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Creative Black Tie


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#19 greger

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 03:03 PM

thoughts? I quite like this
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That is sharp. I like it.

Why the jeans? I would expect him to have unique trousers too. His brains must have gone blank when it came to trousers. Seems odd.

#20 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 04:05 PM

Modern Black tie is appalling! Dressing up in outfits trying to act self-important all whilst wearing garments suited only for dinner at home and brandy and cigars after.

I honestly wouldn't dress my dog in such inferiour trappings.
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#21 Artist's Eye

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 07:10 AM

An absolute shocker from Daniel Day Lewis. The colours don't go, the shoes are just unbelievably wrong, the red piping on the lapel is dull and towards crimson.... I hate this look.
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I think the red piping is actually leather (which explains the brown shoes) one or two of Italy's big name fashion houses have often used this trimming effect.

#22 Atgemis

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Posted 11 September 2010 - 02:18 PM

Modern Black tie is appalling! Dressing up in outfits trying to act self-important all whilst wearing garments suited only for dinner at home and brandy and cigars after.

I honestly wouldn't dress my dog in such inferiour trappings.


I quite like and respect your brutality but I have to disagree. Just as the institution of White Tie was dismantled after the War to make way for the Golden Era of dinner suiting, so too are we paving the way for new grounds in the development of textiles and modes of clothing. I think there are some appalling examples out there but that's all part of the fun of it all and hopefully all that will survive is the timeless elegance of a few that tried and succeeded. Quite often when you read contemporary literature or listen to current music you think 'disgusting, what has happened to music, why can't people write anymore' only to find in twenty years time that with time, the residue of that era, much like a distillery, will give you the zeitgeist and cast away the rubbish. Bringing that back to 'Creative Black Tie' we see that through some of this terrible stuff, we've seen the rebirth of quilting, the rebirth of Midnight Blue in tuxedos, uses of elaborate patterns and weaves. Yes, some of this is gaudy, but some of it will filter through to become very influential.

I was recently in Barcelona, and I went to the apartment block built by Gaudi. At the time, not one person would buy the apartments because they found them too absurd and too different from what they were accustomed to. Close to 100 years later, they remain a breathtaking reminder of what the mind is capable of achieving. I say bring it on re: Creative black tie, and let us see what comes of it. And if it means that the average Joe on the street let's go of his sneakers and puts on a pair of spats.... I think it's a step in the right direction.

#23 Atgemis

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Posted 11 September 2010 - 02:28 PM

That is sharp. I like it.

Why the jeans? I would expect him to have unique trousers too. His brains must have gone blank when it came to trousers. Seems odd.


Agreed. I think he didn't have trousers to match the jacket so he saw his jeans and thought 'this will have to do'. also, i think, not sure, that the photo was taken in Cannes, which may mean that he was travelling and didn't pack properly....

#24 Lokar

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Posted 11 September 2010 - 07:03 PM

The problem is, you can look at some modern "creative" black tie and not think it's awful (while a lot of it does), but I've yet to see anything that actually looks better than a traditional, well fitting black tie rig with a proper evening waistcoat.

#25 greger

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Posted 12 September 2010 - 01:04 PM

This whole concept of don't stand out, or be different, and yet white tie requires a top hat. Good luck in don't stand out or be different in todays world. Some of these clothes were showy clothes. And who today was around to see what people wore 50-100 years ago of these fancy clothes? Old cutting books have two purposes and that is for the beginner the simple basic garments and for older cutter some newer techniques. But what did the cutters actually cut? You can take the basic style lines and shape them into many unique white tie or black tie garments. Some of these books say to stay away from the wild, but where is the line of wild? I have couple of quarterly cutting books by CTDA and they clearly are part of fashions. There are many different futures to cutting the summer white black tie. There is no doubt that the CTDA pushed fashions because they wanted their customers to come back with more money. So, they want people out of style. What is the Traditional Rig? The elementary pattern in the books for the beginner? In the MTOC it says in the body coat section ...there is much scope for the cutter to excerise his style sence. These garments lend themselves to artistic treatment.... What it boils down to is some people are good with the old, new, or both, some are good part of the time, and some are no good at all and really need somebody else to dress them. Some of the pictures above are terrible, probably because these people know nothing about these sort of cloths and were confused about what and how to wear them. 50 years ago the bums on the street knew how to dress in these clothes, today few people know. So, who do you ask? The rules of the past don't apply today, and, besides, they were all ways changing, anyway. Good taste is good art.

#26 Atgemis

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Posted 12 September 2010 - 08:12 PM

T Good taste is good art.


Look, the whole black tie tradition comes from Protestant Englishmen who were trying to appear pious and break away from the previous generations of more vibrant and decadent evening wear. So before black tie there were more fanciful clothes worn, and now with black tie slowly being relaxed, it's now high time that a new code will be born, and just as your last mark said, good taste is good art, it follows that those things which are are not in good taste will fall at the wayside. I really don't see why cannot put colour back into the evening. The one thing I DO love about Black Tie, is that it is like an Aristotlean formula for a story plot which the writer must conform to but within which boundaries he must fully express himself. This is what has made black tie such a delicate dance; that because everyone is constrained by the rough guideline, it is then what they do within that guideline that sets them apart. But in saying ALL that, if a new code of evening wear is born, I will be there to follow it.

