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#19 amateursarto

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 01:42 PM

That looks like A-thread. A192 was replaced by Mara 150 - they're the same thickness. Mara has a smooth finish; A thread has a fuzzy finish.

For shirts, I use white 98% of the time. I only use dye-to-match (DTM) when the white would appear as a style detail.


Though I'm no industry pro, I was going to say the same thing. If there is a hint of white in the weave of the shirt, use white cotton thread. It's classic and in most places readily available.
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#20 jcsprowls

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 02:53 PM

The rule of thumb when selecting thread for sewing is to sew with the darkest possible shade because light shades appear as a style detail. That said: shirts are mostly white. It's very rare that DTM is necessary.

When first starting out, most people want to find precise shade matching. In practice, it's not that difficult. You'd be surprised how often black and white are enough.
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#21 hymo

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Posted 21 November 2010 - 12:04 AM

I took the trouble to get to this place called Fadenlauf in an obscure corner of Hamburg. I found Guetermann Tera 180 there. This is a pink linen shirt sewn up by my tailor with that thread.

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#22 jcsprowls

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Posted 21 November 2010 - 01:42 AM

Tera? That's a polyamide thread for shoes and utility bags. I thought we just got done talking about Mara 150?
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#23 hymo

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Posted 22 November 2010 - 12:15 AM

I'm so sorry, I meant Mara 180. So silly of me.

#24 hymo

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Posted 22 November 2010 - 12:16 AM

These new generation threads really are much superior to the old spun polyesters. They are also translucent, which allows the shirt colour to show through.

#25 P.T.

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Posted 22 November 2010 - 06:28 AM

I've been using Aurifil 50wt all-cotton quilting thread. It's what Alex Kabbaz recommends. I don't have much to compare it to, but it seems to sew nicely. It's expensive and it may not be fine enough for this thread. That said, I've compared the 50wt cotton Aurifil to 40wt polyester serger thread (Maxi-Lock). I realize the Maxi-Lock is a little heavier but it isn't noticeably thicker, and it's probably two or three times as strong--as well as being about 1/15th the price.

So I wouldn't be opposed in the slightest to trying a lighter-weight all-polyester thread. It doesn't have to be super-duper fine 180-wt or anything like that. Any recommendations for something that's commonly available online in the US?
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#26 Hedges

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Posted 22 November 2010 - 06:50 AM

I've also been trying out the Aurifil 50wt and have been very happy with the results.

Gutermann Mara is also great, if you aren't a cotton thread purest.

Oshman Brothers has a huge selection of Gutermann thread online and in their shop.
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#27 jcsprowls

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Posted 22 November 2010 - 05:34 PM

MaxiLock is lint on a string!

Okay, so that's harsh. But, I speak from experience. I think you should test a variety of threads to see what meets your performance criteria.
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#28 P.T.

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Posted 23 November 2010 - 05:30 AM

MaxiLock is lint on a string!

Okay, so that's harsh. But, I speak from experience. I think you should test a variety of threads to see what meets your performance criteria.


I didn't mean for my post to sound like a ringing endorsement of maxi-lock thread--I was just noting that it was surprisingly strong. I haven't made any shirts with it--in fact, the Aurifil is pretty much the only thread I've ever used. I'm a newbie.

I haven't had any luck locating someone online that sells the Mara 150--though there's plenty of sources for the A192. So, I may try that. Thanks for the help.

#29 Hedges

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Posted 23 November 2010 - 06:36 AM

I haven't had any luck locating someone online that sells the Mara 150--though there's plenty of sources for the A192. So, I may try that. Thanks for the help.



From what I've been told that's because Gutermann and it's retailers are still slowly transitioning from A-thread to Mara.

Oshman Brothers sells white Mara-150 by the large cone, but the smaller 1000m spindles are still a mix of A192 and Mara depending on the color.

#30 P.T.

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Posted 23 November 2010 - 06:55 AM

Oshman Brothers sells white Mara-150 by the large cone, but the smaller 1000m spindles are still a mix of A192 and Mara depending on the color.


