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Teach me about duponi silk


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#1 rs232

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Posted 09 March 2012 - 09:45 AM

1, 2, 3.

Duponi is not something I ever see as a suit, and I wonder, how does it wear? I've made a few duponi ties, and it seems to me that it would be very difficult to work with - little stretch, and would it not crease? I can't say I imagine it to be very comfortable, due to the stiffness. Is suiting duponi different from the sericin-rich duponi I'm used to?

#2 rs232

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 06:37 PM

Anyone?

#3 posaune

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 11:28 PM

I have worked with dupioni only for ladies. First: there is no stretch at all.
I have used it for mostly evening garments. But there are some dupioni silks without shine and with a heavy weight - this you can use for gentlemen. I have seen some coats.
I underline the jackets (with cotton batiste) and line the pants fully. I sew a little band with the crotch seam - this gives more stability. I sew with cotton thread because it is better the seams break not the fabric. The colors are outstanding as in all silk fabrics. The garments are a breeze to wear - right for a summer night. The creasing is moderate because of the underlinig.
lg
posaune
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#4 rs232

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 09:23 AM

So it sounds like it's more suited to a fancy coloured jacket than trousers...

#5 Terri

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:40 AM

It has been quite a while since I was given duppioni for a jacket, but there are different weight and heavier is better for jackets. I agree with Posaune, there is no stretch and little ability to shrink nicely so shaping must happen in the pattern, not under the iron.
I found that it sometimes tends to soften up quite a bit with wear and body heat. That may be something that is more common for us in the theatre though.
It is very striking though, makes a statement!
I don't know if trousers would be great in duppioni. It doesn't have a lot of/any drape like a wool does. The nature of the fabric/weave can make it quite bouncy (for instance, the legs may look quite tubular) and it generally has no bounce in the other direction.
Hope that helps.
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#6 rs232

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Posted 21 March 2012 - 09:13 AM

Another duponi piece, this time an unlined jacket: (scroll down for photos)




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