43 replies to this topic

[greger]

Poulins book shows a method of adjusting the back (cb- up or down) and fork and along that cb seam for adjusting for stooped and erect. I believe doing that would change the angle from ninety degrees to more or less. I'll have to go look again. His method pulls the pant legs off of the calfs or shins.

As a boy of four or five seeing old men leaning on their canes certainly revealed they needed a longer back rise. The stitches back there were rather strained. At that young age eye level and and you can't help see some unpleasent .... Leaning on a cane makes a bigger curve of the seat. Curve = more length. That extra length has to be put some how. The dart is for the small of the back, so that doesn't completly work, But can be part of the solution. A horizontal dart that a yoke gives is one way for a dart. But it does not add length if that is needed.

[A TAILOR]

GREGER

I just was going through old posts.
remember about the cotton for jean buttonholes?
thought i had a good thing by using doubled button thread.
well that experiment was not good it was too thick and clunky.
now i just use a single cotton button thread.
its a 4 cord smooth hard finish. works ok.

[greger]

GREGER

I just was going through old posts.
remember about the cotton for jean buttonholes?
thought i had a good thing by using doubled button thread.
well that experiment was not good it was too thick and clunky.
now i just use a single cotton button thread.
its a 4 cord smooth hard finish. works ok.

Sounds good.

[A TAILOR]

GREGER

here is a recent jean. its a selvage denim 3o" 75cm wide. there is a finished
selvage on both edges. the front and back side seams are cut straight.
thats to use the selvage as a finish instead of serging. so i used an extra
half yard to trim the fly inside, and also at the waist band like a curtain.

sorry pictures to follow.

Edited by A TAILOR, 12 February 2013 - 09:27 AM.

[A TAILOR]

GREGER

here is a recent jean. its a selvage denim 3o" 75cm wide. there is a finished
selvage on both edges. the front and back side seams are cut straight.
thats to use the selvage as a finish instead of serging. so i used an extra
half yard to trim the fly inside, and also at the waist band like a curtain.

sorry pictures to follow.

[greger]

They look really nice. Your wife will need a big club to keep the young ladies away. Of course you could sneak out, but then some young guy will think they are raally nice and you'll be walking home in your undies as he walks away wearing some better jeans.

Did you preshrink the cloth before cutting or added a percentage to your pattern for shrinkage after being made when they go through the wash?

[A TAILOR]

They look really nice. Your wife will need a big club to keep the young ladies away. Of course you could sneak out, but then some young guy will think they are raally nice and you'll be walking home in your undies as he walks away wearing some better jeans.

Did you preshrink the cloth before cutting or added a percentage to your pattern for shrinkage after being made when they go through the wash?

yes greg i soak the cut of cloth in cold water. have the washer run through the wash cycle and spin dry.
then toss it in the dryer and tumble dry with high heat. then i iron it by hand. i also shrink the pocketing.

but lately i got permission from a local cleaner to use his pressing machines to press the denim.

i have twice had ladies compliment me on how my jeans fit. not bad for a guy 85 years old.

[greger]

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Edited by greger, 22 March 2013 - 09:30 AM.