Welcome to New Members
Posted 01 April 2014 - 06:54 AM
Hi! I'm a 21-year old clothes enthusiast from Sweden, working on a bit of this and that. I have been sewing on and off for a few years; recently, last year, I have gotten more serious, gotten textbooks on tailoring and patternmaking, and started to put serious effort into learning the art of tailoring and clothesmaking. While I don't aspire to be a full-time professional, I do take it as a serious hobby, and as I am chronically ill, I have a lot of free time on my hands. My goal, aimed high, is to be able to, very slowly and carefully, put together a reasonably well-fitting full canvas suit from a custom pattern by the end of the year. I have a lot of supplies, tools, and work daily to improve my skills; and I have 5.65 metres of a pre-shrunk wonderful 120s wool/cashmere blend fabric, for when I feel ready to take on the big challenge (presumably after consuming many, many yards of muslin...). My biggest motivator is that I have unusual tastes and enjoy experimenting with clothes.
Currently, though I am caught up in shirtmaking, and actually I registered to ask a few questions about that (eased seams on complex cuffs, in this case). While I have put together a pretty nice-looking pair of pants (though my pattern needs some adjustment) and could probably make a waistcoat, I figure that I should start making myself comfortable around my equipment with shirts first; especially since I will be using the same basic sloper pattern to draft the jacket. Honestly, I have yet to put together a complete shirt; the body is no problem, but I want to focus on making perfect cuffs and collars before I seriously try to put it all together. My biggest enemy is that I often keep working obsessively even when I am too tired to concentrate; as I am a rheumatoid arthritis sufferer, this is obviously a recipe for disaster.
My books include "The Practical Guide To: Patternmaking for fashion designers, Menswear", "Classic Tailoring Techniques: A construction Guide for Menswear", and "Shirtmaking: Developing skills for fine sewing."
Well, that's a bit about me. I hope I will enjoy it here!
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Posted 20 April 2014 - 02:33 AM
I'm interested in cutting and fabrication of classic British men's suits, and I cut out and started making his first men's jacket. On your forum a lot of useful information which I read with interest .
I'm not good on knowledge of English and we have to use Google Translate , so I will be more to read the forum and only when necessary to ask.
Edited by Alex Ni, 20 April 2014 - 02:39 AM.
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Posted 22 April 2014 - 10:55 AM
Hi Cutter and Tailor Folks!
I'm completely amazed at what a wonderful resource this website is. I started out doing a quick search for a book on traditional tailoring techniques and ended up spending the better part of my day off browsing this site!
Right now I'm working as an assistant manager in a costume shop at a community college in Michigan. I love being able to sew every day, even if speed is emphasized over technique for our sort of theater. As for other experience, I have a BFA in fashion design and a bunch of pattern drafting (flat and draping) and construction classes under my belt. I also spent a bit of time doing bridal alterations and working as a technical design intern at a womens clothing manufacturer.
I decided that I absolutely had to join this forum because I am looking to upgrade my skills and perhaps find a new direction to go in career wise. I won't go on with my entire life story here, but I took a 4 year break from sewing/the fashion profession and the older, wiser version of me is looking to get back into the game.
Even though I'm not a total newbie, I still consider myself a beginner here. The one semester I had in school of tailoring really just showed me how much I don't know. I made one jacket (pad stitching and all) as part of that class, but I really sort of want to start with the basics again here. I'm thinking its time that a certain piece of purple wool in my stash becomes a skirt
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Posted 29 April 2014 - 01:09 PM
I have been on this forum for a while now, and I think it is time I introduce myself.
I am a costume maker living in Canada. I work at a repertory theatre as a stitcher on a tailoring team. I am proficient at sewing, but I have only recently (in the past couple of years) begun to pursue tailoring as my primary goal (my goals prior to this being about improving my sewing skills more generally).
I am very grateful that this forum exists, it is a truly amazing resource. I hope to slowly increase my involvement in the forum as I become more skilled at tailoring. And if I ever get the time to make something for myself, I will be sure to post it for help and feedback
Thank you very much to everyone who takes part in this forum!
- ladhrann likes this
Posted 30 July 2014 - 05:10 AM
I'm Suuns , 21 currently studying in a design school in Bangkok. To be honest I found this forum was because I was looking for some tutorials for jacket. And I read through all those "walk before you run" post...... The thing is, I want to major in menswear but the school is really not taking care of this area (they barely make menswear). I have no problem making shirts and trousers I just need to figure out how to do canvasing (my professors don't know how to do it at all) I made some jacket without canvasing, those were just for school project, but I really need to learn something real...so I guess I'm ready to learn how to run!
Posted 30 July 2014 - 05:19 AM
Please check out my video series on Vimeo, "The Making of a Coat". It's there to help young people like yourself learn the necessary skills to make handcraft garments.
Please share it with your friends and colleagues.
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Posted 05 August 2014 - 09:42 AM
Although I've been a member for a little time now, I'd just like to say a quick hello to all on the forum; I enjoy it very much, it's utterly informative and an exceptional way for professionals as well as connoisseurs of fine garment making from all over the world to rub shoulders, which else wouldn't be possible without this very forum. Thank you Sator!
