From 1700 Euros

7. Sartoria Crimi
Via B.Civiletti, 11 Palermo
http://www.sartoriacrimi.com/
+39 091 323308
From 1500 Euros

8. Sartoria Carbone
Via Leone IV, 65/67 Roma
http://www.sartoriacarbone.it/
+39 06 39725517
From 1000 Euro

9. Camiceria Artigianale
Vi di Pallacorda, 1 Roma
+39 06 6892401
Shirts from 110 Euros

10. Pelletteria Pompea
Via di Ripetta, 150 Roma
+39 06 6879165
Leather goods - briefcases, wallets, luggage

11. Ferruccio Serafini
Via Caio Mario, 14 Roma
+39 06 3211719
Leather goods - briefcases, wallets, luggage

12. Anthony Delos
34 Rue du Mail, 49350 Les Rosiers sur Loire (Saumur)
+33 02 41594417
Prices from 2500 Euros

13. Thomas Mahon
http://englishcut.com/

14. Masahito Furuhata
http://m-furuhata.com/
Tokyo based bespoke shoemaker in Akasaka
03 6277 8084

15. Vick Tailor
http://www.boq.jp/sp...vicktailor.html
Higashioku 6-51-11
Arakawa-Ku
Tokyo
03 3893 8332
Suits from 317200 Yen

16. Hayato Osaku
trouser maker
Prices from 10 000 Yen
osaque@jcom.home.ne.jp

#2 brescd01

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Posted 25 May 2009 - 11:53 PM

I find these lists frustrating. How many people on the internet clothing fora have tried more than 2 top-tier tailors? 2? 3? And those invariably have strong personalities and only get along with some of the tailors they try. I once wrote that the fora, and this goes for every source for information about bespoke tailoring, miss the majority of artisans and reward previous attention so that tailors' reputations become amplified out of proportion to their achievements. I mean by that, more that the that less-known tailors are under-appreciated, particularly as a result of their location, than that famous tailors are over-appreciated. My own tailor receives no recognition in the Internet fora because he has no presence on the fora, he is located in Philadelphia, and the most aggressive and productive posters know nothing about him, but he is absolutely (as opposed to relatively) wonderful. the same criticism has been leveled at the Michelin guide for restaurants, geographic favoritism.

Also, too much is made of the tailors' personal artistry, and not enough of their business model, so that most criticisms devolve into the ad hominem. I think, for example, one reason my tailor is so wonderful is that his business model is that of hundreds of ateliers in Italy, his shop looks exactly like pictures once posted of a Sicilian atelier, and this is an old and time-tested model and works well and consistently.

I am not trying to say that no comparison is possible, just that no one makes the effort or has the time or money to devote to such a thing.


#3 Sator

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 01:26 AM

I agree totally. I found the list interesting only because it had names on it I had never heard of before.

Generally, big Savile Row names with long histories get uncritical adulation in a way that is hardly different to the adulation by some of Versace, Armani and Rolex. People like to name drop. So, I am glad that Thomas Mahon got mentioned ahead of A&S, Poole or Hunstsman. I still have no desire to go to any SR tailor, but that is another story for another day.

#4 brescd01

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 02:49 AM

Another problem is one of self-congratulation, where one can see certain characters always flattering their own choices for tailor. My personal opinion is that after one has selected an excellent tailor, everything is in the diligence of the customer to have the wardrobe he wants. My own tailor made me beautiful garments, for example, I wore with trousers that were not coordinated. Now that I have made the effort to match trousers and odd jackets, they look twice as fine. But only my effort and epiphany that I looked...bad...led to this. Tailors are not stylists. A man with some money in his pocket can do serious fashion harm if he does not know what he is doing, at a tailor's.

#5 Sator

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 07:47 PM

QUOTE (brescd01 @ May 26 2009, 02:49 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Tailors are not stylists. A man with some money in his pocket can do serious fashion harm if he does not know what he is doing, at a tailor's.


Not tailors, but certainly cutters are stylists. To draft a pattern and to style a pattern are one and the same thing. Tailors merely make up garments and may never see the client. Most cutters who deal with clients are very conscious of the fact that the garments that their clients wear are their best form of advertisement and do their utmost to flatter.

#6 yachtie

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Posted 27 May 2009 - 01:19 AM

I think that list is missing more than a few.

#7 Mercury

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 10:19 PM

I'll pick up a copy.

It's always interesting hearing about tailors outside the US/UK/HK.

Is it just me, or is there a real shortage of (English) information on bespoke in Europe and Japan?




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