Sleeve fit questions
Posted 14 May 2012 - 01:47 AM
Posted 31 May 2012 - 10:03 AM
This is funny, I don't think of cap height per se, but match my draft to the scye laid flat, with the sleeve held away from the body at the desired angle, with added ease at the back of the shoulder. The amount of ease to add is determined by the amount of ease already integrated into the back piece, and the physiology of the arm and deltoid in question.
The way I understand sleeves, I think you are right. At least, I think the same way as you do.
That said, this is theory. It is the "geometrical" way to cut a sleeve. When you have cut a few of them for different measures and figures, you start seeing some shortcuts. Some proportions end being so close in many kinds that it becomes easier just to memorise the usual result and always use it. Not forgetting the domain of validity of this shortcut, because it does not work in every case.
Using sleeve cap height such as 4", 6" etc. is just one of those shortcuts that make a cutter's life easier.
Oh, and they have a very practical reason :
there used to be a time (not that far away, today's master shirtmakers in their 50s may have learned to work that way) when the cutter didn't make a patter for the sleeve. He saved time by using a block for the sleeve head. On the pattern for the front, the patternmaker had written the sleeve top block to use, the length and the bottom width.
The cutter/stricker then used the said block to draw the sleeve head, marked the length, the bottom width, and shaped the seam as he judged fit.
I don't know why, but the sleeve head block was designed from the height of the cap and not from its width. There is of course a relationship between those 2 number. If you take a 4" head, draft your sleeve, and draw a line 2" under the head, you should get the width of the 6" head.
All this wasn't really precise. Shirts were undergarments, cut with quite some ease, and weren't expected to be as clean as we like them now.
Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Posted 28 May 2013 - 10:24 PM
Resurrecting an interseting thread.
I'm currently struggling with shirt sleeves and trying to experiment with different systems.
I'm interested by this draft posted by Che.
I think I could roughly locate point 1 but I have problems to locate point 6 from 2 and then 7, 8 and 9.
Same for 17 and 18 which are located after the hem is completed (so is there a relationship between 15, 16 etc and 17,18 .)
Could anyone please help me ?
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