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Drafting a simple dress pattern


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#1 saveira

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 07:13 AM

Hi to everyone,
Can we exchange discussions of the process of drafting a simple dress pattern? First, we need to take 11 measurements to do this, does any one know what these measurements are?
Hope to hear from you very soon. Thanks in advance. Saveira

#2 greger

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 08:49 AM

The amount of measurements depends on which system you use. You might even develope your own system over time. In the past some tailors used womens coat systems, which can still be done today. Somebody posted, I believe German, a pdf of many types of clothes. Mens, womens, boys and girls. Not sure where it is at. It shows basic to outlandish systems. Another person posted a bunch of pattern adjustments for some beautiful womens dresses, you would need a basic system for these adaptions. Once you have a well fitted pattern you can trace off of it for adjusting where ever your imagination takes you with some trial and error. Once you have your well fitted pattern you can keep that hanging on the closet wall to trace from.

#3 saveira

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 09:29 AM

The amount of measurements depends on which system you use. You might even develope your own system over time. In the past some tailors used womens coat systems, which can still be done today. Somebody posted, I believe German, a pdf of many types of clothes. Mens, womens, boys and girls. Not sure where it is at. It shows basic to outlandish systems. Another person posted a bunch of pattern adjustments for some beautiful womens dresses, you would need a basic system for these adaptions. Once you have a well fitted pattern you can trace off of it for adjusting where ever your imagination takes you with some trial and error. Once you have your well fitted pattern you can keep that hanging on the closet wall to trace from.

Thanks for your quick response greger,
You are right, the measurements depends on the system used but sometimes the system has so many measurements, that by the time you are finished, you would hardly want to draft another pattern for a different bust size. Based on my sewing experience I have realized that these 11 measurements when used to draft the bodice of the dress fits all bust sizes perfectly. I must admit that these measurements were developed using the information from this site. As home sewers, our tools consists of items such as (1) inch tape (an inch tape representing 1" is divided into 16 parts? Am I wrong? (2) proper measurements etc .

I request permission from the Administration Staff of this site to challenge all those who sew women clothes to identify the 11 basic measurements to draft a simple dress. (Hint: (1) Bust, (2) Waist, (3)Hip (4) Neck to Waist (5)......(6)......(7).... (8)....(9).....(10)....(11) Are you up to the challenge?

#4 saveira

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 02:03 AM

I think I have posted this topic in the wrong forum (Simple Dress Pattern). My intention was to get other members to communicate and to exchange knowledge based on experience and so on. I remember sitting in front of my computer and my children asking me what I was laughing about. After a while, they knew that I was in the Cutter and Tailor Forums reading comments between Sator, Schneidergott, Martin, Der Zuschneider, Nishijin and many other members. I just love how these members manage to communicate effectively , make jokes and yet get their messages across in such a way that you can't get enough of what they are teaching you.

The Admin Members have posted a lot of information for us women and I have gained a lot of experience from this forum. I taught the subject of Sewing/Pattern drafting last year and I referred all my students to visit this site. I know some of them did join the forum.

To draft the bodice of a dress pattern, I summarised the measurements in order to reduce the time spent in drafting.

Thank you for reading. If I do not get any communication on this topic that's OK because I will be keeping an eye open for other topic communications.

Saveira

#5 dwc

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Posted 21 March 2012 - 04:02 AM

Not been on for a while so have only just seen this topic. having had over 30 years designing and making womens clothes, including drafting the patterns I can now manage with just Bust, Waist, Hip and nape to waist measurements. Although drafting a pattern is a technical skill I believe it is an art skill as well, you can be a good efficient pattern cutter but you can also be a creative pattern cutter. Experience has made me so familiar with womens body shapes I can virtually cut a garment out with no measurements.
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#6 saveira

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 10:27 AM

I have not been on the system for a while also, and I agree with Greger statement: the amount of measurements depends on which system you use and your statement: drafting a pattern is an art skill. I think that regardless of how skilled you are, sometimes problems of fitting occur. For discussion sake, many books on pattern drafting show that with the bust increase the Nape to waist also increases, yet direct measure of most women revealed that a woman with a bust 92cm has a Nape to waist of 42cm and shoulder to bust point 23cm while a another woman with bust 137cm also has a Nape to waist of 42cm, and shoulder to Bust point 34.5 cm.

As an experience pattern cutter for women, how do you determine the Center Front Length for both women, since we must cut the front pattern longer that the back pattern.







#7 CoronarJunkee

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Posted 08 September 2012 - 08:46 PM

I don't exactly understand your question.

But I don't believe that a woman with a 137cm bust has her bust point only 7.5cm above her waist line.

Anyways. front length is in relation to back length. So if you have both, it should help you with your pattern.

Of course, a woman with a large bust can stand crooked, while a woman with a very small bust can stand very erect. But then you have the back width to help you hint at those, as well as the underbust circumference which points you towards cup size.

#8 Nula

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Posted 03 June 2014 - 01:06 PM

It would depend on the dress style as well.  When I think "simple dress", I think "tailored sleeveless sheath".

 

This assumes a closely fitted dress, not a flared skirt and loose bodice, in which case you wouldn't need all of these measures.

To reduce time tweaking a pattern, if you've got these your life will be that much easier:

 

Bust point-point (accounts for east-westing, even though you may want to bring it all in later, through your design - it lets you know what you're dealing with (brassiere agreement is vital))

Shoulder at neck to bust point (or CF neck base to bust point)

Underbust girth

 

(I don't measure the following as single measures, then you can account for body mass distribution ie:  full bust, wide back, sway back, protruding abdomen, full seat, flat seat etc.)

Overbust girth front

Back girth at overbust level

Waist girth front

Waist girth back

Hips-Seat girth front

Hips-Seat girth back

 

Cross front(good for scye placement)

Cross back

CF to waist length (vital for short/long waist determination)

CB to waist length

Waist to hip length (for lower torso length and to get the correct width in the right place)

Shoulder length

 

The torso lengths(CF/CB to waist and waist to hips) are so important and account for, in my opinion, numerous fitting problems, whereby the waist is in the wrong place, and the width of the hips is in the wrong place.  Additionally, fitting the bust (particularly larger busts), is easier when one knows where it is, so that darts/princess seams, etc. are in the correct position.  That's why I like all the bust measurements.  I don't believe it is wise to say:  "She has a 38" bust".  It is meaningless.  She might be wide-backed and small busted or narrow-backed and large busted. There's a world of difference between the two as we all know.

 

For very fitted dresses, It's best to wear the brassiere when measuring, that you intend to wear under the garment (for home sewers).  If you measure yourself with a sports bra on and then wear an extreme push-up bra under the actual garment, you may not get the results you desire.  Foundation garments can impact the final look to some degree.  In some cases, quite dramatically (1950's bullet bra, anyone?) 

 

I notice in our RTW specs that CF/CB lengths increase as stature increases.  This is an incorrect assumption.  A long waisted person is not necessarily taller and a short person does not necessarily have a short torso, in fact, I find in reality it is quite often the opposite.  This accounts for many fitting problems in RTW. 

 

Well, that's 15, not 11 (without sleeve/scye measures)






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