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A Trouser Suit for a Young Lady


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#1 Sator

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 06:35 PM

This draft by Kurt Czujewicz comes from Das Schneiderhandwerk 5th May 1968.

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All measures are in centimetres. The draft is nett and all seams must be allowed for - except at the armscye and the sleeve head.

The Principle Measures

Height (KpH) = 164 cm
Lesser Bust (kl BU) = 86 cm
Greater Bust (gr BU) = 92 cm
Waist (TU) = 72 cm
Seat (GU) = 98 cm

The Calculation of the Proportionate Measures

A. Length Measures
Depth of scye = 1/8 kl BU + 1/4 waist length (Tlg)
Waist length = 1/4 KpH - 2 (allowing for 2 cm high heels) = 39 cm
Depth of seat + Tlg + 1/2 of Tlg = 58.5 cm
Length = 1/2 KpH - 11 = 71 cm

Shoulder Height
Forepart = 1/8 kl BU + 4.5 = 14.8
Back = 1/8 kl BU + 7.5 = 17.8

Shoulder Length
Forepart = 1/10 kl BU + 5 = 13.6
Back = 1/10th kl BU + 6 = 14.6
Front bust length = Tlg + 4 = 43
Front sleeve length = Tlg + 1 = 40

B. Curved Measures
Back neck = 1/10th half kl BU + 2.5 = 6.8
Armscye diameter = 1/8 kl BU + 2 = 12.8
Width of back = 1/5th kl BU + 0.5 = 17.7
Width of chest = 1/5 gr BU + 2.5 = 20.9

C. Control Measures
On the chest construction line
= 1/2 gr BU + 5.5 = 51.5

On the waist construction line
1/2 TU + 5 to 7 = 42

On the seat construction line
= 1/2 GU + 3 = 52

The Construction

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The Back

W-RT = Depth of scye
W-T = Length of waist
W-G = Depth of seat
W-L = Length
W-W1 = Move up 1 cm to draw in the centre back seam
T-T1 = 2 cm inward displacement for the waist
G-G1 = 2.5 cm displacement on an angle
T-L1 and T1-W1 = Join to one another in a straight line to draft the centre back seam
W1-H = Move upward by 1/10th of depth of scye
R-RB = Width of back
RB-S2 = Place amount equal to 1/2 armscye diameter + 1 cm here
RB-S = 5cm, height of side point
S-S1 = Displace 0.75 cm sidewards
RB-SH = Shoulder height
H1-SL1 = Shoulder seam length + 1.5 for the shoulder dart
S2-G2 = Square down

The Forepart

S3-G5 = Square down
S3-AT = Armscye diameter - 1
AT-BB = Width of bust
BB-B = Chest point
BB-L8 & VLB = Square out
VL-VBL = Place measure of front bust length here
VBL-HS = The width of the back neck is placed here
HS-B2 = The amount taken out for the bust dart is 1/10th gr BU + 1
AT-ÄE = 4 cm for the sleeve pitch mark
AT-SH1 = Height of the shoulder
B2-SL2 = Measure out length of shoulder
HS-B1 = Place the distance of B2-B3 here

The determination of the panel seams, the amount of waist suppression and the measure of the seat will now follow from this.

AT-ÜB = = 1/4 TU, after which there remains an excess of 2.5 cm
T9-T12 = 12 cm
T8-T9 = Elevate the waist construction by 1cm
T9-T10 = Displacement inwards of the waist by 1.5 cm
T11-T13 = Take out the remaining excess of 2.5 cm
The half of the size of the excess is removed the seat construction line between G6 and G7
T7-T6 = Elevate the waist construction line about 1 cm
T6-T5 = 1.5 cm inwards displacement of the waist
T4-T2 = Take out 2 cm
The completed draft will follow from this. All remaining points can determined from the diagram.

The Sleeve

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The sleeve is drafted according to the armscye circumference. In this case, this measures 43 cm.

