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Action Backs

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#19 dpcoffin



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Posted 17 May 2015 - 06:03 AM

For any interested makers, here's some pix of patterns Stanley Hostek once sent me when I asked him about action backs:



He included another with a waist seam:




I put them to work on a shirt, offset from the end of the yoke with the seam run off the hem:




Full-size scans available if anyone would like 'em. dpcoffin@earthlink.net

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#20 dpcoffin



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Posted 17 May 2015 - 06:14 AM



Does anyone have recommendations for a nice cloth, for hot, humid climates that would wear well for this project?




The coolest woolens I've ever worn were woven in a sort of basic end-on-end manner with a hard-spun cotton. The wool was also very tightly spun. The weave, OTOH, was nice and loose, very transparent if closely inspected but not at all when worn. The structure (no longer around, sadly) was revealed very clearly after a moth had lunch on the wool, leaving the cotton weave behind...or might it have been linen? Didn't wrinkle much at all, and always hung out nicely. The cotton was black, while the wool, and the overall effect, was taupe-y green drab. I've always wondered if there was a name for the cloth, which I got, of course, from a mill-end seller, with no info.


Maybe you can track something similar down? Please share if so! :)


Edited by dpcoffin, 17 May 2015 - 06:18 AM.

#21 jeffrey2117



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Posted 17 May 2015 - 07:54 AM

Hello David,


    Thank you for posting such interesting pictures. 


The action pleats that I did last year on the Bush/Safari jacket was nearly identical to those of Mr. Hostek's with the waist seam.  The pattern I used for that project, was from Parson's Bush jacket. I modified it slightly to give a more modern functionality, while retaining the vintage feel to it. 


Kind regards



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#22 greger



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Posted 23 May 2015 - 08:37 AM

One picture shows the back shoulder.


Edited by greger, 23 May 2015 - 08:44 AM.

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