I'd also like to say a special thanks to forum member Mr Duffy; I've had many a good afternoons watching your videos, and they're truly a benchmark in good craftsmanship. In a trade cornered from all angles by highly effective mass production, RTW and MTM and what have you, it's indeed nice to see a new generation doing things the right way with great respect for the honourable craft of true bespoke tailoring. Appreciate it very much.
Edited by ChiTownTailor, 08 August 2014 - 04:19 AM.
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Posted 12 August 2014 - 10:49 PM
Quick introduction :
I'm a 25 years old student at the Académie Internationale de Coupe de Paris, a school founded in 1830 by Ladeveze.
A former tailors and seamstress school. It has now a new system more adapted to today's industry. They use the Vauclair-Darroux system (the Ladeveze-Darroux reviewed version - I'll might post some pages soon for you to see the evolution of the system).
I was (like many others apparently) in a quest that could be called "find-secrets-from-the-great-masters-on-the-internet-and-try-to-rush-in-making-a-jacket", but, thanks to Sator, his post about walking before running and his will to encourage us to be realistic about our level I decided to start the very beginning and go back to skirt and trousers making...
So, here I am, ready to start...
Since I've been travelling from post to post already (until totally non-decent hours) I need to add :
Thank to each and everyone of you for your participation to this forum, this is a fantastic job you're making here. It is, in my opinion, very important to share every little piece of information you can to help in the transmission of this art.
Thanks to the more Advanced pros for their knowledge/time/investement and to the beginners for their will to learn and passion.
EDIT : Thanks to Sir Duffy who had the kindness to answer a mail of mine about shoulder "vees" (Yes I was totally running before walking... )...
Let's go back to my straight 1 546 397 5842nd straight stitch ;-).
Looking forward to read more
Edited by FrenchPadding, 12 August 2014 - 10:53 PM.
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Posted 24 August 2014 - 06:16 PM
Hi, I'm Faith.
The first two pieces of cloth I ever sewed together was on my Grandma's treadle machine. I was ten. From there I went on to buttons, hems, zippers, and complete garments. Aside from my time as a stay-at-home mom, (I'm still a mom, just didn't stay at home once my son was in JrHS), I taught sewing at junior college where I retired last summer.
Despite all my years of sewing, the closest I've ever come to tailoring is to take in or let out a hem and maybe TRY to alter a sleeve pattern to fit my arm. My son recently realized my frustrations with pattern alterations and, AutoCAD wizard that he is, altered a sleeve pattern to make it fuller. (something about using a stretch command to maintain scale). It was by far the easiest sleeve I've ever set, and the best fitting too! Actually he cut different sleeves behind my back and confessed after the fact. I felt like a no-good so-and-so for stubbornly refusing him for so long. He can't sew, but he knows drafting. Never underestimate the application of one skill to another, no matter how improbable it may seem.
The concept of drafting a personal pattern block never occured to me until that sleeve. Then again, with half-size patterns back when they cost 65 cents, such a thing wasn't needed for the home sewer. To help me along my way, a friend loaned me a CD containing some resources she gleaned from this forum. After the dog destroyed it, I found myself here attempting to replace it all, and signed up for an account.
With my son doing the actual drafting and daughter-in-law doing the fitting, I might end up with a skirt block, possibly more. Who knows. Maybe this will be the beginning of a new business. Faith and Family, Clothiers to the Prom Queens. (3am, can't sleep, I hope that bit of silliness doesn't come back to bite me).
If most women are not 5 feet 10 inches 120 pounds, why do these unrealistic models dominate the runways?
Posted 25 August 2014 - 02:49 AM
Hi everyone, I'm Crystal.
I am very humbled by this site, both in the vast quantity of what I don't know and also how it is a powerful tool to pass sartorial history and knowledge I live in New Zealand and there is no bespoke/couture/high-end market here; it is not an option for me to apprentice or learn first-hand (don't get me started on the headache of sourcing high-quality materials and necessary tools! International shipping is my friend). Thank you to everyone who puts so much time into the content and discussions; I am very grateful for this website, as for now it looks like I will be completely self/internet-taught.
I've been a voracious artist/crafter my entire life (most recently of the knitting variety), and hold self-expression in the highest regard. A few months ago I bought an old Bernina 830 and I've taken 4 or 5 Craftsy courses to cover techniques, which helped immensely and immediately bumped up the quality of my finished garments. Me being me, I want to elevate my finished garments to something really special and to develop my own wardrobe, which means a blending of couture and tailoring techniques (to me they are fraternal twins). I feel like I have a good handle on the general processes/techniques, and am looking forward to learning a lot more about fit and all those million subtle details that make something really spectacular.
I'm an engineer and anatomist by training, so tailoring means I get to translate my intrinsic understanding of the world into art and fashion!
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Posted 26 August 2014 - 09:41 AM
So, I've started on the path of learning by self-tuition and am IMMENSELY grateful to the professionals that are basically donating their unpaid time to bestow the wealth of knowledge that remains largely undocumented, as well as uncodified, with us at no charge but their free time and our patience.
I am still building up my books and tools, but and looking forward to sharing my progress and getting feedback.
I'm honored to be a part of this community and look forward to getting to know you all, and your work, better.
Edited by DesertElephant, 26 August 2014 - 09:44 AM.
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Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, but not express'd in fancy; rich, not gaudy; for the apparel oft proclaims the man.
-Polonius, Hamlet, Act 1, Scene 3
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