K-KT = Height of sleeve crown = 1/3 armscye circumference + 1
K-1/3 = 1/3 of this amount
KT-ÄE = 4 = sleeve pitch mark
KT-L = Front sleeve length
L-L1 = 3 cm
E = The half of the distance of ÄE-L1
ÄE-ÄB = The sleeve width of 1/2 Au + 1 is measured out on an angle
All other points are as per the diagram

The Slacks

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The Topsides

B-F5 = Side length
F5-S = Inseam length + 1. This length will be necessary to square up the topside at the inseam
F-K = 1/2 inseam length + 1/5 of half the inseam length
G= 1/3 of the length of S-B
S1 = The half of this amount
S2-S4 = 1/10 half Gu - 1 cm
S1-S2 = Square out and extend upwards
B2-B3 = Displace inwards by 1
B3-G1 = Join with a straight line
B3-B = 1/4 of waist measure + 2. This amount is measured out for the front dart
B-B1 = Displace upwards by 1
B3-B4 = displace by 1
F1-F3 = 1/2 hem width - 2
K2-K3 = Displace by 2
K6-K4 = Displace by 2
S2-S3 = Displace by 1 cm and square out
K4-K5 = Displace 1 cm and square out.
All of the points of the topside on the diagram follow thereafter

The Underside

B5 = the half of measure of B3-B6
G1-G0 = Displace in by 1 cm
Go through to G5 = join with straight line. The length of B5-B7 is lengthened by the amount found by the division of the length B3-B6

Measure of the Width of Seat

G1-G = measure out this distance and place at G2. G2-G3 should equal 1/2 GU + 2.5
G3-G4 measure out this distance + 3 and place this between G4-G5
F1-F = 2
F3-F4 = 2
K2-K = 1
K6-K7 = 1

The seams of the underside should be completed with graceful lines. All remaining points are as per the diagram. The shortening the trouser rise, which is according to taste, and in this case 4 cm, is shown on top and undersides by the area shaded by diagonal lines.

Full original text:

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#2 posaune

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 07:58 PM

Sharp guy!
he uses the lesser bust for his calculations for the armhole diameter, shoulder and back neck and width.
I'll have to do some math to see how this works out.
lg
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#3 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 04 November 2010 - 07:22 AM

I like the idea of using a chest measure as well as a bust measure,I have used this method for some time now.

It makes sense that the basic structure of the pattern is based on a more proportinate measure than the bust. You can have a very slim woman with a large bust, and a woman with a large bone structure who has a large frame but has little or no bust at all, They may both measure the same if a bust measure is taken and to use this one measure to cut a pattern for both women, i,e. 98cm bust. The smaller womans' pattern is going to be loose fitting in all areas except the bust,while the larger woman is going to have a pattern that will be more in proportion to her size.

using a system based on chest and waist, gives you the option to place the bust provision in the correct place, while the rest of the garment is in proportion to the chest.

#4 posaune

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 01:46 AM

Yes Mansie,
true words, sigh. I thought this method would make it easier - because it makes sense.
Where do you measure the chest and how do you calculate?
I have calculated with measurements for big busted. Because I did not know what he meant with kl. Bu - I took a) under bust and b) over bust. It did not work. Maybe he has other formulas for bigger ladies?

Lg
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#5 greger

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 05:53 AM

Chest measure is above the bust. Bust measure would be the largest. Perhaps, generally the bust is 2 inches (5cm) or more- larger than the chest..

I gave somebody Poulins system which goes by the bust and he asked me about different measurements he came up with elsewhere, so I said to make adjustments where he though needed and how much and add inlays for a pin fit. He did very well putting the cloth where it belongs.

#6 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 01:07 PM

:Praying: :Confused:
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#7 greger

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 05:53 PM

:Praying: :Confused:



Are you saying Germans measure differently?

#8 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 08 December 2015 - 12:34 PM

I was working in his cutting school for a little bit. It was an improved Rundschau System but too much simplified. So you need to cut the Rundschau-System in the background to know where to find the mistakes of this system. Off from the proportions the system becomes tricky.


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