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kicking vents?


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#1 mrmanners

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Posted 14 July 2010 - 07:10 AM

Hello all,

Similar to the below pic (not mine), a recently commissioned jacket has kicking vents.

Posted Image

The tailor has suggested that it may be because the jacket requires a longer back, but I think that the problem may emanate from the side(s) of the jacket, either tugging forward or backward.

What are the most common reasons for kicking vents? What's the most likely culprit if one vent kicks consistently while the other one stays put?

Thanks in advance.

#2 jcsprowls

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Posted 14 July 2010 - 07:38 AM

These are called 'equestrian vents', 'side vents' or 'English vents'. And, they should hang better on a custom-made garment.

A kick pleat is something different http://www.cutterand...l=&fromsearch=1

These are a throwback to equestrian days. The side vent allows the back of the coat to raise over the back of the saddle and the side of the garment to hang smoothly when seated on horseback.
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#3 mrmanners

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Posted 14 July 2010 - 07:57 AM

Yes, I'm referring to the side vents in the captioned pic.

My use of the verb "kicking" may not have been accurate, as the vents don't literally kick. Sorry for any confusion. My question is, why aren't the vents hanging properly and what's the fix?

#4 Kerry

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Posted 14 July 2010 - 08:58 AM

I was going to answer to the fault on this pic but I realised after re-reading that it is not you. It would be better if you post a photo of you in your suit, as there could be differences between "nearly the same issue" and what is actually the problem. I know these as double vents.

#5 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 14 July 2010 - 09:04 AM

There is no fix, the balance of the coat goes to much over the belly point like it is cut for a person with hollow back, the back center line is not straight then.
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#6 Schneidergott

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Posted 14 July 2010 - 02:39 PM

If your vents behave the same way I'd say the jacket is too tight! Especially around the hips and already starting at the waist. Could have many causes, though!

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
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#7 jukes

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Posted 14 July 2010 - 03:52 PM

Hard to tell from this picture but it looks like the balance is wrong, fronts seem to kick up (neck too straight) vents not cut properly.
If the vent opens on one side only, the client has a problem on that side which has not been accounted for. How many fittings ??

Edited by jukes, 14 July 2010 - 03:56 PM.


#8 mrmanners

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Posted 15 July 2010 - 03:20 AM

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm gonna take theatrical tailor's advice and post my pics (forgive me for the quality but it'll have to do for now):

Posted Image

Posted Image

This last pic shows what it would look like buttoned (buttons have yet to be sewn):

Posted Image

Actually I think my suit looks worse from the side than the jacket in the original post. The back of my jacket falls down directly from my shoulder blades (which are prominent) to my butt without any curving in towards the small of my back.

I've already had a few jackets, including this one, made from the same tailor, and am at the basting stage for another. I'd like to correct this issue before proceeding further.

There is no fix, the balance of the coat goes to much over the belly point like it is cut for a person with hollow back, the back center line is not straight then.


Sorry, could you clarify this for the layman? By belly point you mean too much cloth in the front? Also, what's meant by a hollow back - it's tough to visualize the implications of this for a jacket.

#9 jcsprowls

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Posted 15 July 2010 - 04:25 AM

Your vents hang better. But, the problem for you is the front is too short and the front sidebody seam has the wrong angle.
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#10 jukes

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Posted 15 July 2010 - 05:12 AM

Looks like it could be a short back balance, you say you have prominent blades, it does not look like this has been allowed for. If you look at the waist point at the back it is high, because your round back / prominent blades is lifting the back of the coat, hence the vents are pulling away from the fronts. The back needs more length for everything to drop into place.
A big alteration on a finished garment (if there are inlays)

#11 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 15 July 2010 - 05:43 AM

Real question is.... "Has your tailor offered to FIX this?"
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#12 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 15 July 2010 - 07:03 AM

I must disagree with Jukes. The photo seems to show a short front balance and maybe too much back balance has been allowed for the prominent blades, causing the vent to collapse on the hip. If the front balance is lengthened by letting out the shoulder seam say half an inch and taking the same amount out the back balance, this will bring the vent off the hip.

An awkward job on a finished jacket.

#13 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 15 July 2010 - 07:06 AM

Is the side body seam puckering? or is this a play of the light?
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#14 Sator

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Posted 15 July 2010 - 12:58 PM

Yes, balance problems could be the cause. Often local problems need global solutions. In which case, we really need proper shots from the front, back and sides.

The other problem is that it is going to be difficult for the OP to instruct his tailor how to correct the problem, unless he is willing to offer tuition to his tailor on how to cut and fit (and risk being shown the door).

#15 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 15 July 2010 - 10:37 PM

When you cut a coat in the direction to the belly point like for hollow backs you are changing the balance towards to the front.
(Sakko in zu großer Schräglage konstruiert oder mit Herrgöttle geschoben)
The hip girth is too tight in the back, waist suppression probably too strong.

The alteration will be very difficult. He has to live with that.
SG maybe has the experience to alter it. He has seen worst things.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#16 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 15 July 2010 - 11:25 PM

The other problem is that it is going to be difficult for the OP to instruct his tailor how to correct the problem, unless he is willing to offer tuition to his tailor on how to cut and fit (and risk being shown the door).


Well given that Ray Charles can see it (a miracle since he's blind and dead), it shouldn't be that hard for the tailor to say "I'll fix it right away sir" once shown. The trade has grown lax in its product due to the fact that people are so used to mass produced rubbish that anything better than china made is heralded as the pentacle of tailoring. It is not the clients job to instruct the tailor, it also shouldn't be the clients job to return the garment for obvious fitting mistakes. This should have been caught before the client left the shop. Still not impressed by the puckering of the seams either.
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#17 jcsprowls

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Posted 16 July 2010 - 02:49 AM

The puckering of that specific seam is an indication of a poor pattern. Either this client did not receive fittings at the right stages in developing the garment or the fitter didn't understand what was presenting itself.
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#18 Sator

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Posted 16 July 2010 - 07:42 AM

It's still fun for us to diagnose problems on other tailors' work, just as an academic exercise, even if it is a bit like doing an autopsy sometimes.




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