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kicking vents?


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#19 mrmanners

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Posted 16 July 2010 - 08:55 AM

As I said, we are at the basting stage for the next jacket (which also suffers from the same problem). If the correct diagnosis of the problem can be made here, I can communicate that to my tailor who is more than willing to listen, and who can then apply the correct modifications for the basted jacket and any future commissions.

Although this jacket seems to suffer from various balance issues as mentioned by the posters, if a fix can be correctly diagnosed for the sake of an improved pattern for future jackets, I am more than happy to chalk this jacket up to a learning experience.

The fabric by the way is JJ Minnis Airborne, which was purchased at a discount and is feather-light at 6.5-7 ounces. I think it has 1% cashmere in it and feels very nice. None of my other jackets from this tailor has rippling, so I think the lightness of the fabric may be the culprit.

Here are a couple pics with the vent lifted up, which may sway or solidify your previous diagnoses:

Posted Image

Posted Image

The part of the sidebody underneath the vent seems to float away from the buttocks instead of laying flat. I wonder if that is an indication of the primary reason for the vents opening...

Thank you again for any insight you can provide on adjusting this pattern.

#20 Sator

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Posted 16 July 2010 - 08:59 AM

Often local problems have global solutions. The inexperienced fitter will look fruitlessly through a magnifying glass at the local vicinity of the problem, when really what they need to do is to step back and take a look at the bigger picture.

#21 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 16 July 2010 - 09:39 AM

is feather-light at 6.5-7 ounces.


:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

I have T-Shirts with heavier fabric.
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#22 Sator

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Posted 16 July 2010 - 12:12 PM

Personally, think 6-7 Oz feather weight worsted is nice for a tropical lounge suit for scorching hot summer days. It's only when this sort of thing is accepted as standard tailoring cloth that it becomes a bit dodgy.

#23 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 16 July 2010 - 12:53 PM

It's still fun for us to diagnose problems on other tailors' work, just as an academic exercise, even if it is a bit like doing an autopsy sometimes.


Itís fun when we do even worst... its easy to despise someoneís work but some day it comes back, nobody is perfect!

But still to remediate this fault is very difficult. You have to complete dismantle the coat and you need big inlays. So forget it, just loose the waist suppression that might help something... :Star:
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#24 mrmanners

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Posted 17 July 2010 - 03:12 AM

Does the back portion of the side body (underneath the vent) look like it's sitting properly? Does anyone have a picture (Sator? SG?) have a picture of how it's supposed to sit?

#25 stefano

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Posted 20 December 2014 - 04:07 AM

Hello all,

Similar to the below pic (not mine), a recently commissioned jacket has kicking vents.

img0071ba8.jpg

The tailor has suggested that it may be because the jacket requires a longer back, but I think that the problem may emanate from the side(s) of the jacket, either tugging forward or backward.

What are the most common reasons for kicking vents? What's the most likely culprit if one vent kicks consistently while the other one stays put?

Thanks in advance.

the seat measurement is too small that is why usually the top vent doesn't line up vertically with the one underneath

there are some other modifications that you could as well, like pinching the length of the seam where the vent is located

to make go forward a little , but ultimately the seat needs to be enlarged.






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