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Why Women Need Bespoke Tailoring


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#1 Sator

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 07:38 PM

The whole idea behind ready made garments is that the shape of the body conforms to scientifically predictable proportions. In reality, you can rarely accurately predict the fundamental anatomical measures just from a chest measure, any more than you can predict the shape of the bust from the chest measure. So you find these predictions fail routinely. The end result is that ready made garments end up fitting only the Mythical Ms Average ie nobody. It doesn’t fit YOU!!!

Here is a good example of this on a local newsreader, Samantha Armytage. It always bugs me the way her coats do not fit her bust shape correctly. The end result are these unacceptable drags at the armhole pointing to the bust, which naturally annoys the heck out of me.

These sorts of drags (see arrows) are classical on a figure with a more prominent bust (Samantha has a very attractively curvaceous UK 12/US 14 figure):

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The pattern needs to be adjusted to allow for her bust shape and to remove these drags. You can see how you also get these cross shaped horizontal drag lines across the bust:

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You can see in this photo how the curved panel seams (going into the armhole of the sleeve) actually helps to get a slight cleaner fit:

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However, even then the pattern has not been adjusted for HER figure in particular, and although better, the problem remains. Nor can alterations tailors adequately deal with this complex fitting issue.

Part of the problem is that hourglass figures are not fashionable, and makers want their clothes to be seen worn more by modern boyish skinny figure. A bespoke garment that follows every curve would allow an hourglass to show off her figure to full effect, thus bypassing the way the modern garment manufacturing industry has largely shunned them.

This is why women need bespoke tailoring today more they ever did. With more and more women entering public office, or climbing their way up in the corporate world, the need for high end tailoring for women is more acute than ever in the past, and it is precisely now that women who need to cultivate their professional image should be turning more to bespoke tailoring. Yet, in reality, the opposite seems to be happening without a reversal of the trend anywhere near in sight.

#2 Sator

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 08:07 PM

A better cut and fitted coat on a fairly curvaceous figure. Note that the pocket at chest level is not only decorative, it hides an extra bust dart:

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Note the absence of any unwarranted drags and how it sits cleanly into the waist while tracing out the figure.

#3 Valentina

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 08:34 PM

For industrial clothing is the norm. Part of the value of chest darts transferred to the armhole. Therefore, if the breast is large, ledge of any product will look exactly like what we see.

#4 Sator

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 09:13 PM

Ava Gardner is quite curvaceous too (classical hourglass):

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#5 Sator

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 09:16 PM

An older and much more matronly figure. Yet the coat fits perfectly into her waist and the bust is fitted like a bespoke bra:

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#6 S Stuart

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 07:37 PM

I'm glad I'm not the only one who sits there and critiques a newsreader's fit - sometimes it is so distracting I miss the actual news headlines!

I think a newsreader is one of those professions where a custom made garment is really important, as not only are they on show. but drag lines etc are accentuated under the lighting and there is no room for error. I know from photographing my own calicos or finished garments that the camera never lies.
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#7 eboli

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 05:37 AM

Here's "The two and only Jane Russell", as Bob Hope put it. A perfect fit, isn't it?
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www.barbaraboll.com

#8 Schneidergott

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 03:46 PM

After the very late night news they show the companies which provide the clothes for the news readers. It's a very long list!
They probably get the clothes for free plus they might even make money with it by getting paid for the advertisement. A win-win situation!Posted Image
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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#9 ACECAPS

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Posted 16 September 2011 - 06:42 AM

After the very late night news they show the companies which provide the clothes for the news readers. It's a very long list!
They probably get the clothes for free plus they might even make money with it by getting paid for the advertisement. A win-win situation!Posted Image

IMAGINE HAVING THE WORST-FITTING GARB OF YER COMPANY ON THE "ARD"(1ST GERMAN TV CHANNEL)´S ANCHOR(WO)MAN.
AND THEN THE CREDITS....
THERE´D BE NO MORE CUSTOMERS IDLING TO YER COMPANY´S PREMISES;-)



#10 Simeon54

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 09:45 AM

I love the image of the 'matronly' woman, as Sator puts it! Her outfit fits perfectly, and suits her. I can fit a skinny model any day, but I'm not sure I'd know how to go about achieving something like this. I'd love to learn!


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