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shoulder dart width


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#1 darjee11

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 03:22 AM

in school i have been taught to determine the shoulder dart width by taking the difference between across chest and across bust measurements. this method seems ok for normal bust prominences but it doesn't take into account the bust altitude and shape. how do we determine the dart width as accurately as possible taking into account the shape and altitude? I am aware of the neck front/bust point -bust point method . I was wondering if there are other methods.

#2 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 04:13 AM

You need to use the proportion which is 1/10 of the big bust measurement + the proportion of the additional front length which comes with it.
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#3 eboli

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Posted 28 July 2012 - 04:11 PM

When it comes to shoulder-breast darts you better forget the proportional system. With that method you will make a draft for a boyish female only. Afterwards you have to make corrections for other bust forms.
By far the best bust drafting method is that of A.A.Whife.
He has his own way of measuring the height and prominence of a bust (p. 82) by which he gets a right-angled triangle. The cathetuses are 1) the bust prominence and and 2) the absolute height difference between shoulder and bust. The hypotenuse is the breast point to shoulder distance on the body.
The acute angle of that triangle is the angle of the shoulder-bust dart in the basic draft.
I have simplified Whife's measuring method by transferring the angle between plumb line and shoulder-bust-point-line with two cardboard strips that I fix with clamps, clothes-pegs, strong paper-clips, whatever.
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#4 deborahlewislondon

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Posted 30 May 2014 - 10:26 PM

absolutely brilliant. thank you! 






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