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H. Huntsman coats with extra chest bulge?


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#19 murtadza

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 01:28 PM

Worse than that crap? I doubt it can exist but please ilustrate us. haha

napoli,
this forum is not meant to offences anybody,me the least.I joined to learn.Thank for the insight.

murtadza
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#20 Measure Man

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 08:44 PM

.

Edited by Measure Man, 08 February 2013 - 11:57 PM.

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#21 Schneidergott

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 02:43 AM

It is very easy to pick faults and very hard to make better!!


+1000 from me!

I think this straight and broad shoulder look is harder to achieve (and get it right) than any no pad, sloppy, overcut shoulder style that is overpraised by so many.
It's also hard to tell whether or not the man in the picture has actually such straight shoulders or if the tailor had to pad him up to make him look "tough"!

Posted Image
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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
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#22 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 06:14 AM

Read what SG is telling you, The drape is a style feature left over from the 50's.

Look at some old American B Movie films from the 50's to see the extreme style of drape.
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#23 Torry Kratch

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 08:27 AM

.....

Edited by Torry Kratch, 08 February 2013 - 07:55 PM.


#24 Measure Man

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 08:42 AM

.

Edited by Measure Man, 08 February 2013 - 11:58 PM.


#25 Torry Kratch

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 08:47 AM

.....

Edited by Torry Kratch, 08 February 2013 - 07:56 PM.


#26 Measure Man

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 08:51 AM

.

Edited by Measure Man, 08 February 2013 - 11:58 PM.


#27 gramountoto

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 05:21 PM

Oh, I did not know about the use of such a method. I thought made ​​the layout of cheap fabric sleeve and marked horizontal stripes. Thanks for the tip. And my apologies to Steven!


This is shown here too:

http://www.karlmatth...o-double-check/

And this is what SG explained to me some times ago when I asked about that:

The sleeves are cut with inlays at the crown and the hem and then basted in. I've seen the same method mentioned in my German cutting manuals, where they add a 1,5 cm additional inlay at crown and hem.
This method appears to be favoured by British tailors, especially those who outsource their work.
After the decisive fitting the sleeve is then re-cut to match the check at the fronts.

Posted Image


Edited by gramountoto, 05 February 2013 - 05:22 PM.

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#28 Naive Jr

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 07:42 PM

Right now many styles are availiable to wear, including drape. There have been many styles of drape (whatever tailors and customers could invent). If custom made by tailors (Britts call custom- bespoke, believe the French call custom- grand measure) the coat needs to be fitted as well as the stye (so, this is two types of fitting per-garment).

Drape is purposeful extra cloth that gives a "drapes" look. You can have it right in front of the armhole, center of the chest, or both or more or a anywhere you can figure out how to do it. Most drape ends at the waist, but I saw one that went to the hem, and it was a very nice coat!

Hello Esteemed Mentor - I am pleased to see you are alert and flourishing. But you do you answer the simple question: is bulge drape?
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#29 Naive Jr

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 07:44 PM

Bespoke Tailoring is an art form and each Tailor has his own idea of style!

Also we have to deal with many different figure types which can heavily influence the finished silhouette.

So I feel it is very unfair to be disrespectful to other peoples work.

It is very easy to pick faults and very hard to make better!!

It is true that faults can be found, but craftmanship is very diffiult. But I think both are necessary.
Scribimus indocti doctique poemata passim

#30 greger

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 09:57 PM

Hello Esteemed Mentor - I am pleased to see you are alert and flourishing. But you do you answer the simple question: is bulge drape?


Not sure which picture you are talking about. Some of what tailors do I don't like. But when I ask sometimes they give reasons that I like. And as in all crafts some are better than others. Some young guys like narrow legged trousers and young cutters are making them, but the young cutters are sort of reinventing the wheel because the cutters of the 60s who made these are long gone with their knowlege and answers to problems. What some people call drape today is hardly drape compare 50 years ago. There is also the American sack which is more like a potato bag. And then there is the swell coat where the chest is swelled, but not draped. On top of that is some customers lke clean fitting garments while others like sloppy. Adds to the confusion of judgeing a tailors work. On the first picture as Jukes says the bulge in front of the armhole is drape. If one were vertical and the other diagonal then it would be error. Some American tailors put in two drapes down the front of each side and the ones by the armhole lower down curved towards the waist.There were many kinds of drape I never wanted to see again. Mild drape is not so bad. Some people love drape and for them it is good. The reasons why any tailor is around is because he has a following. The white coat of the single person looks like not much canvase; in the early 1800s in the US there were lots of coats make with very little canvase for summer or hotter climates.

