So I'm curious on a first baste where best to place stripes of the trouser. I was told never to place a direct stripe on the front crease but also reading a book of classic tailoring by robero Cabrera He mentions only to be concerned about placing the CF in the middle of a stripe.
I was planning to place and match the stripe in the outseam on the hem and hope to place the crease line on the front in the middle of the stripe.
The cloth pin stripes are 1.5cm spaced. Are there any other books that mention placement of stripes and check as I only have come across it on Roberto's classic tailoring book.
Placement of stripes on trousers
Started by
Philip_AMS
, Apr 29 2012 08:21 PM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Philip_AMS
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Posted 29 April 2012 - 08:21 PM
#2
Torry Kratch
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Posted 30 April 2012 - 12:20 AM
Hello Philip_AMS!
Good question! Earlier we talked about it With the respected Der Zuschneider.
My experience is that if the strips is thin (1 mm) and the distance between the strips of one cm or more, the better to place the fold line between the strips.
The reason is that in the process of sewing and ironing inevitable slight distortion (error), and eventually fold line (on the rear half below the knee) "run away" with stripe.
Placement of the fold line between the bands gives you more peace of mind and does not violate the aesthetic.
Good question! Earlier we talked about it With the respected Der Zuschneider.
My experience is that if the strips is thin (1 mm) and the distance between the strips of one cm or more, the better to place the fold line between the strips.
The reason is that in the process of sewing and ironing inevitable slight distortion (error), and eventually fold line (on the rear half below the knee) "run away" with stripe.
Placement of the fold line between the bands gives you more peace of mind and does not violate the aesthetic.
#3
Lewis Davies
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Posted 30 April 2012 - 12:50 AM
always always place on the fold
no matter what you are told this is the correct way to place
simple logis
whats the straightest part of the garment the front crease why would you put a stripe any where else?
no matter what you are told this is the correct way to place
simple logis
whats the straightest part of the garment the front crease why would you put a stripe any where else?
#4
Der Zuschneider
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Posted 30 April 2012 - 01:17 AM
The center fold lays exactly on top of the stripe, nothing else!
If you don't love to work long hours for little money don't try to become a tailor.
If you go crazy cause you can't solve a certain tailoring problem then put the stuff aside and go for a walk it might be possible you end up in the funny farm. LOL
If you go crazy cause you can't solve a certain tailoring problem then put the stuff aside and go for a walk it might be possible you end up in the funny farm. LOL
#5
Katherine Maylin
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Posted 30 April 2012 - 08:33 AM
I think Philip meant running the crease in the middle of a stripe rather than directly on it, but still paralell, I agree with Torry, it's easier to press when the crease is not on a very thin stripe.
I always have a pattern match at the centre front, and that for me dictates the placement of the crease on a particular part of the stripe.
I always have a pattern match at the centre front, and that for me dictates the placement of the crease on a particular part of the stripe.
#6
Terri
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Posted 01 May 2012 - 08:04 AM
Right on the stripe for me, especially with a pinstripe. Otherwise with wide stripes in the middle of one, depends then on what happens at CF where you want the dominant colour stripe to be.
#7
greger
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Posted 01 May 2012 - 12:14 PM
What about lining the strips up with the coat?
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