189 replies to this topic

[Felix]

From private these Dürkopps sell from € 350 in Germany. From a dealer I don't know. But it might be better to buy a new Juki 8700 for 800 with a Moretti motor (240 V and quiet). You can change to a servo motor later.

If you can spare the money, buy a new one. Depending on how much you can or want to spend, nearly any machine from Juki, Pfaff, Brother, Dürkopp-Adler, Siruba, Mitsubishi.

Used ones from Dürkopp (211, 271), Adler (396, 1296=Pfaff 463), Pfaff (463, 483, 563), Juki, Brother, some of the Singers
That Dutch dealer I meantioned, has a Pfaff 463 for € 250 and a 563 for € 350.
For an overview and to see which machines you might like, have a look at http://www.miamisewi...edle&zigzag.htm and youtube-videos from atlas levy sewing machines.

The golden scissors are for embroidery. They are called silhouette scissors or stork scissors, from looking like a stork.

[napoli]

From private these Dürkopps sell from € 350 in Germany. From a dealer I don't know. But it might be better to buy a new Juki 8700 for 800 with a Moretti motor (240 V and quiet). You can change to a servo motor later.

If you can spare the money, buy a new one. Depending on how much you can or want to spend, nearly any machine from Juki, Pfaff, Brother, Dürkopp-Adler, Siruba, Mitsubishi.

Used ones from Dürkopp (211, 271), Adler (396, 1296=Pfaff 463), Pfaff (463, 483, 563), Juki, Brother, some of the Singers
That Dutch dealer I meantioned, has a Pfaff 463 for € 250 and a 563 for € 350.
For an overview and to see which machines you might like, have a look at http://www.miamisewi...edle&zigzag.htm and youtube-videos from atlas levy sewing machines.

The golden scissors are for embroidery. They are called silhouette scissors or stork scissors, from looking like a stork.

Thanks! If some expert can find me a new Juki for 800 on Europe please tell me. I can´t.

Siruba is sold on my city for 1000, are good? thanks

[Felix]

Juki 8700:

http://www.ebay.es/i...=item51a006c092

http://www.ebay.es/i...=item256639de5f

[napoli]

Juki 8700:

http://www.ebay.es/i...=item51a006c092

http://www.ebay.es/i...=item256639de5f

Thanks!

Which model would you recommend me , the 8700 or the DDDL 5550?

Thanks!

[Der Zuschneider]

http://www.ebay.es/i...=item256639de5f

[napoli]

http://www.ebay.es/itm/NEU-Juki-Schnellnaher-Servomotor-/160628858463?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Haushaltsger%C3%A4te_N%C3%A4hmaschinen_PM&hash=item256639de5f

It has no thread cutter.

I like the 9000, direct drive, ideal to work at home overnight. No noise

http://maquinasdecoservives.es/tienda/category/industriales/maquinas-industriales-costura-recta/

Edited by napoli, 12 February 2013 - 03:45 PM.

[napoli]

Dear folks,

I have found a great used dealer on Europe, that sells one one machine.

new JUKI DDL9000BSS - €980 net. EXW, many on stock
used JUKI DDL9000SS - €530 net. EXW, one on stock, another two machines in future arrival.


By the way for doing shirts, do you recommend me a single movement ( pushing ) or double
as the double priced Juki 9010?

Thank you

Edit, Where is Nishjin, is he ok? I hope so

Edited by napoli, 14 February 2013 - 07:04 PM.

[amateursarto]

If you're talking about a machine that feeds from both the top and bottom as opposed to one that feeds from the bottom only, it's really personal preference. There are advantages to a machine that feeds from the top as well as the bottom. The main one is that the seams, if sewn correctly, will match up from beginning to end without the operator doing much work. The shift in seams can be overcome by developed skill of the operator. I have had both and it doesn't really bother me either way, so it would be up to you as to what you want. No one can really tell you what to get. Try and sew on both if possible and then decide.

[napoli]

Dear folks,

I got a problem.

I would like to put the shoulder seam were the upper pencil is, so it stands over my actual shoulder, not on the front , where the lower pencil is on the picture and on my body.

I already changed my shoulder slope to square shoulder mode, 1,5 cm that is why the lower pencil has another angle.


My idea to elevate the shoulder seam is to draft some extra cm on the front up part, then overlap the front and back parts and move just the line.

Is that ok? thank you

Edited by napoli, 07 March 2013 - 11:58 AM.

[napoli]

Dear folks,

After the scam on how to draft slevees, here I post this for your amusement

My teacher, the old fart scammed me. She teaxched me that to draft the body, first draft the upper body, divide it in 1/2 , then divide the upper resulting part into 1/2 and voila, magically the breast line or armhole line will be there...

On the german systems, armhole is got after the real measure of the client; a horizontal tape on the armhole, and a vertical
measure tape, then read from the 7th vertebrae of the back.

Is any way to find the armohole, just having the biceps measure and not this right armhole placement measure?

Also, on italian systems as Milano Modelismo, the scye is drafted 2,5 cm below of the breastline. And breast line is calculated 1/8 of the total height +2,5 cm. Ease.

Being watching several videos of internet mtm ones and no one measure the armhole, per example this cheapo one

Any clue?

I liked this way as well, but never seen it on any system etc.


Thank you

Edited by napoli, 19 March 2013 - 07:05 AM.