Thank you -- the real-world experience with the vendor is really helpful. I don't see the large cones on their website, though. Can you point me to them?

#31 Hedges

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Posted 23 November 2010 - 03:55 PM

Thank you -- the real-world experience with the vendor is really helpful. I don't see the large cones on their website, though. Can you point me to them?


You're right, doesn't seem to be on the website. I would shoot them an email because they had it in their shop here in NY a couple months ago.

#32 Che Pasticcio

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Posted 09 December 2010 - 06:42 AM

You're right, doesn't seem to be on the website. I would shoot them an email because they had it in their shop here in NY a couple months ago.


Is it difficult to find lower grade Gutermann thread as well that isn't sold on the "small spool" as someone mentioned? I'm learning so I don't plan on sewing too fine of a shirt, but rather an 80-100 pinpoint.

#33 jcsprowls

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Posted 09 December 2010 - 09:28 AM

Gutermann doesn't make "low grade" thread. They sell it in several dispensary sizes depending on the application (e.g. home or industry). You can buy cobs (those are the 1Km spools) from online suppliers like Eli Yawitz, Atlanta Thread, Wawak, etc.

It's the size of the thread that matters. When you sew a seam, you need to think about constraints. I use a fine thread, a short stitch and a small needle on shirtings. I adjust the stitch length depending on the amount of flexibility or bursting strength I need the seam to perform at.

If you use a sz: 120 thread - which is what most of the online suppliers I listed sell - you would use a sz: 70 needle to sew. And, the length of the stitch you choose affects the flexibility or bursting strength of the seam.

Generally, the thread should fail before the cloth. If your cloth fails before the thread, you could well have "nailed" the garment together.

Edited by jcsprowls, 09 December 2010 - 09:31 AM.

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#34 Che Pasticcio

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Posted 09 December 2010 - 11:33 AM

Where can I read a little more about the thread size-needle size relationship? I bought some Gutermann thread today at a local store, and it says C Ne 50:

http://www.gueterman...lfaden__en.html

Is that a correct number to go by to determine needle size?

I have the feeling I will be told to dump it, but it's just in the mean time. I will try to open an account with Gutermann to order some Mara 120-150 so I have something for future use.

Edited by Che Pasticcio, 09 December 2010 - 11:39 AM.


#35 jcsprowls

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Posted 09 December 2010 - 12:46 PM

You were so close!

The link to follow was: http://www.gueterman..._Prospekte.html

Each of the guides gives suggested needle size along with the thread size.

If you only need one 5Km cone of Mara 150, let me know. I'll tack it onto my next order.

Edited by jcsprowls, 09 December 2010 - 12:48 PM.

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#36 Che Pasticcio

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Posted 10 December 2010 - 07:43 AM

You were so close!

The link to follow was: http://www.gueterman..._Prospekte.html

Each of the guides gives suggested needle size along with the thread size.

If you only need one 5Km cone of Mara 150, let me know. I'll tack it onto my next order.



Thank you for the offer. I was thinking about getting three colors, though. However, I'm a little confused now. I called Gutermann and they sent me a .doc file of the distributors. I called all of them and some didn't have 120 or 150 while others did. I'm not sure whether it was Eli Yawitz or a different distributor that told me A192 and Mara 150 were the same thing. So, if it's 1000m, it's a mix of A192 and Mara 150? I also asked Gutermann about opening an account and they told me that I would need to order weekly in order to open one. As a result, I'm thinking about ordering from Oshman, Wawak, or Eli Yawitz, but I would appreciate some clarification before purchasing what I think might be Mara 150 when in fact it's A192 or A282, the latter being the equivalent of Mara 120, as I was told.

Edit: I did find this information on the Gutermann site, J, but I was referring to the needle size. For instance, you mentioned 120 with a 70, would 100 be used with 80 or could you still use 120 with 80 for a heaver weight fabric?

Edit again: I just spoke with someone from Oshamnn and they told me that the names Mara 150 and A192 are synonymous, so I'm not sure what to think, since Hedges a few posts above mentions a mix of these two in a 1000m spindle.

Edited by Che Pasticcio, 10 December 2010 - 07:49 AM.





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