Jump to content


Photo

fitting dresses and blouses


  • Please log in to reply
20 replies to this topic

#1 zokiTzar

zokiTzar

    Apprentice

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands
  • Interests:painting, tailoring,photography and film

Posted 13 June 2012 - 02:09 AM

hi
i am drafting and fitting from the book here on forum
german ladies 60s fashion from austria
Posted Image
this pic is first two stages of making base bodice which will serve me as a base for three dresses
one is striped shirt dress button all the way down pleat and yoke on the back
Posted Image

...another cool wool princess seam front panel simple everyday dress from 8oz wool
and one is a bit side draped very thin polka dot cotton
Posted Image

i have troubles judging the fit as i have no experience in doing close fitted but still comfortable dresses
how much ease and so on
if i look good fitting blouse waisted and fitted from rtw on same customer it is quite wrinkly and lots of ease
am i getting too close body for summer garment at all?
Posted Image

Edited by zokiTzar, 13 June 2012 - 02:17 AM.


#2 sartorbohemia

sartorbohemia

    Umsie

  • Professional
  • Pip
  • 7 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 13 June 2012 - 02:33 AM

The darts in the back need to be higher (mine end 2 cm above the bust line and this usually works well). If you do this change, you'll probabaly need to add something to the bust as the higher dart will take off more of the bust circumference.
I also think that you need a deeper dart in the front waist (maybe do the two darts as suggested) and take in the dart at the front bottom edge. Front darts are almost never symmetrical with the wistline, the amount taken off at the bottom is usually only 1 cm smaller than in the waist. Newer Muller&Sohn systems take this into account.
It also seems the front armhole should be wider at the front, but the wrinkles may also be a result of a wrongly positioned front shouldr. It is best to unpick the shoulder seam and repin on the person.

Actually, I'd try to use princess seams instead, because darts just always make a box-like shape.

#3 zokiTzar

zokiTzar

    Apprentice

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands
  • Interests:painting, tailoring,photography and film

Posted 13 June 2012 - 05:25 PM

thanks sb
i will have princess seams on finished dress jut need to make good base bodice so i can develop all other variations from it

#4 greger

greger

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,122 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Washington, USA

Posted 14 June 2012 - 10:56 AM

Looks nice.
I think the lower breast dart at the top goes to high.
An inch is maybe to close, unless you want a point.
Some say about 2 to 1 1/2 inches is close enough.
The end result that you and the customer want is all that matters.

#5 Schneidergott

Schneidergott

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,680 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Scotland

Posted 14 June 2012 - 07:00 PM

I implemented some of the suggestions here and modified the image:

Posted Image

I also found an old RS draft that I think is better than the one you used:

Posted Image

First you need to find the proper scye depth and waist position.
For the first place a piece of carton under her armpits and guide it, horizontally, towards the centre back, mark the point there with a pin or a pen line.
Then find the smallest/ thinnest part of her waist and mark that, too, at the centre back (the draft goes from CB to front).
Your lady has strong blades, so she might need a dart in the back shoulder. In order to do so, make a cut along the half back height and from there to the seam position at the shoulder. At the horizontal line you open the cut for about 5 to 10 mm. The dart at the shoulder seam will open up accordingly.

Posted Image

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#6 zokiTzar

zokiTzar

    Apprentice

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands
  • Interests:painting, tailoring,photography and film

Posted 14 June 2012 - 07:12 PM

thanks sg
amazing help
off to print this out and draft it
:frantics:

#7 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 956 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 16 June 2012 - 02:32 AM

This is the draft of a Futtertaille. That is not meant for wearing. It is skin tight. It is a testgarment you have to do when doing your "master"exam.
The examinee takes the measurements, do the draft, cut, and sew it. So the examiner can see if the examinee understands the customer's body and can convert it into a pattern.
But for every day wear - you have to modify it.
lg
posaune
Go to the "The Rundschau System for Cutting Ladies' Coats". With Mueller you have always the same drafting prinicples be it a jacket or a dress.
You only adapt the ease.You can read this article and draft your basic pattern but using the ease for a tight dress.
You can use a bust ease about from 2.5 to 3.5 cm for a tight dress (blouse).
You take when bust measurement is bigger than 100 cm 0.7 for Rb, 1.5 cm for Ad, 1.3 for Bb = all together 3.5 cm
or for small bust measurements (lower than 100) 0.5 for Rb, 1 cm for Ad, 1 for Bb = all together 2.5 cm
waist = 4 cm to 6 cm and hip 4 cm to 6 cm (ease half pattern)and the armhole Rh + 1 cm deeper.

