Jump to content


Photo

Lilli Ann


  • Please log in to reply
40 replies to this topic

#1 inceptor

inceptor

    Umsie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 29 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:france
  • Interests:Coats in general
    Ladie's coat's in particular

Posted 07 February 2011 - 10:24 AM

Here some image of Lilli Ann' clothes.
I find these cuts particularly interesting.
According to you such a result is only obtained by a particular work of the canvas ?
Does somebody have an idea or experience to be shared?

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image
anfänger ; beginner ; principiante ; débutant


http://philippecairo.wordpress.com

#2 Nishijin

Nishijin

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,704 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Paris, France.
  • Interests:Mainly tailoring it seems, but my friends know better...

Posted 07 February 2011 - 11:07 AM

Canvasing helps, but without proper fundation garments, you can't achieve such lines. You need serious boning to get such a waist.

Looking at the sleeves and skirts, you can see the cloth itself is choosen with great care.

Those are very interesting cuts, indeed, and well-made garments. Thanks for sharing these pictures.
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Mark Twain

#3 Sator

Sator

    Administrator

  • Root Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,998 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sydney, Australia

Posted 07 February 2011 - 06:19 PM

Wow. Some of those are spectacular.

Apparently the undergarments worn by women of this period were a lot more structured. It's not necessarily boning in the coat itself.

I also remember seeing an interview on TV recently with a young lady who collected 1950s vintage dresses. She said that women back then had "ridiculously narrow waists".

#4 Nishijin

Nishijin

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,704 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Paris, France.
  • Interests:Mainly tailoring it seems, but my friends know better...

Posted 07 February 2011 - 06:36 PM

I meant boning in the fundation garments, not in the coat, of course.
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Mark Twain

#5 Guyé

Guyé

    Umsie

  • Professional
  • Pip
  • 34 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Barcelona, Spain
  • Interests:Everything regarding tailoring.

Posted 07 February 2011 - 10:00 PM

I agree, you need a trong corset underneath to achieve such a waist. Corsets were back during the 50s, to allow women to fit in the hourglass shape of the styles of the era.

Regarding the first picture, I think you also need canvassing in the whole front and back, to keep also the shape of the floating hips. I've tried before to make a coat with a similar style, with narrow waist and floating hips, and it was impossible to keep the hips shape without canvassing them, even using a nice weighted fabric.

#6 eboli

eboli

    Umsie

  • Professional
  • Pip
  • 62 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Wien, Austria
  • Interests:bespoke tailoring

Posted 08 February 2011 - 06:24 AM

New Look items had a very special foundation: boned bodice plus padded underskirt. in other words: women after the WW2 were all tits and ass again. No wonder Chanel HATED that.

Edited by eboli, 08 February 2011 - 06:24 AM.

www.barbaraboll.com

#7 Jake K

Jake K

    Apprentice

  • Super Pro
  • PipPip
  • 301 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Los Angeles
  • Interests:Unfortunately, 10,000 hours is on the low side for tailoring.

Posted 08 February 2011 - 09:39 PM

The images in this thread are some of the most inspiring I have seen in years.

I can't wait to sink in to women's once my men's has established firm footing. I dream of shapes like these. These are garments from an era when style was real communication. The glamour provides the enticement to spend the time to really examine them. And when you really examine garments of these depth, they tell you many, many things about we as people.

Edited by Jake K, 08 February 2011 - 09:42 PM.

Jacob Kozinn
Custom Tailor in Los Angeles
http://jacobkozinn.com

#8 inceptor

inceptor

    Umsie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 29 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:france
  • Interests:Coats in general
    Ladie's coat's in particular

Posted 09 February 2011 - 08:58 AM

I am happy to know that this type of clothing have interest of certain readers.
In a first time i thought that those shapes was obtained by many darts. But we can see that there is generally on the front one dart or (and) one cut. I wonder finally if those shapes can't be obtained by a "rigid" canvas like we use in the collar with the iron work, in this case the difficult is to obtain the same round form on the left and the rightI saw in this post this form of canvas which maybe obtain the same resultl : Canvas Construction for Women's Coats (with armhole and sleeve pad)
http://i201.photobuc...Ladies011-2.jpg
http://i201.photobuc...hneidekunst.jpg

Here there are two other illustrations (one is a famous garment of Christian Dior.), and we can see the side of the clothing to the armhole at the waist and the hip (unless there is an error of my part I think that there is with armhole the "d" piece of the illustration in the Dior's garment)

Posted Image

Posted Image
anfänger ; beginner ; principiante ; débutant


http://philippecairo.wordpress.com

#9 Der Zuschneider

Der Zuschneider

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,429 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:TX, Houston
  • Interests:- German Cutting Systems
    - Modern Tailoring by German Semi-Traditional Standards

Posted 20 February 2011 - 12:18 PM

There are plenty of darts hidden in the seams. Amazing what tailoring was able to do at that time.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#10 inceptor

inceptor

    Umsie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 29 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:france
  • Interests:Coats in general
    Ladie's coat's in particular

Posted 27 February 2011 - 05:42 AM

Today I went in a little exposition of Christian Dior's garment. In this exposition there is the little jacket with the shape around the hips (second image on the top), with contortions i could look at underneath for have a good look. Between the waist and the hem of the garment i have saw a thickness of cotton (i guess it's cotton like padding) which give this shape around the hips.
To sum up I think that you have on the front : the Fabric, under, the canvas, and the lining and this thickness (which is lining).