#27 greger

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Posted 13 September 2010 - 12:50 PM

Color is fine with me. As you say it was in the past. The black and whiters departed the rules and made their own, so why not people today as you say? So much was trimmed back to sleek, well, sleek has run its time, why not the other way now with something new. The history of tailoring is interesting, why try to put and end to new history? The modern stuff today that manufactured makes how can tailors do it even better so people come to them? Have tailors stopped thinking? In the old days tailors and customers ran the show, not the manufactures, because there weren't any manufactures. From my perspective of tailoring and its history the tailors have jumped ship. Being stuck with the clothes of the 30s and 40s no wonder why they are becoming history. Some of these old clothes are coming back, but, for how long? Technology itself might put tailors in the history books. In one of the Back To The Future movies he falls into the water and when he gets out the clothes blow dry themselves dry. That would be a nice future here in the wet Northwest weather next to the pacific. Some people think they can force people to wear what they think they should- get to much of that and we will have another Hippie rebellion and then we will probably see another grunge fad. Power can be destructive. I think the younger males want to get dressier somehow and what that will be we shall see. Maybe the tailors need to deside if they want to be on board or out of business.

#28 Atgemis

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Posted 17 September 2010 - 09:33 PM

Okay, this is not black tie but what do you think of this?
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Also, I'd be happy to hear what you think of some of the suits I have on my blog www.lenoeudpapillon.com like this jacket

http://www.lenoeudpa...on.blogspot.com

Edited by Atgemis, 17 September 2010 - 09:36 PM.


#29 I.Brackley

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Posted 17 September 2010 - 10:13 PM

Also, I'd be happy to hear what you think of some of the suits I have on my blog

http://www.lenoeudpa...on.blogspot.com


Either this photo has been somehow flipped (mirrored) or someone has been stealing their Mum's clothes!
I used to do that. When I was a 17 year old goth kid sneaking into clubs.

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This one made me fear for the future of the waistcoat. The terror it holds is that through endless repetition of a fault in proportion (the waistcoat being too short or the trousers too low, take your pick) the appearance of shirt and belt buckle below the waistcoat is the new default. I guess this is how fashion changes but if the end result is to make one look like a child stuffed into their formalwear post-growth spurt then I think a reassesment is in order:

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It may also be an Edwardian hang-up but the watch chain suggests work. This is supposed to be worn to a party, relax, have another drink; wanting to check the time gives the impression to your hosts that you have more pressing matters elsewhere. Perhaps it's New Years, the one occation where an unhealthy fixation on the exact hour is de rigure? But that belt clip through the buttonhole? :no:
This pic is from a catalogue, yes?

That said, there is ample evidence shown here that contra-conventions such as the white tie w/"evening sack coat" is perfectly viable, contrary to my earlier supposition. I stand pleasantly corrected. :hi:
I also like the use of scarfs to add colour. Quite raffish. :spiteful:
"The possibilities that exist in the portrayal of personality constitute the strongest, and in fact the only unanswerable argument for the supremacy of Custom Tailoring"

-F.T. Croonborg, c. 1917

#30 I.Brackley

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Posted 17 September 2010 - 10:31 PM

I used to do that. When I was a 17 year old goth kid sneaking into clubs.

[


I at least had the decency, even at that tender age, to not be caught out in broad daylight :pinch:

(From a totally different blog) This was at NY Fashion Week.
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Edited by I.Brackley, 18 September 2010 - 01:51 AM.

"The possibilities that exist in the portrayal of personality constitute the strongest, and in fact the only unanswerable argument for the supremacy of Custom Tailoring"

-F.T. Croonborg, c. 1917

#31 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 18 September 2010 - 12:35 AM

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This is my biggest grip over low rise trousers with a three piece ensemble. Waistcoats when lengthened to cover the "grave stone" look out of balance and slovenly, like a 1930's clown. So if you wear three piece, please for the sake of all that is holy, you have to go with high-rise trousers!

Honestly I find high-rise trousers to be more comfortable once gotten used to, no binding over the hip bone and it also makes one look taller.
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#32 Nishijin

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Posted 18 September 2010 - 09:08 PM

Reading the article about top coats in Man about town :

You wouldn't were tan suede shoes with your tail suit, would you ? Oh, you would, would you ?



Well... not tail suit, indeed, but still... :acute:
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#33 Charles R Bingley

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 03:58 AM

In as much as I can recall, I think it was his father's and he was wearing it in memory of him.


Isn't that a big no no? You run the risk of people thinking you are an MBE when you're not.

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Nothwithstanding the shirt peepage (and everything else for that matter), the watch chain in incorrectly clipped on.

Edited by Charles R Bingley, 21 September 2010 - 04:01 AM.

Causam cedare non habet eo

#34 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 05:13 AM

Amen Mr. Bingley!
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#35 greger

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 07:38 AM

These are all in error. Where is the bolo ties.

#36 NJS

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 09:14 AM

I cannot understand how someone like Day Lewis with all that talent as an actor and all that cash can end up looking like a hobo gate-crashing a hobos' convention...
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