Jump to content


Photo

Ladies trouser making


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 gramountoto

gramountoto

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 243 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Reunion Island

Posted 20 July 2012 - 06:06 PM

I would like to use this draft (thank you once again Sator) to sew a light linen trouser and I have some questions.


1/ What are seam allowances here? From what I understand, it's 1/2 inch but could someone please confirm it's true and the same allover the draft (except the CB and CF which are net I suppose).

2/ I would like to put just one pleat. Should I use the first draft and add a pleat as explained on the forum or use the second and suppress one (maybe by "fusing" both)?

3/ I don't understand this p.281 "The waistband [...] is often slotted at the back waist to allow back straps to function from inside the sideseams." Could someone please help me ?

4/ On the picture I can't see no fly although from this side one should see it for ladies. Is this just a super well made garment or is there another opening ?

5/I plan to put the linen in the washing machine once or twice to shrunk it before using it. Is this ok ? The trouser will need to be washed by machine regularly.


Gramountoto

#2 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Professional
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 621 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 20 July 2012 - 09:21 PM

That is a very wide leg trouser. Are you sure you want that? Only good for very slender (and long) girls like Marlene Dietrich
These pants were closed at side seam. A fly - was not for woman.

In my opinion you will do maybe better to take Mansie's draft for gents. They are more figure detailed and easily adapt for women.
lg
posaune

#3 Terri

Terri

    Pro

  • Professional
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 733 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Ontario Canada

Posted 20 July 2012 - 10:53 PM

1.I think the seam allowances are 1/4"
2.I would draft the plain front and manipulate it later for one pleat.
3. Not sure
4. As Posaune says, closure in side seam.
5. Yes prewash to preshrink, not sure how much linen shrinks, probably not a lot if you hang to dry. It will get softer.

I like the style, and maybe more flattering on many people than skinny leg trousers! All has to be in proportion though.

#4 gramountoto

gramountoto

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 243 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Reunion Island

Posted 20 July 2012 - 11:07 PM

Thanks Posaune,

Actually my girlfriend chose it. Maybe she hoped to get these legs along with the trouser... :spiteful:
I'll follow your advice. Plus I can get familiar with Mansie's system so that I can compare to Rundschau.

Just curious: are these side seam closed trousers completely out of fashion nowaday ?

Gramoutoto

#5 gramountoto

gramountoto

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 243 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Reunion Island

Posted 20 July 2012 - 11:17 PM

Thanks Terri for your answer,

So you think different from Posaune concerning this style ? I just took a decision (this is usually quite hard for me) and now I don't know anymore... I suppose it would take a whole book to explain about proportion but could you please share a bit of what you have in mind ?

#6 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Professional
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 621 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 21 July 2012 - 12:08 AM

When your friend choose this style, it is okay. She knows best.
Think of the legs as tubes. When the person has a more oval hip those "tubes" are too more oval means much width looking from the front. If she is the more rounded hip typ then it looks good, the tubes are more "round". Linen is fine for those wide pants. The side closure is nice (I don't have to sew it .-)). Sew a tape with the crotch seams, linen tends to grow on the body. The tape will stabilize the seam.
lg
posaune

Edited by posaune, 21 July 2012 - 12:10 AM.


#7 zokiTzar

zokiTzar

    Apprentice

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPip
  • 312 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Slovenia
  • Interests:painting, tailoring,photography and film

Posted 21 July 2012 - 12:09 AM

i must agree with terri here
i see too much women now trying to squeeze in some tight legins that were not meant for them and it just looks awfull
i did two wool trousers form my wife she never wore trousers and now she cant have enough of them
and they are wide as these with side zipper
anyway nowadays with a little retro/vintage touch she will look even more fashionable as masses in stretch jeans :)
plus feel 100% more comfortable on foot or bicycle

but i see the concern as many now even men are concerned with wider cuts as all needs to be strechy close to the body
which is ok if you are a model but for most people this is not the case, luckily IMHO :)

#8 gramountoto

gramountoto

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 243 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Reunion Island

Posted 21 July 2012 - 03:32 AM

Think of the legs as tubes. When the person has a more oval hip those "tubes" are too more oval means much width looking from the front. If she is the more rounded hip typ then it looks good, the tubes are more "round".

Sorry posaune, but I'm not sure to understand what you mean. Do "round" and "oval" refer to the section of the seat? or of the thighs?

Sew a tape with the crotch seams, linen tends to grow on the body. The tape will stabilize the seam.

Thanks for the tip. Can I simply cut a tape from cotton or lining straight grain?

Should I use Mansie's draft and change knee and hem accordingly rather than use this draft?

Thank you zokiTzar. What draft did you use for your whife's trousers? Any tip about the side zipper? Like for a dress I guess

#9 zokiTzar

zokiTzar

    Apprentice

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPip
  • 312 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Slovenia
  • Interests:painting, tailoring,photography and film

Posted 21 July 2012 - 06:55 AM

i used the same draft as you quote from forum here
side zipper is not a big deal just baste it in nicely to follow the curve
i mostly do zippers by hand anyway
I think in my small experience it is quite good draft and after one toile fix i had quite good base for later

#10 Lewis Davies

Lewis Davies

    Apprentice

  • Professional
  • PipPip
  • 296 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 24 July 2012 - 02:48 AM

ladies trouser making and ladies trouser cutting are quite similar to mens
women tend to have small hips and a large seat which isn't unusual but you have to take into consideration the age of the woman water retention what the garment is for because at different times of the month the garment could be too tight etc
so leave appropriate allowances for this
especially if it is high waisted
the construction of a Womans trouser can be very different or sillier it depends on what you want, the usual way is to make an insert like shorts in lining and use that method instead of half lined trousers for men

#11 gramountoto

gramountoto

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 243 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Reunion Island

Posted 24 July 2012 - 08:24 PM

the usual way is to make an insert like shorts in lining and use that method instead of half lined trousers for men


Thanks I'll keep that in mind. For this particular trouser I won't need any lining: I'll make it as light as I can. It's for tropical climate...

#12 gramountoto

gramountoto

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 243 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Reunion Island

Posted 09 August 2012 - 04:55 PM

Since the linen I use is striped I would like to cut the waistband in the cross grain to avoid horizontal lines at waist. Is this possible ? I will use linen light/medium canvas (two layers perhaps) for waistband interlining (cut in the grain).

Edit: I found an answer here. Maybe it can help someone.
http://fashion-incub...eve_waistbands/

Edited by gramountoto, 10 August 2012 - 09:50 PM.





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users