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Modern fashion is strange.


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#37 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 05:43 PM

Like Alexander McQueen!

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Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#38 Sator

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 10:57 PM

This is the result of good idea,s mixed with bad execution - a train wreck. The same design,s with a bit of thought in the cutting and make up process and they would be great.
It sticks out a mile which designers have learnt the trade properly and which ones draw pretty pictures.


We have a growing number of fashion designer on this forum. And they should take heed of your advice. There's no use in building a tower of Babel that won't stand up, no matter how cool it may seem on paper. You have to understand the technical ins-and-outs of cutting. Execution is everything.

#39 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 11:00 PM

We have a growing number of fashion designer on this forum. And they should take heed of your advice. There's no use in building a tower of Babel that won't stand up, no matter how cool it may seem on paper. You have to understand the technical ins-and-outs of cutting. Execution is everything.


so no making spats with rubber cement and a mallet?
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#40 Nishijin

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 11:11 PM

A fashion designer is not presumed to be a tailor. It is not their job to make well-made garments. But they should hire people who do know, and listen to them. I don't know any star-designers, but I wonder if to have the success they have, they can afford to have a personnality humble enough to listen to advice.
Plus this is RTW, anyway, not bespoke. I have no idea how are made the garments worn for the show, as they have to fit them to those ridiculously small sizes...

I don't really care if those garments are not well made. That is not important. What matters is that the show gives ideas, maybe it will launch a new trend. Very very very few people haveing the know-how to make good coats also have the ideas to make a good collection and set a trend. The mind work in very different ways.
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Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
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#41 jukes

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 01:17 AM

They don,t have to be bespoke, a better cut on those garments would reflect them in a much better light, and a designer should know about cut and make up, its part of their job, otherwise they might just as well be an artist drawing clothes.

#42 Schneidergott

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 03:28 AM

They don,t have to be bespoke, a better cut on those garments would reflect them in a much better light, and a designer should know about cut and make up, its part of their job, otherwise they might just as well be an artist drawing clothes.



I doubt that many people in the audience actually know about defects in cut and construction. Or care about it. I'm sure they consider things like: What can we use from this to make our own stuff sell?

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#43 Jake K

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 04:47 PM

Like Alexander McQueen!

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I really miss him. The loss of him was a huge blow to the industry.
Jacob Kozinn
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http://jacobkozinn.com

#44 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 04:48 PM

Amen
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#45 I.Brackley

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 11:09 AM

Ick..... please say this is a knock-off. I think my enthusiam for (admittedly unwearable) "buisiness frock" has cooled considerably.

http://www.raffaello...er-2010-11.html
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#46 jcsprowls

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 11:18 AM

Alexander McQueen

~le sigh~ quelle tragedie!

A fashion designer is not presumed to be a tailor. It is not their job to make well-made garments.

It depends which sector you're talking about. Contemporary menswear... typically it's thrown over the wall to patternmakers.

Edited by jcsprowls, 13 February 2011 - 11:22 AM.

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#47 Jake K

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 04:32 PM

It depends which sector you're talking about. Contemporary menswear... typically it's thrown over the wall to patternmakers.


...to someone like JC, who is then typically thoroughly tortured by ignorant demands without fair compensation. (Remember this is me saying this, not JC.) Seriously, a patternmaker of JC's caliber is critical to the success of any young, talented designer who cannot draft... yet most of their businesses seem unwilling or unable to compensate someone like him in the manner called for.

Result: good ideas, executed like "drek" (Yiddish for crap), on the runway, and in the stores.

A hint to young designers reading the forum: find a patternmaker like JC to make your ideas a reality. THEN PAY THEM PROPERLY.
Jacob Kozinn
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http://jacobkozinn.com

#48 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 01:09 AM

They don,t have to be bespoke, a better cut on those garments would reflect them in a much better light, and a designer should know about cut and make up, its part of their job, otherwise they might just as well be an artist drawing clothes.



Isn't that about what 99% of them already are?

#49 Nishijin

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 02:58 AM

Ick..... please say this is a knock-off. I think my enthusiam for (admittedly unwearable) "buisiness frock" has cooled considerably.

http://www.raffaello...er-2010-11.html



Sadly, it is much much much better than those "tuxedo trousers" :Black Eye:
http://www.raffaello...er-2010-11.html


Edit : Hell, I've just seen the price... Man, I really have to increase my prices, those train wreck are more expensive than what I charge for bespoke, hand-made ones... What a mistake I made by choosing Ambrosi as a point of reference...
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Mark Twain

#50 jcsprowls

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 04:53 AM

I guess I need to understand how you set your pricing, Nishjin. The coat sample you're referring to is properly priced for what it is.
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#51 Schneidergott

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 05:26 AM

Sadly, it is much much much better than those "tuxedo trousers" :Black Eye:
http://www.raffaello...er-2010-11.html


Edit : Hell, I've just seen the price... Man, I really have to increase my prices, those train wreck are more expensive than what I charge for bespoke, hand-made ones... What a mistake I made by choosing Ambrosi as a point of reference...



There are a few T-shirts for sale for about the same price (+/- $400.00) :shock:

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#52 Nishijin

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 07:15 PM

I guess I need to understand how you set your pricing, Nishjin. The coat sample you're referring to is properly priced for what it is.


Sorry, I've lost you. What coat sample ?

I set my pricing by estimating the time I need and multiplying by a time rate. I check the price is then OK to my market and relatively to my competitors.
I was not saying that I charge too low (though some competitors say me so), but rather that 900$ for these joke of trousers is an insane price.
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Mark Twain

#53 jcsprowls

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 01:32 AM

The coat that IB is talking about (viz. the sample in question - you'll need to scroll up for the link), is properly priced at $1400. *You* may not value it that much. But, all its time & materials plus fair margins, it's price is spot-on.

Like I said, elsewhere, it's a viable market to attract RTW consumers away from conventional brands.
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#54 Nishijin

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 02:15 AM

The coat may be fair price. I was talking about the "trousers". Not that 900$ could not be a fair price for trousers, but at that price, I would expect a better cut and better making (take a look at the fly).
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Mark Twain




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