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Placement of stripes on trousers


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#1 Philip_AMS

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 08:21 PM

So I'm curious on a first baste where best to place stripes of the trouser. I was told never to place a direct stripe on the front crease but also reading a book of classic tailoring by robero Cabrera He mentions only to be concerned about placing the CF in the middle of a stripe.

I was planning to place and match the stripe in the outseam on the hem and hope to place the crease line on the front in the middle of the stripe.

The cloth pin stripes are 1.5cm spaced. Are there any other books that mention placement of stripes and check as I only have come across it on Roberto's classic tailoring book.
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#2 Torry Kratch

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 12:20 AM

Hello Philip_AMS!

Good question! Earlier we talked about it With the respected Der Zuschneider.

My experience is that if the strips is thin (1 mm) and the distance between the strips of one cm or more, the better to place the fold line between the strips.
The reason is that in the process of sewing and ironing inevitable slight distortion (error), and eventually fold line (on the rear half below the knee) "run away" with stripe.

Placement of the fold line between the bands gives you more peace of mind and does not violate the aesthetic.
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#3 Lewis Davies

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 12:50 AM

always always place on the fold
no matter what you are told this is the correct way to place
simple logis
whats the straightest part of the garment the front crease why would you put a stripe any where else?
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#4 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 01:17 AM

The center fold lays exactly on top of the stripe, nothing else!
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Schneidern heisst, viel Wissen, viel Arbeit und keine Kohle im Sack, dafuer aber viele Kunden, die alles besser wissen.  :Big Grin:


#5 Katherine Maylin

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 08:33 AM

I think Philip meant running the crease in the middle of a stripe rather than directly on it, but still paralell, I agree with Torry, it's easier to press when the crease is not on a very thin stripe.
I always have a pattern match at the centre front, and that for me dictates the placement of the crease on a particular part of the stripe.
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#6 Terri

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Posted 01 May 2012 - 08:04 AM

Right on the stripe for me, especially with a pinstripe. Otherwise with wide stripes in the middle of one, depends then on what happens at CF where you want the dominant colour stripe to be.
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#7 greger

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Posted 01 May 2012 - 12:14 PM

What about lining the strips up with the coat?

#8 zanzare

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Posted 24 May 2014 - 11:25 PM

I think it is more important how the stripe looks in the CF, the bigger/more prominent... the stripe (and the space between the stripes9, the more important is that. Once I decided that, I match the crease either exactly on the stripe (in the center of a big stripe) or in the space in between the stripes (once again the center). But I always keep an eye what happens in the CF. And I want to match the stripe with the coat or waistcoat.


Edited by zanzare, 24 May 2014 - 11:26 PM.





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