The fabric seems to dip in along the middle of the shoulder seam in this navy shirt:
I made a shirt with a blue and white yoke to see how it would look because the fabric is a lot softer and elastic than the other shirts. It's smooth but follows my shoulder line too well, showing off those lovely clavicles. Please excuse the cheap looking collar I quickly made. It looks like the right side of the yoke is following the steeper slope of my right side while looking straighter on the left side. I imagine I could benefit greatly from a split yoke.
Here are pictures of the pattern:
The other fitting issue I’d like to fix is the drag on the right side of the body. It's been pointed out that my right shoulder sits lower:
Here are two more shots of this shirt:
I'm afraid pinching the end of the shoulder seam too much to eliminate the drag will cause the the shoulder seam to sit heavy at that point from too steep a slope.
I bought these fabrics locally and comparing them to higher end clothing, they don't feel luxurious at all. I'm not sure if this is playing a great deal in the fitting issue I have in the yoke, circled in the first picture. It isn't there on the sample shirt and the fabric used for that yoke feels and drapes a lot nicer than the fabric used for the completed shirts. I've been thinking it might be a wise idea to try basting the collar stand to see if I've been handling the fabric incorrectly and causing defects.
On a side note, I plan to extend the shoulder seam about 1/4" as well as the x-front about a 1/4" on each side, which is about 1/8" less than the change I made on the sample shirt. I feel the 3/8" addition on the shoulder seam was a little more than I wanted.
Edited by Che Pasticcio, 17 June 2012 - 06:41 AM.