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#19 Lewis Davies

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 08:31 PM

mr taub, is a very very skilled cutter who i would say is one of the most forward thinking cutters on the row
i spoke to him this week he said he was very jealous of the coat and when i saw it i was very very impressed - there are two darts at the front and his gauntlet sleeves - i will post up some of his work from the window for people to see just how skilled he is.

#20 Jake K

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 04:44 AM

There are some sharp-eyed eagles in this forum! Mr. Taub, who cut the coat at Sedwell, really added the substance to my vague idea of the great coat. I see him not only as a skillful cutter but also a designer ('orrible word, I know). I mean, great coats are quite in vogue this winter in the UK (e.g. Burburry, Gieves & Hawkes, etc) so in some ways, there was the aesthetic challenge of moving beyond the 'RTW' look without being outlandish for the sake of it.

Sator:
- The double dart is indeed a subtle feature of the forepart which I seem to remember being told that Scottish Highland regiment coats have these darts and that the double darts were not necessarily more shaping than a single one (I mistakenly thought it was). The task seemed to be more about keeping the darts neatly parallel with each other.

- The curved yoke was designed to create a fluid line from the where the yoke's bottom seam line up and roll into the sleeves' under-seam. Unfortunately, I'm off on travelling tomorrow but will get a photo of this (plus others) soonish.

- You are certainly right about the collar. Mr. Taub wanted the collar to be clean looking without dragging whether it laid down or stood up. I do recall standing still for quite some time in the fitting room while he cross-checked again and again so that the collar worked both up and down when the coat was sequentially fastened from the second button upwards.

- The cuffs on the sleeves worked out better that I hoped because I originally thought of horizontal turn-back ones. There is a single button fastening beneath the cuff and gives the cuff-end a slightly flared look. Had we found some very burnished brass buttons for the coat then the cuff button would have been showing. As it stands now, I am very pleased with the horn buttons.

- More than anything else about the coat, my eye is forever drawn to the shoulder line when I glance at my reflection. For me, the slight concave shape and roping gives the shoulders a distinguished line.

- I'll post photos of the coat's back. There is a centre box(?) pleat running from the yoke and ending above the half-belt which is placed at the hollow of my back. Below the half-belt is the one-piece centre box pleat.

- Is your great coat a button 5 or button 6? At one point, we were going for a button 6 but eventually decided to drop the last button from the bottom.

Torry Kratch:
- Yes, the final photo does seem to show the left side waving (or do you think it is both?). It not something that I notice when I wear the coat but will reserve judgment until it gets a few more outings. Who knows - if there is a problem then I will ask Sedwell to address it.

One final, almost trivial point being that Sedwell provides hangers worthy of bespoke garments. They are heavy wooden jobbies made by Toscanini with a curved back and the shoulder flares are the equivalent of 70s-style bell-bottoms.

- OR


Mr. Taub cut you one fantastic coat. I'm happy to see Sedwell is still a great house.
Jacob Kozinn
Custom Tailor in Los Angeles
http://jacobkozinn.com

#21 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 02:43 PM

What a nice coat. And it is progressive well thought through with a site panel. Engineering, excellent.
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#22 rs232

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 10:38 AM

I'd just like to point out Davide's blog: http://davidetaub.blogspot.com/

You may see pictures of the coat back there. While you're there (as if you wouldn't look!), there are some very nice (and forward-thinking) coats on display. It seems he's only been blogging for the last couple of months - I hope he continues!

Edited by rs232, 07 March 2011 - 10:43 AM.


#23 Sator

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 11:01 AM

I'd just like to point out Davide's blog: http://davidetaub.blogspot.com/


Good find!

You actually get a look at the greatcoat in this thread from the back:

Posted Image

You can see that it is actually a fancy (one piece, not split) yolk that ends where the seam on the sleeve starts. This is actually quite fiddly because if you change the sleeve pitch you have to readjust the seam positions.

I suspect that the yolk obviates the need to put in a sprats head to tack the top of an inverted box pleat starting at the bottom of the yolk.

#24 jeffrey2117

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 09:27 AM

BTW here's my one that I cut with minor modifications off a pattern straight from Anthony Sinclair's workshop:

Posted Image



Hello Sator,

I love the military style greatcoats. I see this one does not have the military style cuffs.
This is seen in the original first post. Instead do I see buttonholes?

How was the back of the coat made up?

Thank you for posting.

Regards

Jeffrey 2117
"An intelligent man knows he is ignorant, a ignorant man knows he is intelligent".

#25 craigdman

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Posted 29 September 2014 - 02:35 PM

It's funny how the thread is a couple of years old now but a coat like that is still very much wearable. Very nice coat by the way.






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