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Alterations advice on barrel chest and squared shoulders


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#1 jeffrey2117

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 08:34 PM

Hello All,

I have a client who has brought me a military officer dress uniform with eppaulettes for alterations. The jacket itself has been extensively altered in the past to fit chest shape.

The problem is so severe that it is a distractor and draws negative attention to a senior officers dress uniform for more events requiring its wear. This is not the evening dress or mess dress jacket.

The client has a barrel chest, small waist and squared shoulders. I need to let out chest 1.5 inches and waist .75 inches.

The issue that I have is that the shoulders of this jacket are too wide for him off the shoulder on each side by 1.5 inches. The Front of the shoulder looks fine as the chest pulls out the excess.

The jacket has unsightly wrinkles on the top back of shoulders and too loose on the back of the shoulder between the shoulder back and armhole.

My first plan of action to attempt to correct this deficiency is to simply layer additional padding in the affected areas to see if that will give a smooth appearance.

Second plan is more drastic; remove collar, go into shoulder, arm, neck take apart shoulder from neck to shoulder and reset the back shoulder about .5 inches to attempt to raise the back of the shoulder and pull out the wrinkles where shoulders drop.

I will also reset the sleeve between the shoulder and and armhole 1.0 inches and taper off to get rid of unsitely excess in this area.

I would appreciate and look forwards to any comments, methods or advice for this particular alteration.

Kind regards,

Jeffrey2117
"An intelligent man knows he is ignorant, a ignorant man knows he is intelligent".

#2 jeffrey2117

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 08:40 PM

Hello All,

I have a client who has brought me a military officer dress uniform with eppaulettes for alterations. The jacket itself has been extensively altered in the past to fit chest shape.

The problem is so severe that it is a distractor and draws negative attention to a senior officers dress uniform for more events requiring its wear. This is not the evening dress or mess dress jacket.

The client has a barrel chest, small waist and squared shoulders. I need to let out chest 1.5 inches and waist .75 inches.

The issue that I have is that the shoulders of this jacket are too wide for him off the shoulder on each side by 1.5 inches. The Front of the shoulder looks fine as the chest pulls out the excess.

The jacket has unsightly wrinkles on the top back of shoulders and too loose on the back of the shoulder between the shoulder back and armhole.

My first plan of action to attempt to correct this deficiency is to simply layer additional padding in the affected areas to see if that will give a smooth appearance.

Second plan is more drastic; remove collar, go into shoulder, arm, neck take apart shoulder from neck to shoulder and reset the back shoulder about .5 inches to attempt to raise the back of the shoulder and pull out the wrinkles where shoulders drop.

I will also reset the sleeve between the shoulder and and armhole 1.0 inches and taper off to get rid of unsitely excess in this area.

I would appreciate and look forwards to any comments, methods or advice for this particular alteration.

Kind regards,

Jeffrey2117



I plan to reset the shoulder seam .5 inches from shoulder arm area and taper to collar when I do this part.
"An intelligent man knows he is ignorant, a ignorant man knows he is intelligent".

#3 jukes

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 01:54 AM

My advice would be to remove the sleeves and collar, undo the shoulder seams and baste them, now try it on the client with no sleeves or collar (make sure you guard against the neck hole stretching) undo the basted shoulder seams one at a time and pin them in the required position making sure the armholes sit in the correct position on the client. You might have to move the shoulder seams either horizontally or vertically. Re cut sleeve head to suit new armhole.

#4 Lewis Davies

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 02:57 AM

I'm going to solve your problem for you very simply
this uniform was not made for the gentleman he has acquired one from another officer
its a common problem
take his measures and see how they correspond to the jacket and work back from there
you should be able to solve the problems before taking it right apart

#5 jeffrey2117

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:38 PM

I'm going to solve your problem for you very simply
this uniform was not made for the gentleman he has acquired one from another officer
its a common problem
take his measures and see how they correspond to the jacket and work back from there
you should be able to solve the problems before taking it right apart



Hello Lewis,

I love simple solutions to confirm the fitting issues. I will see client today and take the measurements. I have completed alterations for chest and waist yesterday evening.

