Jump to content


Photo

Ivy League bespoke.


  • Please log in to reply
39 replies to this topic

#37 carpu65

carpu65

    Pro

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 537 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 31 March 2014 - 05:06 AM

UPDATE:

RICHARD PRESS: "Double-breasted suits and blazers at J. Press were tailored in the natural-shoulder style of our three-button model that departed from the single breasted version only via deep side vents.
Double breasted suits and blazer of the era were undarted, and the Double Breasted body tracing followed the equivalent straight waist proportion of the Single Breasted model".

http://www.ivy-style...1#comment-64780

 



#38 Naive Jr

Naive Jr

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 329 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling

Posted 04 April 2014 - 05:20 PM

Here is something that gives us a bit of insight into the Ivy League look:gallery_1_21_167745.jpgIt comes from Bert Bacharach's book Right Dress - Success Through Better Grooming, New York, 1955. Japanese admirers of the look often cite Bobby Kennedy as the epitome of the style:BobbyKennedy_Ivy.jpgNotice how closely fitted the suit is. Japanese commentators also point out how the trousers are extremely shortly hemmed to the point the sock show when walking. If you look at Republicans at the time, it is extremely noticeable that the clothes they wear are much drapier - in the sense of being more loosely fitted, like this British cartoon of a stereotypical rich American oil tycoon:EnglishVsAmerican.jpgYou won't see Nixon wearing Ivy League styled suits. I suspect that the Ivy League thing has something to do with the liberal thinking typical of many East Coast Ivy League university graduates. I wonder if their almost exaggerated close cuts are a reaction against the mainstream American culture of wearing their clothes on the easy side. Bill Blass in 1974 stated, for example, that most Americans wear their clothes "two sizes too big". Even today, RTW cutters say that they have to cut clothes for the American market on the easy side, otherwise they don't sell. One book to grab while in print is the following book (by a Japanese author):http://www.amazon.co...97254703&sr=8-2


There are many interesting details in Sator's post which require experience and knowledge I don't have. But I find missing are the names of Robert Kennedy's tailor and Richard Nixon's. To say Nixon did not wear Ivy League corresponds his attendance at that non Ivy League college Whittier in Whittier, California. So in this sense, Capricorn Nixon was authentic. Nixon became a very wealthy lawyer who later lived in NYC, so he could afford any clothes he wanted. (The TV debate suit colour contrast is always mentioned.) Someone with more knowledge could try to construct an East Coast versus West Coast characteristic. Scorpion Robert Kennedy might very well represent something specifically Massachusetts, although one can easily object Brook Brothers in NYC would transcend any such specification.

Edited by Naive Jr, 06 April 2014 - 04:28 AM.

Scribimus indocti doctique poemata passim

#39 carpu65

carpu65

    Pro

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 537 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 09 April 2014 - 05:42 AM

I think that Robert Kennedy wears Chipp,both bespoke and RTW.

Richard Nixon was a very eleggant President, in my opinion.



#40 Naive Jr

Naive Jr

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 329 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling

Posted 17 April 2014 - 11:32 AM

Thanks very much for your comments to Robert Kennedy and Richard Nixon. I never heard of Chipp - I'll look for it in Internet. Your judgment about Nixon's elegance might have to account for his color blunder in suit for the TV debate. Perhaps Nixon changed tailors, or changed his relationship to clothes in the course of his career.
Of course, such questions are quite specialized.

Edited by Naive Jr, 17 April 2014 - 11:34 AM.

Scribimus indocti doctique poemata passim




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users