3 replies to this topic

[posaune]

I have to split the sleeve because I lack fabric. I want to flat fell (Hope this is the right expression) the seam. I have cut on a facing on both sides. I need an overlapp to close the cuff.
How can I sew it so it is nice and clean?
lg
posaune

[Kevin Koch]

This is how I do a two-piece sleeve (shaped and set in, like on a coat). I fell the seam up to the point of slit and then install a placket as usual that covers the break.

[CoronarJunkee]

I would first fell the overlap and slash the seam allowance at the end of the slit up to the seam, so i can slide the seam allowance of the undersleeve underneath the one of the top sleeve (which i'd cut back from this point).

I would slash the seam allowance of the underlap at the top of the slit so the underlap can lay flat but the seam can be felled.

Then I would either hem the underlap on the side and topstitch the top part I'd have folded in.
But this would give me a weak point where I've slashed the underlap seam allowance.

So I'd probably sew on a facing for the underlap which I'd extend a bit higher than the slit, topstitching the top part with a square or triangle or whatever shape to cover all the points that are slashed.



I hope that was a bit clear... But I don't think so.



So maybe it's clearer if I write it in german...

Übertritt in Kappnahtbreite säumen. Vorher Die Nahtzugabe des Oberärmels oberhalb des Schlitzes zurückschneiden, damit die Nahtzugabe des Unterärmels als Kappnaht darumgelegt werden kann.

Nahtzugabe des Oberärmels/Untertritts bis zum Rand der Kappnaht am Schlitzende schräg einschneiden. Einerseits die Kappnaht legen, andererseits (Oberkante Untertritt) zum Ärmel hin einfalten. Untertrittkante beliebig versäubern/ säumen, dann die umgeschlagene Oberkante durchsteppen.
Die Einschnittstelle ist hier ein Schwachpunkt.

Also würde ich eher an den Untertritt einen Beleg anstürzen, der über das Schlitzende hinausgeht. oben einschlagen und im Viereck oder beliebig übersteppen, um sowohl das Schlitzende als auch die Belegoberkante zu sichern.


Probably it's too late anyways.

How did you do it, Heidi?


Cheers from Berlin

David

[posaune]

Before cutting into the fabric I first did a sample where I used your method, David. But the weak point got me to ask here. I thought too about sewing a piece of fabric over this point. A separate underlapp has not occured to me :-(.
In the end I used Kevin's method. Worked like a charme. All is tidy and clean. It is not excatly the look I was after. But the fabric is a check so you do not see much from the optic of the felled seam like it is shown in the drawing. Thanks to both of you.
lg
heidi