134 replies to this topic

[Der Zuschneider]

What four times... just press the fusible under some lining until you think it looks ok.

[rs232]

I bought a whole roll from a local merchant who already had a Gygli account.

[napoli]

What four times... just press the fusible under some lining until you think it looks ok.

It burnt sometimes.

Please help me on my rookie thread, I am posting a draft there . thanks Chivas is visiting you soon..

This is the Armscye tool I got in mind and can find locally or similar, the one for painters.

Is ok?

Or this others

http://www.dfh.es/producto-Reglas-dibujo-Profesional-tipo-Sastre.html

One there has a water drop shape, for armscyes, is ok for me?



http://www.materialesbellasartes.com/materiales-diseno-grafico-materiales-dibujo/sastre-corte-confeccion-patronaje/plantillas-sastre-corte-confeccion-modistas/producto.html?p=471

Edited by napoli, 04 September 2012 - 05:58 AM.

[napoli]

I've been on a shirtmaking binge recently because all of my shirts were getting a little old, and thought I'd post these for the visual fun and to illustrate a few important concepts for completeness' sake.

From left to right: Blue stripe on white cotton, multi-coloured stripes on white cotton, 2x blue cotton chambray, pink stripe cotton, casual chequered cotton, black stripe cotton, and two grey and blue oxford cotton/silk blends.



And finally, a cotton/silk blend with blue overcheck:



Arrows illustrate points of interest:

Top: match the curve at the front/yoke seam to the shoulder's natural contour. Have sufficient ease at front shoulder to be able to stretch, but not so much as to create excessive folds at front shoulder. I cut long sleeves, as the extra length is not visually apparent when the cuffs are closed, but is important so that the wearer can lean forward, elbows on the table and not show excessive wrist. Optional aesthetic: collar that sits fairly high on the neck, so that a tie can stand away from the neck at the knot. This also requires a certain shape collar that can leave space for the tie knot.

Middle: Sleeve volume is a matter of preference, but I tend to cut slimmer sleeves, being slim myself (so, single pleat). Again, sufficient ease in the sleeve behind the shoulder so that leaning forward doesn't cause tightness across the back. Match the pattern at the sleeve placket. You'll also notice that the sleeve is curved at the cuff (look at the checks), to minimise "bunching" at the front of the wrist.

Back: Yoke should sit flat against the back, and be optically straight along the length, except at any ease in the shoulders. Sorry about the bunching at the neck; that shirt was finished five minutes prior and the collar is still stiff and tends to stand away from my neck a little until I wash it. Also notice the ease in the back and sleeve at the shoulder area - again, so that I can reach forward without stressing the shirt back without the sleeves pulling upwards. It may not look as "clean" in an internet photo, but tight shirts that restrict mobility look far worse in real life.

Back aesthetics: It is possible to minimise "bunching" at the back shoulder by hiding the necessary ease in shoulder pleats, but I don't really like the look of back pleats that much, and don't have a very rounded back, so I don't use them. It is also possible to achieve a cleaner hanging back with darts (and these are more anatomically correct), but I don't like interrupting the pattern and think they look a little effeminate, so again, though they're more "correct", I don't use them due to my taste. Billowing at the back is reduced when the shirt is worn tucked in, which is how I wear all my shirts.

Other details:

It is possible (although tricky) to match stripes on split yokes with chevron patterns at the shoulder. Don't forget to stretch the at the underarm curve areas before flat felling to avoid wrinkles (the inside curve on this seam is longer than the outside curve).



However, on directional patterns, you really need to plan and pay close attention when cutting, otherwise you get this mistake:



Always match plackets where possible:



Matching gussets may not always be possible:



But when possible, match gussets:

Any lesson for pattern matching? Now I am starting with striped and checked ones after
do several solids. Thanks

[cacrosdale]

Napoli, I'll take a stab at it, but it may be confusing, even to myself, as I am thinking this through before actually doing most of this myself. . . .

Spots to pattern-match (that I can think of):

1. Matching tops and bottoms of collar.
2. Matching inside and outside of collar stands.
3. Line up yoke with sleeve.
4. Matching inside and outside of cuffs.
5. Matching sleeve plackets to sleeves.
6. Matching left front to right front (have the pattern match so the left and right front look like one piece).
7. Align the pattern so the center front line on the left front (the button/button-hole line) lines up with the fabric pattern in a nice way, if possible.
8. Center the pattern on the back.
9. Align gusset with side notch (if possible).

If insane:

10. Match back piece pleats to pattern (adjust left or right).
11. Match sleeve-bottom pleats to pattern.

1, 2, and 4 involve folding fabric so that pattern matches before marking and cutting. You can pin so it doesn't shift in cutting. May require additional match for facing piece on collar-stay opening if needed.

For 3, make sure that you mark the top-center line on both the yoke pattern piece (where the extra-piece of pattern from front meets the back to make the yoke extend over the shoulder) and the sleeve center line on the sleeve pattern piece. I would make sure to mark and cut the yoke first, especially if you are using a split yoke. Note where the yoke center falls and line up with sleeve center before marking and cutting sleeve--tiny adjustments to align perfectly may be needed.

6 and 7, start with left front and align with pattern to optimize look, noting where the center-front line is on the pattern. Flip and mark the right front, making sure to keep pattern matched on the center-front line. This, of course, assumes you are not using a front band, which is a whole other problem.

For 5, mark on sleeve where the placket will be cut. Align this with the center line on the placket pattern piece and note pattern match before cutting. You can also lay the placket fabric on top of the sleeve fabric to align fabric pattern first, and then mark to cut.

For 8, fold fabric to have pattern match before marking and cutting.

For 9, match gusset fabric on shirt before marking. Could be another fabric, could be ignored all together.

10 and 11, you are on your own with that.

Edited by cacrosdale, 17 October 2012 - 02:38 PM.

[napoli]

Thanks Cracosdale,

Meanwhile a member was asking me in PM about low puckering and found this would be nice to share.

http://www.amefird.c...ring-2-5-10.pdf

[Mr. Pink]

Press those bad boys open, especially at the tips, before you turn the collar- you'll see the same result as the industrial press

[tailleuse]

Press those bad boys open, especially at the tips, before you turn the collar- you'll see the same result as the industrial press

What's your preference for sewing the corners?

--Normal intersection

-- One or two stitches across the intersection

--Three or four rounded stitches at the intersection

In one class, I was taught to shorten the stitch about 1 inch from the intersection, sew the corner, and then 1 inch on the other side to resume the original stitch length.

[napoli]

What's your preference for sewing the corners?

--Normal intersection

-- One or two stitches across the intersection

--Three or four rounded stitches at the intersection

In one class, I was taught to shorten the stitch about 1 inch from the intersection, sew the corner, and then 1 inch on the other side to resume the original stitch length.

By free hand or using the compensate feet?

I am trying to do it myself, need some hours of practise yet.