#31 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 08:47 AM

+1000 from me!

I think this straight and broad shoulder look is harder to achieve (and get it right) than any no pad, sloppy, overcut shoulder style that is overpraised by so many.
It's also hard to tell whether or not the man in the picture has actually such straight shoulders or if the tailor had to pad him up to make him look "tough"!

Posted Image


Is not too bad, massive shoulders with 3cm pads, plenty of ease in the sleeve. Maybe not easy to tailor. In the 30thies the shoulders were even straigther.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#32 napoli

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 11:30 AM

+1000 from me!

I think this straight and broad shoulder look is harder to achieve (and get it right) than any no pad, sloppy, overcut shoulder style that is overpraised by so many.
It's also hard to tell whether or not the man in the picture has actually such straight shoulders or if the tailor had to pad him up to make him look "tough"!

Posted Image



He has different shoulders, just google images president Zapatero. Worsts suits ever, almost all by the so called best tailors of the world from Madrid, I got a war with those pretentious ignorants on several newspapers.

Here I go, worst president ever and worst tailors ever ,two for the price of one.2500 euros for that, jjajaja

http://www.google.es...ZpAwpzQBa6-gbAF

Edited by napoli, 06 February 2013 - 12:13 PM.


#33 napoli

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 11:36 AM

Bespoke Tailoring is an art form and each Tailor has his own idea of style!

Also we have to deal with many different figure types which can heavily influence the finished silhouette.

So I feel it is very unfair to be disrespectful to other peoples work.

It is very easy to pick faults and very hard to make better!!



When those " tailors " I critique disrespect the work of others saying on the tv and economical press, got several interviews to those un-tailors who dare to say; We are better than Savile Row or Naples ( that would incluide friends of mine who might be THE BEST around and won´t ever dare to say that pretentious thing) ( The ones who did that and other worst crap) , and argue this childish thing;

Una opinión que comparte el vicepresidente de la Asociación de Sastres Españoles, Manuel Calvo de Mora, "estamos por encima de los italianos, hemos visto el trabajo de Rubinacci y el de los españoles es mejor. Estamos a la par con algunos de Savile Row".

We have seen one piece of each ( An Anderson, not Anderson & Shepard ), who is less than a 4th file tailor or Luca Rubinacci ,the less elegant and most circus looking whose jackets are even worse than this )

Those DO NOT DESERVE any respect. Got it or need a replay?

If you don´t know what I was talking about please don´t do the ridicule unless you want to be another pretentious with 0 humildty . PERIOD. :Black Eye: NEED OTHER EXPLAIN?

http://img01.lavangu...188_960_639.jpg

Sorry dear good folks of the forum but this **** pissed me off. How can I put on the ignore list if exist this " pro " member?

Now TAKE your owned with this pictures of the same tailor " art " ;

Posted Image

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And finally this " shirt " done for the " best " shirtmaker of Madrid,that I have sent to the Kiton and Borrelli master tailors while I interviewed them and replied, if any of our students would ever did such an aberration would be kicked out asap.

Alexander Kabbaz says on a video I posted today, a bad shirt is fault of the shirtmaker, not of the client.

Need more ?

Posted Image

Edited by napoli, 06 February 2013 - 01:31 PM.


#34 napoli

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 12:39 PM

Not quite in the topic, but in a context...

It looks like Steven does not care about the coincidence of rapport cells on panels and the sleeves.
If this was not a high standard of Savile Row ... :Thinking:
Posted ImagePosted Image

Maybe I will not do better than Steven jacket, but it is "cut" my eye.

link



Savile Row as well as Jermyn Street shirtmakers are like Mercedes Benz nowadays, horrible designs, hyped priced and living out of past glory.

On this thread is the living proof ( letīs say the evidence of the crime ) hahaa :clapping:

#35 greger

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 01:02 PM

Savile Row as well as Jermyn Street shirtmakers are like Mercedes Benz nowadays, horrible designs, hyped priced and living out of past glory.

On this thread is the living proof ( letīs say the evidence of the crime ) hahaa :clapping:



Where is the proof? The coats are not finished nor on the customer, so there is no way to judge.

#36 napoli

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 01:22 PM

Where is the proof? The coats are not finished nor on the customer, so there is no way to judge.



The sleeves are attached already with poor or none pattern matching. I doubt they will demount and mount again them to fix it, so that part is finished omho




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