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Textbooks on Cutting and Tailoring in French and Italian


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#1 Sator

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 05:49 PM

This is a stub only. Please contribute to this thread and help to expand it.

#2 Nishijin

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 11:31 PM

Here are a few books I know of in French :
(I have only a few of them, I found the others in books catalogues, but could not trace an edition of them yet).


Méthode de coupe pour hommes
Manuel Ladeveze-Darroux,


This is the book everyone interested in French Tailoring should have, so I list it first. M. Darroux was the owner and manager of the Académie Internationale de Coupe de Paris (Paris International Academy of Cut), where a lot of parisian cutters and tailors were (and still are) trained. The school was established in 1830, and the first edition of the guide is from 1860.

This method had many editions, the latest ones begin available from Editions Vauclair. Titles changed with time :

Méthode de Coupe pour Hommes
- 1860 (1st ed.) : Author : F. Ladevèze - ASIN ?

Cours de coupe du tailleur de Paris, ou l'Art d'apprendre à couper et confectionner les habits d'après le système actuel de mesurage
- 1874 (4th ed.), Author : F. Ladevèze - ASIN: B001C6L1HC

Méthode de coupe du tailleur de Paris : Ou Art d'apprendre à couper et confectionner tous les vêtements, d'après le système créé en 1860, par F. Ladevèze, modernisé et perfectionné par A. Darroux, modernisée par J. Darroux :
- 19? (12th ed.) - ASIN ?
- 1945 (14th ed.) - ASIN: B001D4PQCY
- ? 16e édition revue et augmentée, spécialement consacrée aux vêtements pour dames - ASIN : B001D4RAKK
- 1950 (18th ed.) - vêtements pour dame - ASIN : B001D4WSSE

Méthode de coupe du tailleur de Paris : Selon les principes modernisés du système Ladevèze-Darroux.
- 1952 (20e édition) - ASIN : B0017ZUSEU
- 1963 (22e édition) - ASIN : B0014UNLRY
- 1964 (23e édition pour dames) Ed. Bureaux d'éditions et académie de coupe Sens - ASIN : B0014UQZNG

Modern editions (2005, Ed. Vauclair) are in several volumes :
several books :
- Méthode de tracé des vêtements masculins classiques
- Méthode de tracé des vêtements masculins sportsware (vol. I & II)
- Méthode de tracés Vêtements féminins Classiques
- Méthode de tracés Vêtements féminins Classiques et Sportswear
- Méthode de gradation pour homme et garçonnet

In the 1950s, there was a by-product as an alteration method :
Méthode Ladevèze-Darroux. Essayages et retouches : Ou l'Art d'essayer et retoucher tous les vêtements
- ? - 2e édition - ASIN : B0017ZNGYY
- Modern edition : Méthode de retouche hommes et femmes (2 vol : pièces à manches / jupes & pantalons)

For all I know, this book is still the professional reference today in Paris, on which many professional base their own method. Old editions can sometimes be found on Ebay and in old books stores. Modern editions are available to order on the Vauclair web site.




La Coupe : Intéressant les tailleurs, tailleuses, couturiers, couturières, chemisiers et tout ce qui a rapport à l'habillement
1914, Association des professeurs de coupe, Paris
ASIN: B0014YR4ZA


Méthode pratique de coupe par les mesures
Author : J. Bentayou - circa 1890

A guide to draw gentlemen garments, including :
The differents measures to take, drawing the back, the side body and the front of the frock coat, patterns for the “jaquette droite” (Newmarket coat ?), the lounge coat (SB & DB), alterations for bent & erect man, the morning coat & dress coat skirt, the overcoat, the ladies vest, the sleeve for men & ladies, the ladies coat, the vest, the trousers & breeches.

This method is very practical, as it is easy to draw a pattern following it, but I could not understand the underlaying system : I found it impractical to cut anything else than the included coats, and could not use it to draw a modern lounge coat.



Nouveau livre du tailleur - traité complet de la coupe des vêtements d'homme
Author : Thirifoc - 1881
Ed : Imprimerie typographique de Félix Malteste & Cie.
34 plates, 134 drawings & patterns
Interesting book, including : body & skirt base pattern, pants pattern, modifications to different body shapes, gaiters, livery garments, clergy & law robes, uniforms, use of the body pattern to draw many coats and overcoats, and a few words about ladies tailored garments.
At the end of the book, the author summers some other cutting systems used in Paris, including the Compaing method (DeVere trained under Compaing).

