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Modern tailoring


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#73 carpu65

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 12:58 AM

The original thing had covered buttons,but for lack of cloth in war time addedd syntetic external buttons.
Could be realised in melton,cavalry,serge,cotton.
In late 1942 war ministry decided that was the new uniform for all the Army,and did many thousand never distributed.
When,after the armistice,Italy broke in two, in North, fascists found stores full of this uniform,so gave to fascist repubblican Army.
The result was that this beautifull and innovative tunic is identified with the late,bloody fascism of "Social Repubblic"
and damned forever.
Royal south Army passed to kakhi for avoid "friendly fair" of Allied,and keep kakhi also after the war.

Winter version:

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North Africa and summer version (in sand color):

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The back:
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The trousers (derived from a ski model):

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Fashion sketch:

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Edited by carpu65, 17 April 2011 - 01:02 AM.


#74 Sator

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 11:07 AM

The back:
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I love the design of the pleats and yoke.

#75 I.Brackley

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 11:27 AM

Gotta admit that the yoke/pocket flaps thing is innovative.

Taking from military cues, I've always thought the rear skirt pockets of the old Sweedish M39 field jacket would be the sort of thing appreciated on a bicycle coat.

Note as well the underarm gussets(?) of duck cotton. One supposes for mobility.

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Edited by I.Brackley, 18 April 2011 - 11:29 AM.

"The possibilities that exist in the portrayal of personality constitute the strongest, and in fact the only unanswerable argument for the supremacy of Custom Tailoring"

-F.T. Croonborg, c. 1917

#76 Sator

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 08:49 PM

More sporty and casual styles:

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From DSHW June 66 and December 67.

#77 Sator

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 09:25 PM

From DSHW June 1968:

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Note parallels with this fashion plate from 1924:

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#78 I.Brackley

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 01:17 AM

This last evening wear piece ("Summer festive wear") is reminiscent of this signature piece Ozwald Boateng has appeared wearing in various cloths.

Arguably the 1968 is more daring in its use of the curved front panels.

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Edited by I.Brackley, 19 April 2011 - 10:33 PM.

"The possibilities that exist in the portrayal of personality constitute the strongest, and in fact the only unanswerable argument for the supremacy of Custom Tailoring"

-F.T. Croonborg, c. 1917

#79 carpu65

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 02:08 AM

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This is fantastic!!!

#80 Sator

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 02:35 AM

This is fantastic!!!


I can see it being made up in cavalry twill. Navy or fawn.

This comes from J&J Minnis (pattern No. 2019, 23½oz–24oz / 670g–680g):

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http://www.hfwltd.co...p?b=jjm&c=4&p=2

They also make this design in dark navy.

I will look to see if DSHW published a pattern for this.

#81 carpu65

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 11:49 AM

What do you think about this 1965 coat ?

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P.S.
Sator..
About "suit with a soul","wasabi suit",etc.. well,you have right.
And DeBoise work is undoubtedly higher for Technical and silhouette.
Here i have learned many things.
Now I appreciate more the work of my tailor,and enjoy more of my suits.
The risk that i go to throw money in "cognoscenti's idols" is less serious now.
Thanks. :hi:

Edited by carpu65, 19 April 2011 - 01:24 PM.


#82 Sator

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 11:40 PM

^ I quite like the cut. The execution could be cleaner, but the idea of a short, fitted Ulster is a nice one.




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