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Critique my Shirt


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#55 uchimata

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 08:03 AM

It appears to me that your shirt is neither a fitted shirt nor a loose shirt. Or maybe it is more correct to say that it is trying to be BOTH a fitted shirt AND a loose shirt.

Assuming that you are looking for a fitted shirt I would say that the hips need to be bigger and the shoulders need to be narrower(which of course would make the overall arm length shorter). The sleeve also needs to be narrower with more of a head to it as the head is presently for a looser fitting shirt. The armhole depth I believe is O.K. You will not get rid of all the pulls on the sleeve as a shirt is not supposed to be fitted like a jacket. I would say that the front neck is a little too narrow in relation to the back neck, causing the pull at the front. Also there is some excess fabric at the back neck causing a pull towards the shoulder, which would suggest to me that either you have to take out this fullness from the back neck or you need to add into the shoulder.

I would also suggest having a look at some ready made shirts that have the fit you are looking for. This would tell you the width of shoulder you need as well as the armhole depth and sleeve head height. Or maybe that is just cheating ?

#56 ladhrann

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:32 AM

Another way to find a tailor is to ask cloth merchants if there are any near where you live. Even old retired one might still be making shirts or other clothes for extra money or fight boredom, so wouldn't be listed in the phone book.



Greger,

Thanks for the advice. I'm continually on the hunt for trimmings suppliers, cloth merchants, tailors and shirtmakers. The trouble with the industry in Ireland is that its all quite disconnected or not advertised well. There's also the problem that not only do some people want it to die some are actively trying to kill it. Case in point, when I asked a cloth merchant here how much for X cloth his answer was "what do you want that for"? He's actually the last proper cloth merchant in Ireland but because of his attitude I have to deal with the mills directly or jobbers in the UK.

One thing I'm going to try is to have a shirt made by a Polish tailor here, he says he can and he made a fine pair of trousers for me previously so we'll see how that goes. Its a bit of an adventure as he speaks no English and I speak no Polish!




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