If you have the possibility to be in Paris between 26 febuary and the 26 march you can see this exposition at the store "Le Bon Marché rive gauche" in Paris you can see this (too small but you have 6 garment between 1947 and 1997).
anfänger ; beginner ; principiante ; débutant


http://philippecairo.wordpress.com

#11 inceptor

inceptor

    Umsie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 29 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:france
  • Interests:Coats in general
    Ladie's coat's in particular

Posted 27 February 2011 - 05:45 AM

I forgotten : these exposition is free
anfänger ; beginner ; principiante ; débutant


http://philippecairo.wordpress.com

#12 dwc

dwc

    Umsie

  • Professional
  • Pip
  • 9 posts
  • Gender:Female

Posted 09 March 2011 - 04:32 AM

Undergarments were so important and waists were 'taped to achieve that nipped in look ' Women today would not be happy with the tight armhole and close sleeve fitting of the 1950's. As a fashion student of the 1970's I have seen a great change in fitting even from then to the looser fitting of today. I have made my living designing and making clothes for women, but still love the close fitting look. I enjoy drafting patterns influenced by the Tailor and Cutter books I have but this is 2011 and I have to remember that.
  • tailleuse likes this

#13 ACECAPS

ACECAPS

    Apprentice

  • Super Pro
  • PipPip
  • 160 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:düsseldorf-west germany
  • Interests:patterns,cutting books-new&old,nice+big cutting shears
    tailortalk+c.

Posted 17 March 2011 - 11:56 PM

very tasteful fashion!!!
i especially like the sleeves !!

#14 Claire Shaeffer

Claire Shaeffer

    Apprentice

  • Professional
  • PipPip
  • 189 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Palm Springs, CA USA
  • Interests:haute couture

Posted 29 July 2011 - 03:23 AM

When you look at garments from the 50s and 60s, remember that panty hose were not readily available until the early 70s. In the 60s, many garments were worn with tights. So, if you didn't have panty hose, you wore girdles or garter belts to hold your stockings up. On some formal gowns, garters were sewn to the corselette.

If you wore a girdle regularly, your waist didn't expand. I just found a skirt I wore in college. This was an everyday skirt--no stockings or girdle or waist cincher, it has a 22" waist. Needless to say, I can no longer wear it.

Back to the Lilli Ann designs, the designer would have attended the couture show and paid a caution which entitled the manufacturer to two garments--which they copied. Any designs they could simply "remember" they could knock off. Most of these suits probably have a sturdy hair canvas inner structure and the client probably wore a corset which extended to the bust and perhaps over the bust as well.

Although Chanel gets credit for more comfortable clothes, Balenciaga did tunics and shifts earlier.

Edited by Claire Shaeffer, 29 July 2011 - 04:48 AM.

  • Maggie Bob and tailleuse like this

Claire Shaeffer

Author, Couture Sewing Techniques

claire.shaeffer@gmail.com

www.sewfari.org


#15 tailleuse

tailleuse

    Master

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,059 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling
  • Interests:Tailoring and couture.

Posted 05 August 2011 - 06:30 AM

Undergarments were so important and waists were 'taped to achieve that nipped in look ' Women today would not be happy with the tight armhole and close sleeve fitting of the 1950's. As a fashion student of the 1970's I have seen a great change in fitting even from then to the looser fitting of today. I have made my living designing and making clothes for women, but still love the close fitting look. I enjoy drafting patterns influenced by the Tailor and Cutter books I have but this is 2011 and I have to remember that.



You sound like a wise professional. Some of the suits look chic, but they all look incredibly uncomfortable to wear for long periods. I find them impossible to emulate.


Dignity. Always, dignity. (Singin' in the Rain)


#16 Design for Living

Design for Living

    Umsie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:40 AM

You sound like a wise professional. Some of the suits look chic, but they all look incredibly uncomfortable to wear for long periods. I find them impossible to emulate.


Dear friends. I'm sitting here with two lady friends who all have a passion for vintage clothing and needless to say; tailoring. For us, and me, it seems very strange to say that any bespoke suit would be uncomfortable to wear weather the armhole is cut high or low, as long as it's not too high, and let's not forget to mention; too low.
Personally I would chose a tight fitting jacket (but not too tight) any day ahead of the strange, baggy, loose cuts of modern jackets one normally finds today.
Naturally a tightly fitting coat would put more strain on personal adjustments than a rather baggy and loose coat bought off the rack for comfort but if that's not a challenge that we tailors can meet, then what's the point in even discussing the matter at hand?
I have several tailored forties and fifties suits and I would gladly wear them all days long rather than anything I've ever tried on from a modern shop. And let's not forget; sometimes comfort and mobility is not always an absolute value, but something that is in clear relation to what we've learned to get used to and to what we expect.
  • Maggie Bob likes this

#17 J. Maclochlainn

J. Maclochlainn

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,127 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 03 January 2012 - 11:46 AM

I just realized that a lot of the photos from the original post are from my girlfriends archive site. For more Lilli Ann look at her site My Vintage Vogue
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#18 Padme

Padme

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 163 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:United States

Posted 03 January 2012 - 11:26 PM

Wow!

Your girlfriend has a wonderful site.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users