I recently came upon an article detailing among other things how gussets in the armpit area were used in Norfolk jackets for high mobility, including a reference on the Fedora Lounge about their use on the Burberry jacket of mountain-climber George Mallory (died on Mt. Everest). http://www.threadsma...8/cut-on-gusset
The gusset shown as an example in the article (below) seems to spring out of a very low armhole however... I'm wondering, do or did tailors ever combine a very high, fitted armscye with a gusset to achieve high mobility? If so, am I incorrect that there might be a problem of the gusset 'bagging out' of the armpit area it's supposed to stay concealed in? With regards to that, I saw a Phitwell jacket made by Dege on the londonlounge that has pleats on the back which spring shut with concealed elastic cords (see: http://www.thelondon...php?f=36&t=6309 )... would such mechanics be possible in an armpit gusset? Or is there a better solution?
btw, are there any tailors who make Norfolk or shooting jackets anymore besides Dege?
Replying to an old, but interesting post from 2010, concerning gussets and pivot sleeves.
I have just a couple of days ago, drafted out a golf jacket with pivot sleeves from Cutter & tailors, A.G. Chaudry 1970 book, pages 47-49.
The jacket body coat drafts armscye seems to be cut in a similar manner as the coat in the photo above.
The draft that I am referring, was also posted by Sator under, "The Golf Jacket". See page 48 of the drafthttp://www.cutterand...h=1
I was unable to upload the photo of the draft I made for you to view in this reply.
This original draft from the C&T Book that I have is missing directions for the final points of 18 through 22 on the sleeve draft, and collar diagram are missing.
A person interested in this draft would have to finish that yourself, unless someone on the forum has this missing information they would share with us.
Edited by jeffrey2117, 01 May 2013 - 08:58 PM.
"An intelligent man knows he is ignorant, a ignorant man knows he is intelligent".