Edited by posaune, 16 June 2012 - 03:13 AM.


#8 zokiTzar

zokiTzar

    Apprentice

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands
  • Interests:painting, tailoring,photography and film

Posted 16 June 2012 - 04:37 AM

thanks posaune
sure i am aware of that
i just want to draft this and cut and sew it so it fits like a second skin
so i have a good base for developing it further
adding sleeves , raglan
collars and details
thanks for info on ease that will be very helpful
i need to buy those rundschau book for men and women
but they are so terribly expensive :(
i have jasons victorian tailor , claire shaeffers haute couture and both cabrerras
and all i could get from forums but i think that I will need to invest into Mueller system to have them and study them proprely
thanks
z

#9 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 956 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 16 June 2012 - 07:14 PM

Doing a Futtertaille will be a good and great lesson for you and help you to expand your knowledge very much.
For women I recommend "Bekleidung Schnittkonstruktion fuer Damenmode", Hofenbitzer, ISBN 978-3-8085-6236-9. It is about 50 Euro. It is modern and draft like Mueller.
In September there will be a second volume which deals with figure deviations.
lg
posaune

#10 zokiTzar

zokiTzar

    Apprentice

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands
  • Interests:painting, tailoring,photography and film

Posted 16 June 2012 - 07:21 PM

great thanks posaune :)

#11 zokiTzar

zokiTzar

    Apprentice

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands
  • Interests:painting, tailoring,photography and film

Posted 17 June 2012 - 03:12 AM

hi
this is now rundschau futtertaile
much more fitting i think
the only problem i have with scye depth and i think under the neck on fron i can take some in and not keep it straight all the way to the top
left armhole is cut to fit better and reduce wrinkles ads on right one
and the back has about 1cm pinned to reduce fullness
any corections would be apreciated so i can move to sleeves :)

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

#12 Schneidergott

Schneidergott

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,680 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Scotland

Posted 17 June 2012 - 06:12 PM

zoki, the balance is off. Front too short, back too long.

Posted Image

Did you follow the instructions given here: http://www.cutterand...?showtopic=2226 ?

Make your woman wear a tight fitting, preferably stretchy garment ( t-shirt, old one-piece swimsuit), on which you can mark points and lines. Finding her correct waist position will be the most important part, because other ones (front waist length and bust depth) depend on that.

I also think that the waist line sits a bit too deep, so the waist suppression is in the wrong place. And I'd recommend to round the darts a little bit at their strongest take out (means a curve instead of an angle).

Posted Image

Front lacks length, let out/ down the shoulder:

Posted Image

My suggestions for pattern corrections:

Posted Image

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#13 zokiTzar

zokiTzar

    Apprentice

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands
  • Interests:painting, tailoring,photography and film

Posted 17 June 2012 - 06:18 PM

great sg thanks
i measure waist with a cotton stay tape tied around it
and it should be ok if i go further up it is not the thinnest part anymore?
front length is off i think as i pulled up too much when pinning shoulders
thanks for help i will try to fix these

#14 zokiTzar

zokiTzar

    Apprentice

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands
  • Interests:painting, tailoring,photography and film

Posted 18 June 2012 - 01:23 AM

better i think especialy front
but back has this gaping at arm scye?
what is causing this
am i pinning the shoulders wrong?

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

#15 Schneidergott

Schneidergott

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,680 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Scotland

Posted 18 June 2012 - 03:16 AM

Slightly round back and therefore mildly sloping and forward shoulders are causing this. Just pin the excess away and transfer it to the pattern. Divide the excess between the shoulder seam and a dart at the rear armhole,
which you can close when you opened the back for blade length.
You might also have to shift the CB line a bit and relocate the cut for the blades to 1/2 of back height:

Posted Image

Fronts are looking good.

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#16 zokiTzar

zokiTzar

    Apprentice

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands
  • Interests:painting, tailoring,photography and film

Posted 18 June 2012 - 03:19 AM

thanks sg
so it looks i am on a good path ;)

#17 Schneidergott

Schneidergott

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,680 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Scotland

Posted 18 June 2012 - 03:23 AM

to give you a clearer image of what has to be done:

Posted Image

You just shift the back to a straighter position. Open the shoulders, straighten the back of armscye and pin away excess at CB seam.

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#18 zokiTzar

zokiTzar

    Apprentice

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands
  • Interests:painting, tailoring,photography and film

Posted 18 June 2012 - 03:37 AM

ok so it will be center seam that will take in this excess
ill give it a try
thanks a lot :drinks:




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users