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The modern Trouser


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#1 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 02:30 AM

For the very few not biased people I have produced a new slide show of a modern trouser. Enjoy the making and fit. I will produce another slide show for the fish tail trouser and will spread those things all over the internet. I might have to shift links around on my site… but you will find them.

Apprenticeships for a pretty big penny can be possible including modern drafting, sewing, ironing, buttonholes, using my traditional tools. Accommodation in my house, why I have such a big house... I think 10 days 24/7 should be enough, maybe more. After that you should be able to produce a trouser like you see in the pictures if your hands are golden enough. Drafts are calculated in the metric system only. My trousers are made out of the draft no alterations or inlays necessary for normal figures. Just laying seam on seam together, concentrating on building them together like an architect. You will see when I unlock the secrets how easy it is to make a pair of trousers on a high level. Tailors gone hate me when I do this. Cause I steal them a couple of years learning and investigating. My trousers are made on a modern level, so if your mind is biased on a lot of edge tape and hand stitched crotch and seat seams, I cannot help it. LOL

I will start a modern coat the next days taking lots of pictures for slide shows.

http://www.berlin-be...rntrousers.html

Edited by Der Zuschneider, 26 August 2011 - 03:12 AM.

Schneidern heisst, viel Wissen, viel Arbeit und keine Kohle im Sack, dafuer aber viele Kunden, die alles besser wissen.  :Big Grin:


#2 Terri

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 03:28 AM

Looks great and good luck with possible teaching.

Teaching must be in the air, as I too, am putting together a program of study, to be offered more widely and perhaps some of it through online teaching in the near future.
Some things are best taught one on one side by side with a willing student, but I am hoping that some basics can be taught long distance too.

Cheers!

#3 Torry Kratch

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 04:02 AM

Nice work. A little surprised mismatched stripes on the belt along the middle seam ... Sorry that I speak to you about it. In general, the process and the result is quite impressive. You feel the hand of the old school masters. Bravo!

#4 Nishijin

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 08:22 AM

Very nice trousers.

Do you always put a button on the waistband or do you also offer a possibility of 2 hooks ?
Do you reinforce the waistband in addition to the fusing ?


10 days may not be enough, except if the student already has good sewing knowledge.


Cutting without fittings (so, no inlays) is possible when the cutter has good understanding of the figure. Normal figure is not that frequent, at least not amongst customers who order bespoke (many of them go to the tailor because they need it, not just for the luxury of it). It takes a lot of experience to miss nothing on a customer. And sometimes, a cloth just doesn't fell like others, and you have to fit again the trousers even though you've made several pairs for this customer with the same pattern.
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Mark Twain

#5 Nishijin

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 08:25 AM

BTW, where did you find the buckles for the waist adjusters ? I'm desperately looking for good ones, and yours look wonderfull.
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Mark Twain

#6 dkst

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 11:23 AM

Beautiful work, thank you for sharing. My absolute favorite thing about this forum is seeing other members works, especially the masters, for inspiration. Look forward to seeing the coat slideshow. I see the cloth is Dugdale Bros, what bunch is this from?

#7 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 11:23 AM

Nice work. A little surprised mismatched stripes on the belt along the middle seam ... Sorry that I speak to you about it. In general, the process and the result is quite impressive. You feel the hand of the old school masters. Bravo!


Torry, we cannot be perfect all the way. I wish I could. LOL
But see: I am learning to get over little sewing mistakes as long as they can sell.

Schneidern heisst, viel Wissen, viel Arbeit und keine Kohle im Sack, dafuer aber viele Kunden, die alles besser wissen.  :Big Grin:


#8 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 11:40 AM

Very nice trousers.

Do you always put a button on the waistband or do you also offer a possibility of 2 hooks ?
Do you reinforce the waistband in addition to the fusing ?


10 days may not be enough, except if the student already has good sewing knowledge.


Cutting without fittings (so, no inlays) is possible when the cutter has good understanding of the figure. Normal figure is not that frequent, at least not amongst customers who order bespoke (many of them go to the tailor because they need it, not just for the luxury of it). It takes a lot of experience to miss nothing on a customer. And sometimes, a cloth just doesn't fell like others, and you have to fit again the trousers even though you've made several pairs for this customer with the same pattern.


I love the button in the front. If you use a hook in the front you need to put in a little extra canvas. I only have those old hooks to sew on. There is no good way to attach one in the tongue. Then you need the other kind of hook, which I don't like to much, they look too cheap. There is a picture how I attached the hook then you will understand.

I am so precise in cutting I can draft a trouser for all normal figures which will fit. But if someone has some shifted body parts, then I also have to do my best to make it fit. But here are tricks to draft right away flat butts and uneven hips and all kind of leg positions. It’s how exact you can measure the customer or see it, then there is a chance to hit the fit. If you use the Rundschau system then there is a high chance to get my results. I just topped the Rundschau system a little bit up to be on the secure site.

Could be that 10 days is too short, the apprentice need to have knowledge. The apprenticeship was only an idea, you never know… maybe I change my mind and keep all the secrets for me. LOL

Schneidern heisst, viel Wissen, viel Arbeit und keine Kohle im Sack, dafuer aber viele Kunden, die alles besser wissen.  :Big Grin:


#9 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 11:42 AM

I added the High Rise trouser as well to my site today, was a big work. So little by little I get ready. Now I need a better Sakko, more modern and nicer.

Schneidern heisst, viel Wissen, viel Arbeit und keine Kohle im Sack, dafuer aber viele Kunden, die alles besser wissen.  :Big Grin:


#10 Nishijin

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 03:34 PM

I love the button in the front.


Yeah, but well, bespoke is what customer likes, not just us.

There is a picture how I attached the hook then you will understand.


I do understand, I make enough trousers myself ;)

BTW, treasure your hooks, blakened ones are becoming very hard to find, white metal ones just don't look the same (even ones that are sewn).


I am so precise in cutting I can draft a trouser for all normal figures which will fit.


Normal figure is no problem. I hope every cutter can get it right from paper from first try. Even with other figures, I still manage to get a good pair of trousers right from drafting half of the time. But it's very easy to miss something while taking measures, so inlays should always be added. Better safe than too confident and then having to put good cloth to the bin.
I usually draft from a system designed by my master, but I've tried Rundschau, and it gives very good results indeed.
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Mark Twain

#11 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 03:40 AM

Taking measurements can be difficult. I am using the Lot Tape taking measurements off the ground.

If a customer wants a hook even on the back, I will put a hook there even if I don't understand why.
And if he wants silver hooks I am happy to get rid of them. LOL

Schneidern heisst, viel Wissen, viel Arbeit und keine Kohle im Sack, dafuer aber viele Kunden, die alles besser wissen.  :Big Grin:


#12 greger

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 06:21 AM

Nice trousers. Like the side adjusters. The slide show is really nice.




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