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The English High Rise Trouser


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#19 Nishijin

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Posted 22 November 2010 - 11:59 PM

To make 1:1 patterns in ink is nonsense unless you will hang it on the wall like a picture.


But stamping them is not ? I fail to see your logic there... You like to stamp, I like to ink. Be kind to a young man's fancy :Big Grin:
The whole pattern does not need to be inked : the lines where you cut are cut out anyway. A few lines only would be inked, such as darts, pockets or grainline. And all the writing, which is the whole point.
And it serve no other puropose than to make something nice. Today, I use only pencil, and it is enough (for bench tailoring. Manufacturing production patterns are a whole different topic).
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#20 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 23 November 2010 - 10:49 AM

Stamping is easier and more fun and more expensive :Big Grin:

The Queen of the pockets. I think it looks nice enough. First pocket after 21 years without needle. It took me awhile to remember the steps...

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#21 jukes

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Posted 23 November 2010 - 05:36 PM

Shouldnt that be King of the pockets :Batting Eyelashes:
Nice work, its amazing what you can remember after such a long break, i found the drafting came back quicker
than the sewing.

#22 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 24 November 2010 - 12:13 AM

Drafting comes back easier cause you always can erase a line, the making is the difficuty. The hand motoric must do what the brains thinks.
I takes me quite a time to figure it out how it was.

The pipe/jet pockets "Paspeltasche" is in my opinion the king of the pockets, most difficult to achieve. Maybe there is a more difficult one or Juke finds another pocket nicer to be the Queen of the pockets. But for me the "Paspeltasche" is the nicest.

Wait for the back pocket, lets see how it comes out...
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#23 zokiTzar

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Posted 24 November 2010 - 01:08 AM

great looking pocket zuschneider
nice thread
that is what I was asking in forum thread, to see such examples of skill like here or jefferys blog
in detail is amazing inspiration to us who learn from this forum
thanks for sharing

Edited by zokiTzar, 24 November 2010 - 01:10 AM.


#24 Nishijin

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Posted 24 November 2010 - 01:24 AM

Very nice pocket indeed.

Now the true king of pockets : make the same, but curved and not straight. That I still have problems doing really nice.

Zoki is right, we don't put enough of this kind of stuff. I have to take pictures, too...

Was this really your first one ? You didn't make one or two on scrap cloth, to remember the process ? That's impressive...
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#25 jukes

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Posted 24 November 2010 - 02:24 AM

Drafting comes back easier cause you always can erase a line, the making is the difficuty. The hand motoric must do what the brains thinks.
I takes me quite a time to figure it out how it was.

The pipe/jet pockets "Paspeltasche" is in my opinion the king of the pockets, most difficult to achieve. Maybe there is a more difficult one or Juke finds another pocket nicer to be the Queen of the pockets. But for me the "Paspeltasche" is the nicest.

Wait for the back pocket, lets see how it comes out...


How about a Bellows pocket on your next jacket

#26 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 24 November 2010 - 08:41 AM

This is a different kind of trouser, will be worn only with suspenders/braces. The waist is 2cm higher than normal, so the dart gets longer.
The back of the trouser has renoprotection. You see those trousers in old movies from the 30thies. I have modernized the cut a little bit but it is still the original English High Rise trouser, exactly from the old cutting books of 1936 but improved with a more modern cutting system. A traditional expensive suit has to have those trousers. So I am reproducing them and figure out how to set them together efficiently. The trouser comes with a English or German lining, has to be made by hand. The fly only comes with buttons. The pattern is calculated without seams so I can evenly add inlays on the long seams.

The pattern stamps are copies of the cutting school I was working in 1986 I added a few more than the school had, maybe they got lost there. I had made about 55 Stamps I think. Every child likes stamping somewhere, so let me stamp my patterns and I remember the old time then. When pattern are sold they have to have those stamps for the customers in order to look professional. Since I am traditional and conservative old I choose the old English fracture font. The stamps are just there to make my day and enjoy my work.


DZ

I am very impressed, it is good to see a setup with such dedication, your customers can only be impressed also. Good luck in the future.

#27 Sator

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Posted 24 November 2010 - 09:24 AM

DZ

I am very impressed, it is good to see a setup with such dedication, your customers can only be impressed also. Good luck in the future.


1+ :hi:

#28 greger

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Posted 24 November 2010 - 12:55 PM

The pocket is really nice. Do you ever try matching the stripes?

So you have been wearing manufactured clothes for about 21 years? That must have been an uncomfortable 21 years.

#29 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 08:18 AM

The pocket flap with body shape, diminished lining edge.
The flap is not easy to make, check it out.

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#30 posaune

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 09:24 PM

He he Zuschneider, that is not one of the eight seams of a pants where you said you will use the serger!
Well done.
What kind of interlining did you use?
lg
posaune

#31 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 26 November 2010 - 07:59 AM

He he Zuschneider, that is not one of the eight seams of a pants where you said you will use the serger!
Well done.
What kind of interlining did you use?
lg
posaune


Since der serger works so nice I have found more seams... :Big Grin:
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#32 greger

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Posted 26 November 2010 - 01:05 PM

Machinery is fun. That is why I think children should learn to hand sew before they know there is machinery to do it for them.

#33 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 08 December 2010 - 12:55 PM

Today I tried a couple of button holes. After 21 years of silence the fourth attempt pleased my eyes. I would give myself an A minus cause they are not perfect.
I make another couple and they should be perfect. Today is was just the beginning, didn't know it comes back so fast, 21 years ago I did my last button holes.
With 25 years I did the same quality already. My master was looking like a truck, he never had an apprentice making button holes out of nothing.

I would say: Anything else what looks worst then mine button hole can only be considered as hole but not for buttons.
I used R753 and some kind of semi gimp from jc. If you don't have gimp just twist 2 strings of R753 together, works as the same and is called Quispel.

There is no advise to give, just stitch evenly as most as you can in the edges of the hole and pull the thread, either you can do it after 20 years or 1 Week or never.
I learned the button stitching in a couple of days when I was 25, my master showed me twice only. What I can do you can do, nothing wrong with that.

Machs mit machs nach machs besser, hiess die Sendung in Osten mit Addi... :crazy:
Hoch Lebe das Ostdeutsche Schneiderhandwerk, es hat am längsten überlebt. :give_rose:

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#34 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 08:40 AM

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#35 greger

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 09:33 AM

Looks nice.

How deep are the front pockets?

#36 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 10:12 AM

Looks nice.

How deep are the front pockets?


3 - 4cm under front point, you cannot see it in this picture. I just took a few progress pictures.
Still this is only a practice trouser, the next one then comes out perfect.
There need to be a few improvements to produce more rational and cleaner. Beside I produce all forms with card board/paper to make work more smooth later.

Es ist noch kein Meister vom Himmel gefallen, auch ich muss üben.

The fitting looks very good I had to baste it together to check the direction of the straps over the butt, but worked out like calculated then.

Tailoring is one of the most difficult trades, beside cutting which is another difficulty.
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