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Rundschau goes "British"!


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#37 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 02:16 AM

Many Rundschau drafts show pinching 1cm at the hem which is the so called donlon wedge in English tailoring. Even the British draft shows that here in the first page. The pocket dart opens 0.75cm. And you know what? It is complete Bullshit! For a proportional person 100/90/106 to pinch of 1cm at the hem is completely contra productive for the waisting and is even worst when you go British! This pinching nonsense was good for the old German Potato sacks which German tailors produced from 1945 - 1965. Until today German tailoring did not understand there is nothing to pinch at the hem, maybe a tiny bit so the pocket dart opens 0.25cm that should be enough. I fell into these snares or lies a couple of times now cause I didn't want to believe it. To many times wrong things are repeated right until everybody believes in Rundschau it is right which is wrong. When I look in the Rundschaus today and see the pattern and next to it the real model I can't see any pinching made by the tailors, you need to have an eye for that. When I see a picture now I can even tell you how much someone has pinched the hem, yes you can see it and you are able to discover the lie. You can check Losberg as well. If you tailor a coat other than for an old sack but a modern waisted one forget about the German potato sack pinching nonsense.

Edited by Der Zuschneider, 10 May 2012 - 02:37 AM.

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#38 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 02:36 AM

Regarding Sakkogrundschnitt 1001 (4/99)

Moving the side body 2 to the right also comes from the potato sack era. When you do that to pull out length, shortening the side seam at the waist line which is absolute contra productive for the waisting in the back. For a proportional person 100/90/106 the gap should be 0 - 0.5cm not 2cm!
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#39 greger

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 04:37 PM

If I remember correctly the donlon wedge on a proportional person was for the close hip effect in the 1920s. Truely, so many things are for fashion details and some systems don't seperate out a good basic pattern system from the fashions of the day, which is confusing for those who are not watching. A good basic pattern system allows the tailor to add in the fashions of the day. But even basic pattern system get modernized over time whether they have fashion details interwined or not. With Vincents T&C he would give a basic pattern and then the proceeding pages would show how one could add or subtract for the fashions of the day. And with new books he kept showing newer systems and the latest fashions. When the system is interwined with a fashion and the cutter doesn't want the fashion then he has to figure out how to exclude the fashion.

#40 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 11 May 2012 - 01:06 AM

Dear Greger

Those are design mistakes and is kind of fashion related. The system has plenty of other design questions i.e. Rundmaße.
There are not many tailors in Germany who can find them. (unless the 20, probably)
Still the MMS system is the most successful system of the world and is used over 60% worldwide.

Edited by Der Zuschneider, 28 May 2012 - 01:07 AM.

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