11 replies to this topic

[daristi]

making flaps

you take a piece of sandpaper (emery cloth), not too fine.

fold in half
cut it into shape

place the fabric and lining in the mold with the lining up
stitching around and you will see that the fabric has some space relative to the lining

rotate the mold to the other flap, exactly as the first

why only flaps and no cuffs or collars?

daristi

keep it simple

[amateursarto]

Daristi
I think that this is brilliant. I will try this out today. Thanks for the tip. I don't see why this wouldn't work with a shirt collar with no collar stays, although with a little more work, a collar with stays could be made as well.

Pete

[Martin Stall]

It depends on the results you're after. The method works, but it's a shortcut and won't give the same results as hand-basted.

[amateursarto]

Martin,
What are the differences in results between this method and hand basted? Thanks

Pete

[Martin Stall]

Fair question. You obviously get more control over your work if you do it by hand. That allows you to give better shape to follow the rounding of the body, as well as the points/corners. With sandpaper, space in top cloth gets distributed more or less evenly all over.

In fact, the shortcut needs a few more tricks in manipulating the cloth to get it right. I've tried it on cheaper work and yes, it works. In the end it's hardly any won time though, so might as well spend the extra 30% of time and do it right, in my opinion.

[amateursarto]

Thanks for the answer, Martin.

[Martin Stall]

You're very welcome.

[Brave Tailor]

May be some ideas here, I think it can be made by self.

[greger]

Machinery replaces skill and, then it becomes- if the machine can't do it you can't do it.

[Brave Tailor]

Machinery replaces skill and, then it becomes- if the machine can't do it you can't do it.

Agree! No one mashine can do some, that is well sence of womth of maitre's hands and breath. But you know many men can not spent 5000USD for suit, but they also have "unstandart" body and need our help. So in order to make it easier and cheaper we can use some devises, that help us have less routine. RTW is agressive but can not do what we do.

[daristi]

Bravo brave tailor


making flaps for stripe fabric

the stripe fabric destined for flaps is cut exactly -
with the correct inclination and at least one additional stripe
the correct inclination is indicated by the model-maker

place the fabric under the dart stripe on stripe and sign off

if the flap must end 1.5 cm past the dart, then we put on our mold at 1.5 cm a sign
by stitching two signs come together

see : making flaps

if the flaps are not in line with the front, please check the seams of each front from bottom to top are ironed

daristi

keep it simpel

is there anyone who is interested in making flaps for diamonds fabric ?

[Brave Tailor]

Bravo brave tailor


making flaps for stripe fabric

the stripe fabric destined for flaps is cut exactly -
with the correct inclination and at least one additional stripe
the correct inclination is indicated by the model-maker

place the fabric under the dart stripe on stripe and sign off

if the flap must end 1.5 cm past the dart, then we put on our mold at 1.5 cm a sign
by stitching two signs come together

see : making flaps

if the flaps are not in line with the front, please check the seams of each front from bottom to top are ironed

daristi

keep it simpel

is there anyone who is interested in making flaps for diamonds fabric ?

Hi! Bravo daristi. Next time if I need make flaps, I'll take a plane BOEING sort of charter straight to your plant! And "keep it simpel".