I like this book, and used it to draft my own patterns (except for the sleeves, which are awful by today standards).


Le Livre tailleur, enseignant la coupe des vêtements en quinze minutes avec démonstrations et en une heure sans maître
Jules Despax de Samatan, 1871
ASIN : B001CB0AK6

I would love to find this one ! How to become a cutter in 15 minutes ! Why spend 15 years as an apprentice in Savile Row ? This book is 35000 times faster ! frantics.gif



Le Trésor du tailleur, ou la Coupe infaillible, nouveau système de coupe appliqué, depuis 1859, par Eugène Lejeune
Eugène Lejeune, 1863
Ed. Impr. de G. Jacob
ASIN: B001C5QR4K



Manuel théorique et pratique à l'usage des tailleurs, pour la coupe des vêtements d'hommes, contenant 81 planches
Siegwald père et fils, 1856
ASIN : B001BPYNPQ


Les Mystères de l'art du tailleur, ou la Coupe géométrique dévoilée
Eugène Staube, 1845
Ed. Appert
ASIN: B001BP7E52


Livre du tailleur, guide complet du tracé de la coupe et de la façon des vêtements, par M. Augustin Canneva, Suivi de l'hygiène du tailleur, par M. Monneret
1838
Ed. A.-L. Pagnerre
ASIN: B001CENIAC

Art du tailleur – contenant le tailleur d’habits d’hommes, les culottes de peau, le tailleur de corps de femmes & enfants, la couturière et la marchande de mode
M. de Garsault, Académie Royale des Sciences, 1769
An interesting book about the cutting & tailoring of French garments of the XVIIth century (Louis XV period).
It was included in a series of books by the Royal Academy of Science, describing the crafts of the time.


Those books are only about cutting, I did not find yet a French book about tailoring, but there should be some.
I've heard of the book La coupe tailleur, éditions Time-Life, from 1975, which I understood include something on how to make a coat. But I never saw it, I just found it listed on some blogs.

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Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
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#3 jefferyd

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 11:50 PM

La Technica dei Modelli (Trattato di modellistica d'abbigliamento), Antonio Donnano Ikon Editirice, 2004

Modern text in several volumes in Italian only

Il Modellismo Sartoriale- Technica del Modello Alta Moda e Industriale
Fernando Burgo, Istituto di Moda Burgo 2004
ISBN 88-900101-5-0

Has an english translation which is not always 100% but easy to follow.

Il Tagliatore di Abiti in Azione A. Panaro
Not sure of the date, 60's, I think.
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#4 Schneidergott

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 07:41 PM

Il Tagliatore di Abiti in Azione[/b] A. Panaro
Not sure of the date, 60's, I think.


I recently got the 8th edition, which is from the 60's, looking at the fashion drawings.
They do show some older drafts taken from earlier editions (slightly different way of drafting darts and shoulder lines).

Very nice book, actually.

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#5 Sator

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 07:51 PM

Wow. This is growing into quite a thread!

#6 jefferyd

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 11:54 PM

I recently got the 8th edition, which is from the 60's, looking at the fashion drawings.
They do show some older drafts taken from earlier editions (slightly different way of drafting darts and shoulder lines).

Very nice book, actually.



Yes, the most intelligently written (if a bit florid) of the Italian cutting texts that I have seen.

EDIT- the basic draft includes 1" provision for the "canello" (drape) on the back only and provides instructions for adding it on the front scye, if desired, without extending or altering the shoulder or waist.
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#7 Schneidergott

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 04:17 AM

For women's garments:
Manuale di taglio, volume 1 & 2 (tecnica ed estetica dell'abito femminile) by Constantino Cataldo, direttore dell'Istituto Superiore di Alta Moda Roma.

Appears to be of decent quality, published in 1962.
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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#8 leomer

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 10:26 PM

La Technica dei Modelli (Trattato di modellistica d'abbigliamento), Antonio Donnano Ikon Editirice, 2004

Modern text in several volumes in Italian only

Il Modellismo Sartoriale- Technica del Modello Alta Moda e Industriale
Fernando Burgo, Istituto di Moda Burgo 2004
ISBN 88-900101-5-0

Has an english translation which is not always 100% but easy to follow.

