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Trousers cutting for varied feet angles


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#1 Nishijin

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 01:52 AM

I remember very well that I read a few months ago an interesting article or book chapter about cutting trousers for varying feet angles. The problem to solve is to keep the fold line in the direction of the foot when the customer has non-normal feet angle : for example, when he keeps his feet parallel, or on the contrary when he keeps them wide appart (duck-like).

Now I need exactly to do that today, and I can't find the text anymore.

Does anyone see what I'm talking about, and could provide me the link ?

Thank you.
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#2 Nishijin

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 01:58 AM

If this can help remember the article, they had a picture of a circle drawn on the floor to measure the actual angle between the feet, and commented saying this is how to measure, but don't do it because if you goof after taking this kind of detail, you look like a fool to the customer :Big Grin:

I did not measure the precise angle, I just know my customer is more open-angled than usual, and I want to adjust the cut while I correct other (easier) things.
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#3 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 02:22 AM

I know what you are talking about, but damned if I remember where that is.
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#4 posaune

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 03:02 AM

I try to explain but my english lets me down on this.
You have to rotate the lower part of the pattern. you draft a new center of the front leg hem with (example) 1.5 cm to the outer side. Now you rotate the pattern. Rotating point is were crotch and inseam meet and at gesaesslevel at out seam. Draft a new centerline from hem up to waist. The back pattern gets a new center at the leg hem 1.5 cm to the in side and is rotated to the inside same distance same rotating points as front pattern(Opposite as you do in front pattern) draft a new cneter line from hem to waist.
Lg
posaune

#5 Nishijin

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 03:16 AM

Thank you Posaune, it's perfectly clear. No need to the full length article now, you made a very good summary :thumbsup:
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#6 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 04:19 AM

I try to explain but my english lets me down on this.
You have to rotate the lower part of the pattern. you draft a new center of the front leg hem with (example) 1.5 cm to the outer side. Now you rotate the pattern. Rotating point is were crotch and inseam meet and at gesaesslevel at out seam. Draft a new centerline from hem up to waist. The back pattern gets a new center at the leg hem 1.5 cm to the in side and is rotated to the inside same distance same rotating points as front pattern(Opposite as you do in front pattern) draft a new cneter line from hem to waist.
Lg
posaune


Am I getting this right! You are giving the topside a slightly open leg and the underside a slightly closed leg?

#7 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 05:14 AM

That would make a bow legged figure
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#8 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 05:40 AM

That would make a bow legged figure


Surely you would alter the knee and hem position for bow legs.

#9 Schneidergott

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 05:49 AM

If I remember correctly, the pivoting point for altering the pattern is at knee level and is applied to both pieces, back and front evenly.
For X-shaped legs you open on the inside to add length and you take away on the outside, the reverse thing for bow legs.
But that's not what Nishijin was asking about, right?

Luckily, thiese problems were covered in my 1938 Müller & Sohn cutting manual. Just have to do some scanning. Hang on a sec!

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#10 Schneidergott

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 06:10 AM

Posted Image

Feet showing inwards.

Posted Image

Feet showing outwards.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Feet closed.

Posted Image

Spread feet.

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#11 Torry Kratch

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 06:30 AM

Recommendation from the textbook Grinshpan 1982.

Posted Image

Posted Image

The distance between the toes of the feet of the normal figure is 18 ... 20 cm difference in excess of this distance is multiplied by 0.2 and by this amount to shift the line of the fold.

How it works I have not tried it, and if the stripes or a cage, I do not know whether it is possible to apply this technique.

#12 posaune

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 06:36 PM

I'm glad my description for alteration for outward feet made sense to you Nishjin.

Maclochlainn: No, it just twist the crease. For a bow legged pans leg you shove the center of the leg in the same direction on front and back pattern. You cut the trouser at knee level to rotate the knee to hem part up or down depending on X or O legs. Rotating point is the center knee.
you have filled a hole in my bibliothek, Schneidergott. Thank you for sending the spread and closed feet article.
And that formula is good to know, Torry. I just calculated Phi multiplied with Thumb (This is a direct translation)
lg
posaune

Edited by posaune, 07 January 2011 - 06:38 PM.


#13 Nishijin

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Posted 08 January 2011 - 02:33 AM

Thank you SG, it's not the text I was looking for, but it is exactly the problem I had to solve. It is what Posaune explained.
That's what I did, unfortunately customer did not come today, so I'll have to wait next week if I made the right thing.

And yes, of course, it is very different from correcting for bow-legs and x-legs. Actually, it is a way to make the leg "twist", so that it follows the twist of the customer's leg.
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Mark Twain

#14 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 08 January 2011 - 04:44 AM

Posted Image

Feet showing inwards.

Posted Image

Feet showing outwards.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Feet closed.

Posted Image

Spread feet.



Spot on with that one SG, no translation needed even. I think Nishijin will be pleased with those diagrams.

#15 Nishijin

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Posted 08 January 2011 - 08:43 AM

Actually, Posaune explanation was enough, but yes, those diagram are very good. Now I have to print them before I forget where I saw them :Big Grin:
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
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