I am positive that I will be following Jukes advice on completing the alterations on this garment. I had similar ideas for resolution.

While working on this garment, I could see the extent of alterations done prior. The area of primary focus was the barrel chest issue.

I see that the front of the sleeve between the arm and chest was also recut tighter, but not the back of the arm. They did nothing to resolve the square shoulders issue.

The prior alterations, even though it did not solve all issues, was very neatly done, with exception of topstitching for pockets and sword slit was removed.

The topstitching on pockets was wrong color thread for uniform, which I will correct for client. I will have to find correct material to remake sword slit, otherwise that will have to come later.

Thank you for taking time to respond with good advice.


Regards


Jeffrey2117
"An intelligent man knows he is ignorant, a ignorant man knows he is intelligent".

#6 jeffrey2117

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:50 PM

My advice would be to remove the sleeves and collar, undo the shoulder seams and baste them, now try it on the client with no sleeves or collar (make sure you guard against the neck hole stretching) undo the basted shoulder seams one at a time and pin them in the required position making sure the armholes sit in the correct position on the client. You might have to move the shoulder seams either horizontally or vertically. Re cut sleeve head to suit new armhole.



Hello Jukes,

Thank you very much for the advice and method of completing this alterations. I am positive that I will follow your advice, as this is very similar to what I intended myself.

I appreciate your alterations advice on this garment.

If you read the reply to Lewis Davies, you may read more details of my findings after I began correct alteration of the chest and waist area.

Lewis wrote in his reply post, to simply measure and confirm prior to conduction alterations.

Good advice to remind us all to confirm with measurements and keep it simple.

I tend to over detail all alterations to make it perfect fit. If I am not satisfied, the client should not be.

I like to the custom or alterations request only one time and one way, correctly!

Kind regards,

Jeffrey2117
"An intelligent man knows he is ignorant, a ignorant man knows he is intelligent".

#7 Todd Hudson

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Posted 27 April 2012 - 10:01 AM

This topic is very technical and as such belongs in a different section of the forum. Les Incroyables is under the category of L'Anglomane - for Non-Technical Topics on Modern Style, Fashion, and Aesthetics. I think an admin can move the whole thread somewhere else.
Thank you,
Todd

#8 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 01:13 PM

In order to do such alteration there need to be a lot of knowledge. Sometimes alteration is more complicated than making a new garment.

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#9 jeffrey2117

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 08:40 AM

In order to do such alteration there need to be a lot of knowledge. Sometimes alteration is more complicated than making a new garment.



Hello Der Zuschneider,

You are absolutely correct. Alterations such as this are not for the faint-hearted individuals.

I followed Lewis davies advice to measure and confirm prior to alterations and Jukes method for correction of jacket fit issue.

The client came in for fitting today and was very pleased and amazed at how well the garment fit, especially in shoulders.

I appreciate the advice from yourself and all other forum members.

Todd wrote in earlier reply that this post was in inappropriate area. I find I am unable to post in professional area at this time.

I have written to Sator to request an upgrade to professional status, that may be posted properly and upload to forum.

Additionally, I have a unusual and difficult alteration request to seek your professional opinion, comments and advice.

Regards,

Jeffrey2117
"An intelligent man knows he is ignorant, a ignorant man knows he is intelligent".

#10 jeffrey2117

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 10:43 PM

This topic is very technical and as such belongs in a different section of the forum. Les Incroyables is under the category of L'Anglomane - for Non-Technical Topics on Modern Style, Fashion, and Aesthetics. I think an admin can move the whole thread somewhere else.
Thank you,
Todd


Hello Todd,

Thank you for reminding me to post in proper catagory for such technical issues.

I am currently unable to post in the professional area. I am awaiting upgrade to professional status at this time.

I wrote a request for status update to Sator as he is the administrator. I understand he is taking a well earned break at this time.

I am not certain that one of the moderators have the rights to update my status also. I will write and ask one of them.

Thank you for taking time to keep me in line.

Regards

Jeffrey2117
"An intelligent man knows he is ignorant, a ignorant man knows he is intelligent".




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