I know the system got improved in 1969 and I followed the Rundschau magazines until 1979. Maybe the Bekleidungsakademie has stopped printing those Menbooks.
I have “Jacken and Mäntel“ 18th, 1967 Edition in continuation of the Herrenbuch 17th, 1966 edition. I found out those books belong together given explanations of things which are missing in the Herrenbuch.
Also “Jacken and Mäntel“ 16th edition belongs to the Herrenbuch 16th edition.
I have never seen “Jacken and Mäntel“ 17th edition? Does it exist?
“Jacken and Mäntel“ 10th edition 1954 belongs to the Herrenbuch 15th, 1954 edition. I have seen “Jacken and Mäntel“ 11. edition but never 12/13/14/15.
In “Jacken and Mäntel“ 10. and 16. Edition, they show the making of a Jacket like the men coat. Very interesting, its just the breast dart what differs.
Edition 18. does not have the making anymore, there was a complete nice, small extra book printed in 1967, to generate extra profit for the Bekleidungs-Akademie. The 18th edition has an improved sleeve part and other minor improved drafts, most important is the chapter of "Der praktische Zuschnitt fuer anomale Wuchsart und Haltungen". It shows and explains in 30 pages how to apply measurements of different body examples regarding balance and arm scye heights. No book has that content and that makes the book outmost worthy.
Every German men tailor should have at least one of the older books around the 10th edition and the 16th edition or 17th edition if it still has the making of the jacket, and the 18th edition. For the “Fachteile” you need those books, and you get plenty of ideas of cuts and designs.
When you deal with those old "Jacken und Maentel" book you need to know that Bekeleidungs-Akademie calculated 30 years with the wrong front lengths and admitted in March 1975 in Rundschau that they did. They already had secretly changed their courses in June 1974 teaching the right proportions. Those proportions where known since 1945 already. In order to hide this mess they used women bodies in their books with little breast sizes, so the books are not wrong only the front lengths are about 2cm to short in proportion.
I just was looking in "Blusen und Kleider", the new system starts with 20th edition, 1975. All edition prior that are only for getting drape ideas, LOL
Edited by Der Zuschneider, 01 September 2011 - 06:13 AM.