Posted 25 July 2009 - 01:46 PM
in fact i still have that old sponge cloth. its got that ancient smell. its only 60 years old.
- jeffrey2117 likes this
Posted 03 October 2009 - 03:28 AM
This article on shrinkage deals with woolens, not other cloths such as corduroy cotton, correct?
Posted 08 October 2010 - 07:11 AM
Posted 08 October 2010 - 01:27 PM
but it must wide enough to cover the width of the folded cloth plus an inch or two. the woolen is normally folded in half down its length.
the sponge cloth is soaked in cold water, and then wrung out solidly by hand. this makes it very wet with water but not dripping.
the woolen is laid out first to its full length. the wet cloth is laid on top.
starting at one end the two cloths are folded over in unison about six inches. then that is folded over making a double fold.
then this is repeated again and again till the whole thing is used up. about one hour is enough time to soak 12-14 oz suitings.
tropicals only need about 1/2 hour. its just a matter of judgment lighter cloth less and heavier more time.
the moist wool needs two people to shake it out and laid out flat on the cutting table and smooth out any wrinkles by hand.
then over night is usually enough time to dry out. dont forget to hang the sponge cloth to dry.
we usually pressed the woolen the next day before cutting.
- jeffrey2117 likes this
Posted 08 October 2010 - 06:04 PM
I don't think any tailor in my country (Poland) is doing that. I will try to convince my tailor to sponge cloth for my next suit hence the questions.
Posted 08 October 2010 - 08:20 PM
I know tailors who say they no longer do it with good cloth from quality merchants. If you want your want your cloth pre-shrunk, it is best to do it yourself, rather than lecturing your tailor to something he probably regards as old fashioned
Posted 09 October 2010 - 04:31 AM
If I buy fabric from Scabal, is it a point to sponge it?
- Juclesia likes this
Posted 09 October 2010 - 06:25 AM
Posted 09 October 2010 - 09:57 AM
The preshrunk cloth of today how much better is it shrunk today than even ten years ago, or at least 20 or 30?
If buying from a little indendent mill it then probably varies.
Posted 09 October 2010 - 10:07 AM
Spongeing can re-hydrate goods that have sat on a shelf for a while. And, it used to be necessary due to the weaving technology of the era.
But, if you're buying Scabal cloth, it's highly unlikely that it will require spongeing.
- therolandomeneses likes this
Dir, Product Development
Posted 09 October 2010 - 10:15 AM
I'm a difficult customer and I drive tailors nuts, but I don't care.
Asking your tailor his opinion about something, like the relevance of sponging the cloth you choose, is quite all right. It shows you care, and that you value his knowledge and experience.
Telling him what to do is presomptuous and a bit rude, as it implies you think you know his job better than himself.
Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Posted 09 October 2010 - 05:17 PM
As for beeing rude- if one is working with a skilled and devoted tailor it is the best to trust him, but not all tailors are like that. I think it is good for the customer to know as much as possible about proportions, fit, and technique not to allow short cuts.
Posted 03 May 2014 - 01:24 AM
I don't think that sponging is neccessary for today's fabric. Best is always to cut out the coat parts roughly enough, then iron those parts very hot with heavy iron and dump cloth. Then you rearrange the pattern on those shrunk parts and chalk them nicely. When you sew the parts together and iron out the seams, then you redraft or equalize lengths, is called in German "Auszeichnen".
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