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Womens trouser toile


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#1 rs232

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Posted 12 November 2010 - 06:09 PM

She has wide hips and a slightly bulgy stomach. Flat buttocks, and I'm going to be using hefty cloth, so I've forgone darts at the back. Slimmer cut than I normally do on mens trousers.

In the photos (click to enlarge), I fiddled with a few seams 5-10mm here and there on draft and made the adjustments to the left leg only to get a better silhouette, before the model became bored. So, the left leg is what I'm working from. I also did a very bad job of pressing the seam at the hip (got distracted by something else), and stretched and scorched the cloth. It wasn't wobbly at the pocket area before that happened.

Back, side, front:
Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

The rear is still slightly knock-kneed and pulling. It is my intention to let out 10mm at the inside knee back panel, graded along the red line. There is some bulk at the lower back which I will take in, and the seat is too tight and is causing the rear to hang badly, so I will loosen it as marked. The very front of the crotch isn't great and I'm tempted to go in 5mm there too.

Posted Image

Any other ideas? She wants something that minimises the width of her hips with a shirt tucked-in, so I'm trying to do reasonably slim legs. The real cloth won't arrive for a couple of months, so I won't be able to post the finished product this year; sorry.

Edited by rs232, 13 November 2010 - 08:23 AM.

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#2 zokiTzar

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Posted 12 November 2010 - 08:27 PM

your image links are broken
on previous posts as well

#3 rs232

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Posted 13 November 2010 - 08:25 AM

^Sorry, I've adjusted the codes. It did work when I previewed it, but I guess the hosting site doesn't like me posting the larger versions directly.

#4 Terri

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Posted 13 November 2010 - 10:40 AM

It may be useful to post a photo of the pattern as well.

#5 A TAILOR

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Posted 13 November 2010 - 02:56 PM

if you slim the legs, the hips will look larger by comparison.

#6 posaune

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Posted 13 November 2010 - 08:49 PM

rs232
The pulling from the left side (I hope I have it right this time) comes from the different hip shape. The left hip is deeper and more roomy than the right. The pants sits the hips on the thighs in front and the calves are protruding - she pushes a bit the lower body to the front.
You should let out the side seams till knee and pin it right.
The upper back you form with darts - not with the back crotch seam - leave it alone.
The front crotch curve is to shallow because the bone is pushed forward. Curve it more.
lg
pa
osaune
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#7 rs232

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 05:35 AM

rs232
The pulling from the left side (I hope I have it right this time) comes from the different hip shape. The left hip is deeper and more roomy than the right. The pants sits the hips on the thighs in front and the calves are protruding - she pushes a bit the lower body to the front.
You should let out the side seams till knee and pin it right.
The upper back you form with darts - not with the back crotch seam - leave it alone.
The front crotch curve is to shallow because the bone is pushed forward. Curve it more.
lg
pa
osaune


Good point on the front crotch seam; you're right. I'll hollow out the curve more.

I'm still tempted to just use the side seam for shaping rather than darts because surfaces are rather flat in that region. She can still sit comfortably., but I'm willing to give darts a go. I'll adjust the draft to put them in, as per your advice and advice here.

I'm still not happy with the balance of the back, so I'll make some adjustments there to move some room from the outside to the inside.

#8 Terri

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:59 AM

I'm still tempted to just use the side seam for shaping rather than darts


I'm not sure why you are doing this - back darts are there for a reason. You can certainly transfer the dart to another location such as in a yoke, but in trying to supress only the side seams you may never get the fit quite right.

The garment must be big enough to go around the largest part of the body and the darts then form where there is the greatest need for reduction.
Typically, in order of size,
CB (which in essence is a dart from the hip level up)
the mid back above the seat,
the side seams,
mid front and centre front.

Of course different body shapes may require more or less darting in those places.
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#9 rs232

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 12:23 PM

Darts it is then. Give me a couple of days.

#10 rs232

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Posted 30 November 2010 - 06:14 AM

Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

Side seam is crooked but easily fixed (Added patches due to cutting error). Legs seem to be hanging straight and true; no issues walking or sitting in various positions either. Had a bit of trouble with the darts with fabric folds on the lower back until I started putting them on a gentle bias. Thanks Posuane and Terri (I used your recent women's trouser blog post for ideas).

Any major outstanding issues that I haven't seen?

Edit: Martin is doing something similar! Albeit a lot more nicely!

Edited by rs232, 30 November 2010 - 06:35 AM.

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#11 saveira

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 12:15 PM

Hi,

You have uploaded three images of your work. Hats off to you because you have done something I have not done since I joined the forum. I would like to correct that and post something that I have sewn. Tell me, what did you do to upload your images? I can't seem to access information unless there is http written in front of it

.

She has wide hips and a slightly bulgy stomach. Flat buttocks, and I'm going to be using hefty cloth, so I've forgone darts at the back. Slimmer cut than I normally do on mens trousers.

In the photos (click to enlarge), I fiddled with a few seams 5-10mm here and there on draft and made the adjustments to the left leg only to get a better silhouette, before the model became bored. So, the left leg is what I'm working from. I also did a very bad job of pressing the seam at the hip (got distracted by something else), and stretched and scorched the cloth. It wasn't wobbly at the pocket area before that happened.

Back, side, front:
Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

The rear is still slightly knock-kneed and pulling. It is my intention to let out 10mm at the inside knee back panel, graded along the red line. There is some bulk at the lower back which I will take in, and the seat is too tight and is causing the rear to hang badly, so I will loosen it as marked. The very front of the crotch isn't great and I'm tempted to go in 5mm there too.

Posted Image

Any other ideas? She wants something that minimises the width of her hips with a shirt tucked-in, so I'm trying to do reasonably slim legs. The real cloth won't arrive for a couple of months, so I won't be able to post the finished product this year; sorry.






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