<b>Il Tagliatore di Abiti in Azione</b> A. Panaro
Not sure of the date, 60's, I think.

..it is for sale..
..ma è "costoso"..lol..

http://cgi.ebay.it/w...category=118326
IL TAGLIATORE DI ABITI IN AZIONE-METODO MASCHILE-1936
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#9 Schneidergott

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Posted 25 November 2009 - 02:55 AM

Domenico Ciraci: Metodo di taglio... per abiti maschili e femminili,
basato sui sistemi Proporzionale- Misto A MISURE DIRETTE

Roma 1966

Nice book, patterns and drafting system similar to the Panaro book, but the instructions are a bit more wordy and difficult to follow.
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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#10 Schneidergott

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Posted 29 March 2010 - 03:48 AM

Metodo di Taglio Uomo, published by G. Guarino.

Not really a drafting manual like the other ones since it uses special squares to draft a proportional pattern.
Once you get the hang of it, it produces good results to start with. This shows how it works:

Posted Image

The draft is based on half chest measurements, the shoulder seams are positioned to the rear.
Like in the Panaro system, the maximum scye depth is 26cm.

The book itself costs 65,- Euro and I paid 25,- Euro for shipping. The package gets pretty big because of the squares, although they are collapsible.
Guarino runs a tailoring school, Centro internazionale moda, but despite the name I do not know if he can be contacted in English.
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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#11 fabeca

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Posted 16 April 2010 - 02:25 PM

do you know if there any good textbook on cutting and tailoring in spanish?

#12 Sator

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Posted 16 April 2010 - 03:27 PM

do you know if there any good textbook on cutting and tailoring in spanish?


Sorry, maybe someone else will know better.

I should also say that if anyone wishes to post information on cutting in any language please feel free to post information here. Every country used to have tailor's guilds, which produced a journal for subscribing members. We need to find these old journals and cutting systems. Let's all preserve them, study them and share them!!!

#13 Jorge Calvin

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 01:25 PM

Hello!

My name is Jorge and I'm from Argentina.
Please excuse the translation and to use the google translator.
I have a book entitled "Course Du Tailleur De Paris".
Figure written by F. Ladevèze and is the 5th edition.
Belonged to my family by my mother because they were French and dressmakers.
It is in very good condition and I want to sell because no one continued this professional in the family and prefer to keep as someone who finds their usefulness and value.
If there are any interested please communicate.
Greetings and thanks!

#14 scissorhand

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 04:16 PM

Le Livre tailleur, enseignant la coupe des vêtements en quinze minutes avec démonstrations et en une heure sans maître
Jules Despax de Samatan, 1871
ASIN : B001CB0AK6

I would love to find this one ! How to become a cutter in 15 minutes ! Why spend 15 years as an apprentice in Savile Row ? This book is 35000 times faster ! :frantics:



Here you can find a selection of some of these books mentionned above , site with direct links to the search engine of bibliotheque national francais, where the access is free to download
http://couturestuff....e-gratuits.html
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#15 napoli

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 04:12 AM

I can trade vintage books on Spanish, looking for the Rocosa ones. PM me. 



#16 napoli

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 09:40 PM

I am looking for the italian book Il Taglio del sarto moderno per vestiari maschili per Rocco Aloi a 1939.
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#17 amateursarto

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Posted 06 June 2014 - 07:36 PM

I was just wondering, is the Panaro system for use ideally with the squadra rapportatore da sarto designed by Mr. Panaro?  I ask because it was mentioned that the  depth of scye measurement is limited to 26 cm.  If not, any idea why the system has this  limit?  Thanks in advance for answering this question.


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#18 Schneidergott

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Posted 07 June 2014 - 07:10 AM

It's not really a "limit" per se, it's a decision the author made to keep the scye depth at a limited depth rather than letting it grow further with each size/ chest width increase.

That special ruler makes it probably easier to do a draft, but it's not required. The system is very simple to use, although I find that the overlap at the centre front is slightly too big and the front balance a tad too short.


"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.





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